Where To Jack Rear To Install Engine?
 

Guys have read all the old posts but couldn't find the answer.

What method do you guys use to raise the back high enough (24" from floor to bottom of torsion tubes) to slide the engine in or out. Want to raise the car off the engine so it can clear the bumper. BTW, cant use the side jack holes as I have no access to them. My 4 ton low profile floor jack raises only up to 18". Thanks for help.

I think most lift the rear end first, using a point just forward of the engine sump plate with a block of wood as the jack point. This "has been debated" on wether or not it is Porsche approved. I do it all the time with no problem. Some would shudder at the thought.

Then you LOWER the engine, after you raise the car.

If its absolutely neccesary to do it your way you may be able to rig a cross brace on the rear engine mounts and use a engine hoist to lift the car.

The X's are the recomended jack points

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1273195327.jpg

Also removeing the rear valance and or bumper will make it easier.

-Andy

Thanks. Say the engine is out of the car and you cant use it to lift the car. Where do you lift it then to get the proper height? Maybe those "X" marks(kind of a narrow portion of the frame close to the oil lines) that are closest to the rear?

Either get a jack that goes higher, or stack some 2x6/4x4 on the jack pad to make up the difference.
Maybe then you can use the side jack pads and do one side at a time...a couple of times.

Get a 5 foot piece of 4X4 and put it just forward of the two X's marked "D", Put the jack pad in the center of the 4X4. Be carefull not to crush any seams or oil lines.

If you go too high in the back you will scrape the front lip/spoiler.

I would securely block the front wheels, and look to the torsion tube area or the rear of the floorpan with a 2x4 for the initial lift, as already suggested. You can place jacks at each end of the torsion tubes.

Use a pair of 6 ton floorjacks and stacks of wood to progressively raise the car higher, going side to side. The engine should clear the rear valance, then you can lower the car side to side, reversing the process. At the final step, raise the front of the car on jackstands so the car is level, then raise the engine into the car.

There was a thread called supporting engine at removal or something like that. Many many many ways of doing the engine drop and install were covered, including one using engine hoists that Mitch Leland showed. You might consider his method also, which once you get past the fabrication, would be the quikest and safest way.

Agreed. Get the ars up enough to then get the floor jack\4x4 across the D line. Lifting from anywhere further back from this area will make it tough to get high enough with most floor jacks.

I used the typical rear torsion tube\support mechanism when working on the car, but at the point of trying to roll the motor or out I would use the 'D' point just for that period of time (you won't believe how high the back end has to be in the air).

I also drove my car up on 2x6's to give a little bit of breathing room for the front sproiler.


Todd

Hi

Could you not run the car up on ramps assuming the wheels are still on. Standard car ramps plus wheels should give you the height.

Barry

The "D" point looks like the very most rear of the floor pan. That correct? I can put a piece of wood across. Just worried about the floor pan crushing. Anyone ever take any pics?

The 4X4 should extend out each side of the vehicle a few inches. I used a router to create a cutout for the seams ( where the panels join each other) to run thru so you dont crush them.

Take your time "fitting" the 4x4 you are using for the lift. I had to cut and shape it a bit to fit to the bottom of the car.

Never seen this done.

to run a 911 up on a ramp it would have to be very long and start out gradually. The ramps you buy at the parts store are too tall to just drive onto. Also when you jack the rear of the car the front wheels will be pulled backward by the jack and they could roll off the ramps. not a good thing.

i don't block the front wheels when I lift the rear of the car until AFTER the car is up high enough and the rear end is secured on stands.

A question to the OP: why don't you have access to the side emergency jack receptacles?

Boxed rockers.

Use 4-5 ton jack stands under the T-bar covers because they have a wider base than 2-3 tons.
To prevent damage to the front spoiler when lifting the rear, put some 2x6” boards under the front wheels and then put large wedges (Choke blocks) under the front wheels to prevent rolling before you lift.
A full tank will keep the front down. I remove the muffler but not the bumper.
Pre-lift the car a little at a time; place the wide-base stands under the T-bar covers.
Heights required: 32.5" from floor to underside of bumper will clear the engine to be rolled out on the floor jack. To obtain 32.5", I found that the T-bar covers would be 23.5" off the ground resting on the 5-ton jacks: VERY SOLID.
Center the large floor jack on the engine seam; the "Sweet spot" for balance is in front of the sump plate, NOT ON IT!
I made a plate from ¾” plywood with cutouts to support/balance the engine/transmission on the jack; you can make one or buy the steel plate from PP for this.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1273254203.jpg

I realize that you're asking about lifting the body w/out the engine, but it seems clear that you need to use a hard jacking point such as the rear firewall/torsion tube/ floorpan area, and it's just a matter of spreading the load out with a jig or support beam of some sort.

The next question should be about stability, how high, etc so here's a breadcrumb trail to more threads on the process of dropping the engine, which is almost the reverse of what you're doing.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/530236-dropping-motor-question.html

In post #3 I provide yet more links to read.