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Squeaky distributor
Hi guys, My 87 carrera has developed a faint squeak from the motor bay and in the cabin. I´ve checked the alternator and fan and belt. They all seem to be fine and there is no visible wear/belt slack/ or rubbing of the fan blades. I have a sneaking suspicion that its the dizzy cap and have read that it requires lubrication at intervals. Before I start taking it apart is there anyone who can point me in the right direction in regards to what I sould be using as a lubricant and where exactly I should should put it (in the distributor cap
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I've read the same thing, even read 3 in 1 oil.
Next time I go in there I think I'll try a few drops of synthetic oil, for no other reason than it's what I used on my turntable (home stereo). On the turntable using 3 in 1 oil is a no no, because it thickens up and collects dust. Same thinking applies to the distributor, maybe not. If you have bad bushings no amount of oil will help. I keep reading that people send their distributor to a guy in Detroit for rebuild. Eliminating vacuum on distributor Quote:
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1977 911S Targa 2.7L (CIS) Silver/Black 2012 Infiniti G37X Coupe (AWD) 3.7L Black on Black 1989 modified Scat II HP Hovercraft George, Architect Last edited by kach22i; 04-27-2010 at 08:31 AM.. |
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The distributor is okay. Its just the faint squeak that I think is coming from it. I´ve read on here that others have had a similar problem. I know that the felt piece no longer exists in some distributors and our host sells bosch grease but many have said that a bit of motor oil does the same job. If an 87 dizzy needs a bit of oil then which one and where to apply it?
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abides.
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I use motor oil. Applying dielectric grease to the felt pad would do nothing, since the grease wouldn't flow down into the bushings.
Just pull the distributor and see where the squeak is originating. Be sure to set the rotor to TDC beforehand so you can easily find the proper orientation when you go to reinstall. Edit: Also, you can still find good used distributors for much less than what most places would charge to re-bush your distributor. $550 is pretty outrageous for rebuilding a 3.2 dizzy, especially since there isn't a real advance mechanism to calibrate.
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Graham 1984 Carrera Targa Last edited by gtc; 04-27-2010 at 07:31 AM.. |
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Thanks I´ll try that
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Come on, you drive a Porsche, you can afford it.
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1977 911S Targa 2.7L (CIS) Silver/Black 2012 Infiniti G37X Coupe (AWD) 3.7L Black on Black 1989 modified Scat II HP Hovercraft George, Architect |
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Just in case anybody is thinking of rebuilding a distributor I found this quite interesting link while researching my own. Its an early model but the steps I found were clear and interesting
Bosch 010 Distributor Rebuild |
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[Originally Posted by gtc
$550 is pretty outrageous for rebuilding a 3.2 dizzy.] Really? Depends on the total job... Alittle pricey if you have had nothing else done. perhaps. on the other hand... its its part of a larger project than not at all outragous. Also, Jerry Woods and Steve Weiner are charging 250-300 just for the recurve (no rebuild)... you wouldnt spend an extra $250 for another 100k miles of trouble free service? wow... Example, Youll spend 5-6k on PMO ITB's/ECU/Tuning/Dyno and youll complaining about $550... put another way... you will leave 40% of your performance on the table for 10% additional fee? The $550 rebuild and recurve produced more throttle response on my 83 than the PMO's did. its just a fact. Cant speak to the 3.2. so sorry I disagree. I think it depends. Would I spend $550 due to a squeak? probably not. I'll break out the 3 in 1 oil like others...
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83 SC Targa -- 3.2SS, GT2-108 Dougherty Cams, 9.5:1 JE Pistons, Supertec Studs, PMO ITB's, MS2 EFI, SSI's, Recurved Dizzy, MSD, Backdated Dansk Sport Stainless 2 in 1 out, Elephant Polybronze, Turbo Tie Rods, Bilstein HD's, Hollow 21-27 TBs, Optima Redtop 34R, Griffiths-ZIMS AC, Seine Shifter, Elephant Racing Oil Cooling. Last edited by brads911sc; 04-28-2010 at 08:10 AM.. |
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abides.
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Brad, remember there is no advance mechanism to recurve on a 3.2 distributor. Advance timing is all done by the Motronic. The 3.2 does have flyweights, but they really just serve to get the rotor in the general vicinity of the proper plug.
I completely agree with you when we're talking about everything through '83. But to only disassemble and replace a couple of bushings, I think $550 is excessive. Shoot.... I'd change jobs if there were steady work at that price.
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Graham 1984 Carrera Targa |
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Agree. My only experience is through 83...
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83 SC Targa -- 3.2SS, GT2-108 Dougherty Cams, 9.5:1 JE Pistons, Supertec Studs, PMO ITB's, MS2 EFI, SSI's, Recurved Dizzy, MSD, Backdated Dansk Sport Stainless 2 in 1 out, Elephant Polybronze, Turbo Tie Rods, Bilstein HD's, Hollow 21-27 TBs, Optima Redtop 34R, Griffiths-ZIMS AC, Seine Shifter, Elephant Racing Oil Cooling. |
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Every 911 SC and 3.2 owner should check their distributor for radial play. Take the cap off, and the rotor, and try to wiggle the distributor shaft with your hand. If there is play, you need to start planning on having the bushings replaced soon. When the rotor hits the inside of the cap, your rotor will shatter. You will get raw gas flowing into the cat, turning it cherry red, lots of smoke, and write off the cat. It's not fun, very expensive, and entirely avoidable.
Most guys drop a few drops of motor oil on the felt. If no felt, then inside the distributor shaft so the oil drips down on to the bushings. Don't get any grease or oil on the rotor or distributor cap. |
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AutoBahned
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there is a real nice thread on periodic re-lubing of the distributor - it says that oil thru the felt is not adequate long term
IIRC, it is something that Warren (Early911Sman ?? was that his posting name??) put up ... |
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Ah...that's a nice thread Randy. Makes me sad that both the little spec books and Early S Man updates are both out of print.........
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