Switching to Brad Penn causing my bad leak?
 

I just switched from Royal Purple full synthetic 20/50 to Brad Penn last Sunday, and now my car is leaking oil like I've never seen. I have one of the late model 83 SC engines with a 5R case, where there is no sump plate and just a long seam down the middle. It's leaking at the lowest point of the seam, to the point where every time I look underneath the car there's a drop of oil ready to fall. There are routinely stains on the ground about the size of a drink coaster now as well.<p>Anyone know what could be going on here? I've always heard of full synthetic causing leaks, but I didn't have any noticeable leaking with the Royal Purple--and certainly not like this. I know everyone here loves Brad Penn, but I can't reap any benefits of it if I can't even keep it in my car. Thanks for any advice.

FWIW my understanding isn't that synthetics 'cause' leaks, but they do tend to creep through smaller gaps than dino's will. maybe a change back to a high grade dino?

Is the Brad Penn oil also 20/50? Changing weight/viscosity may also result in "leaks" - as in, you may already have had a compromised part or fuel line, and the new oil leaks through them when the old oil didn't.

Strangely, I switched from Mobil1 to Brad Penn and noticed a definite increase in leaks. I have since switched to Valvoline Racing due to the difficulty in getting Brad Penn and the leaks have subsided. Anecdotal for sure, but that's what I experienced.

Please do not post anymore negative messages about the almighty "Brad Penn" here... since most people here worship this oil all of these leak issues must be YOU...

Not to mention the smoking issue.

i keep hearing that when people switch to another oil, they observe increased leaks...appears to be especially true of 74-89. i have a friend who recently switched from Castrol GTX (high mileage) to Valvoline 1 for increased zinc protection and got increased leakage to boot!!!!

I too switched from Castrol GTX to Brad Penn on my 3.6 transplant motor and found a leak! However, the leak was coming out of the innards of the engine mounted oil cooler(yes I added one to the 964 3.6), but no other leaks. (by the way, have checked, and leak is definitely not from the thermostat or oil pressure sender but the cooling channels in the cooler)) I obviously had an existing pinhole in the cooler, and when I put Brad Penn in it, the Brad Penn did such a good job of cleaning out any debris in the engine, that it exposed a pin hole in the cooler that had been plugged by gunk! The cooler only drips a drop about every 8 or 10 minutes while the engine is idling. I have acquired a new cooler and will replace it soon, but I will be staying with Brad Penn, as it sure has demonstrated it's cleaning ability!

Brad Penn is a high grade dino oil, it isn't a synthetic.

Incorrect, Brad Penn is "part synthetic". 80% Dino 20% synthetic

Read the bottle! "Partial Synthetic"

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1273250198.jpg

LOL. I find it hilarous how people blindly follow the Brad Penn gospel and how everyone that has any issues after switching is doing something incorrect....

I use Kendall GT1 20w50. no issues.

Tried BP 20W50, no more leaks but car ran 20% higher temp than it did with M1. Tried Redline Racing 50W, back to lower temps. Final choice was M1 20W50 VTwin, low temps, high ZDDP, good detergent level.

As long as we're bashing BP: I also noticed slower cranking speeds and for longer; same 20/50 as the M1 V-Twin I was running, but thicker still. Always wondered how well it was circulating at startup.

How ironic! Kendall oil sold off their high performance racing oil (the old "green oil") division to a new company with a new name. Ya, you guessed it Brad Penn!

Kendall is now made by Conoco/Phillips

hey Brad, where are you getting that Kendall GT1????

It is ironic... but the Conoco made GT1 is great oil... it has all the good stuff... ill leave it at that...

Jones Oil. Right off I45N.

No one is bashing BP. There are 10 or so GREAT oils, all with the right stuff... BP is a great oil.. no one has said its not... But there is more to oil than ZDDP. If someone runs higher temps or has leaks that is also a factor... People post their experiences... its not all great with BP... No one is claiming that they have leaks or increased temps with conoco made GT1. period. and it has the right amount of the good stuff. period. and its endorsed by people like Peter Z.

people should stop drinking the koolaide and make their own decision...

I am just going to replace the Brad Penn that leaks out with the new Mobil 1 0w50 race oil that's suppose to come out this month. High ZDDP, made for flat tappets, 0w cold flow, it looks like a good choice.

synthetic always going to leak more than dyno

Great idea, but dig deep in your wallet! Price will be north of $10 a quart and as it says on the bottle "not for street use". The reason is their racing oil, and most racing oils, have a much less robust detergent package than "street oils". Recommended change intervals on true racing oils is 2000 miles or less when used in a "street car". (race folks change after every race) So could be a little pricey if used on a regular basis!

Which is why my situation--going from Royal Purple full synthetic to Brad Penn "mostly dino"--baffles me. When I first put the Royal Purple in, the car had been on Castrol GTX for over 20 years (according to the PO), so I knew I was taking a HUGE risk going to full synthetic. But it never had an oil leak that actually reached the floor. There was slight weeping at the case seam, but nothing like what is going on now that I switched to Brad Penn. I leave a little stain everywhere I park now. It's frustrating to say the least.

I was using Castrol GTX 20-50. Seemed to be a good oil, but I did have a couple small leaks. Drank some Koolaid, (compliments of this forum) and tried BP 20-50 ($7.50/Qt.) No leaks, no temp increase, no turn over issues, and no oil pressure issues. Having read several threads regarding oil changes, I don't plan on changing the oil again until I hit 7 or 8K on this load, so the $ for the 11.5 qts is not that big a deal. Seems to be working fine!

$7.50 a qt. seems high. I picked up a case for $54.00/$4.50 a qt. at a local dirt track race shop. I am drinking the green Kool-Aid as well ;)