Kaminari Targa top Install

[Poohsan]

I am posting the install of a Kaminari Targa top on my 1981sc Targa. I tried my best to capture the install step-by-step.
I previously posted about this top in this thread: It¡Çs here! ¡Ä My new Kaminari Targa top skin.

Images of the top as it arrived from the factory.








Record images of the original top. You will need record images to remind you how to reassemble the seal and other hardware. These images are also to remind yourself why you put your self though the pain of the rebuild.

[Poohsan]

The first major part of this process is to remove the vinyl skin and the aluminum plates from the frame.

1. Loosen the 4 screws that attach the side seals to the frame. These screws do not need to be removed from the rubber. Just loosen them until the seal is no longer attached to the frame. (If do remove the screws it will only make it harder to reattach the seals at the end of the project as the washers inside the rubber are difficult to realign with the screw holes.)



2. Side seal removed. Note that the rubber at the end of the side seal stayed with the top. The side seal and the end piece are glued together with weather strip adhesive. You will need to re-glue them at re-assembly.



3. Remove the 5 screws and the rain gutters from the frame. Note that there will be a long bead of grey putty under the rails.



4. Pull back the frame to expose the top clips. Remove all 8 of the clips. Each clip has 2 screws.

[Poohsan]

5. Remove the 2 screws and the metal plates that retain the rubber ends of the side seals.



6. Remove the rubber end piece.

7. Remove the 2 screws from the upholstered trip on the frame. You will need to do this to remove the head liner.



8. Remove head liner. Note all of the deteriorating foam under the head liner.



9. Image of the foam dust.

[Poohsan]

10. Pull back the edges of the vinyl top and pull it way from the frame.



11. Remove the rivets holding the aluminum plates to the frame. I used a flat head screw driver and a hammer to scrape the mushroomed heads off of the rivets. Next knocked the rivets out using an awl and a hammer.



12. Remove the aluminum plates and the vinyl from the frame.



13. Here is the frame after removing everything.

[Poohsan]

The second major part of this process is clean and redress the frame.

14. Use adhesive remover to remove the glue used to hold the vinyl and the headliner to the frame.



15. Wash the adhesive remover from the frame; I used Simple Green and water.

[Poohsan]

16. Next I used this opportunity to strip and repaint one of the rain gutters.

Note: The coating on the rain gutter is nearly impossible to get off. Some of it was flaking so I assumed that it would be easy to remove. I was wrong. In the end I used a utility knife to scrap the remaining coating off and sanded the rail to prep it for paint. Do not attempt to sand blast the coating off of this part. The sand bounces off of the coating and attacks any exposed aluminum.



17. Masked and touched up the frame with lacquer paint.



18. Frame on car with no skin.



19. Test fit of frame in fiber glass skin.

[Poohsan]

The following step was unnecessary as I decided to install a headliner.

20. Masked and painted the bottom of the Targa skin.



21. After painting the bottom of the fiberglass skin I set it on the car to evaluate the way it would look from inside. I did not like the look of the raw fiberglass. I decided to install a headliner to cover the bottom of the skin.

[Poohsan]

The third major part of this process is to create your headliner.

22. (Not shown), I used large piece of paper to create a pattern for my headliner. I taped the paper into place on the underside of the top and used a pencil to make a tracing. I cut out the traced shape and used it as a guide to cut the foam.

23. To create the headliner I used 2mm foam under a black vinyl. This was to help deaden sound and as a substrate to wrap the vinyl around.



24. I doubled up the edges of the foam to create a better seal with the weather strips around the window frame and the Targa bar. (Note this was only marginally successful)



25. The raw vinyl from Joann Fabrics. Note: Joann Fabrics carries a good selection of vinyl at prices less expensive that other places.



26. Test fit of foam substrate between frame and fiberglass skin. The foam does not elevate the frame away from the skin. The frame rest on the two structural ribs on either sides of the skin.

[Poohsan]

27. Tracing the outline of the foam onto the vinyl.



28. Used rubber cement to laminate the foam to the vinyl.



29. Trimming the vinyl. I mad sure that the vinyl did not overlap. I did not want to add more thickness to the edge of the headliner.



30. Again I used rubber cement to laminate the vinyl to the foam.



31. Used clamps and wood to provide pressure to the laminated parts.



32. Finished headliner.

[Poohsan]

The fourth major part of this process is to test fit the top and mark the holes to be drilled.

33. Spent a lot of time test fitting and aligning the skin on the frame while the frame was on the car. (Not shown)

34. When I was satisfied with the location of the top on the car I marked the location of the holes to be drilled. I drilled the holes at the front of the frame first. I used small screws to temporarily hold the frame in place while I drilled the remaining holes.

[Poohsan]

35. The fiberglass skin is over sized with extra material where the rain rails attach. This material will need to be removed.
Place the rails in location over the skin and use a white pencil to trace its edge on the fiberglass skin. This will be your cut line.



36. (Not shown) Use a grinder to remove the excess fiberglass.

37. I used smaller screw to temporarily hold the rain rails in place for a test fitting.



38. I used weather strip adhesive to glue the leading edge of the headliner down. Note: I left the clamps in place to help hold the leading edge of the held liner while I flipped it over to apply headliner adhesive.



39. Next I masked all of the areas that I did not want to get headliner adhesive on.



40. Applied 3 coats of headliner adhesive.



41. Flipped the headliner over and pressed it into place.

[Poohsan]

42. (Not shown) Place a bead of silicone on the edge of the fiberglass before attaching the rail

43. Use the provided screws to secure the rails and frame to the fiberglass skin.



44. Here is the rail attached from the top.



The fifth major part of this process is to test reattach all of the seals and rubber you removed in the first stage of the project.

45. (Not shown) Reattach the side seals to the frame.

46. (Not shown) Test fit the top again to figure out the spacing for the front and back of the top.

47. (Not shown) Drill holes and use the provided screws to attach the brackets to the frame.

48. Use weather strip adhesive to glue the front rubber pieces onto the frame.



49. Use weather strip adhesive to glue the back rubber pieces onto the frame.



50. (Not shown) Screw the metal plates back on the frame.

51. (Not shown) Test fit the top on the car and re-adjust the side seals to the windows.

52. Done.

[Poohsan]

Knowing what I know now, I would have probably sent my old top out to be rebuilt. This project ate up a lot of time; several days and evenings. I will need to live with the top for a while to decide if it was worth the effort and money.

I took the Porsche for a test run with the Kaminari Targa top on. Over 50 mph there was a lot of air coming in from the front of the top. The air leak could be because the front seal is old and flattened out from age. I will need to adjust the brackets holding the skin to the front of the frame to see if I can stop the air flow. If not I will most likely add a piece of weather stripping under the front edge of the top.

I hope this Topic helps someone else on the board.

Arron

[zrdstr3]

Very helpful, you have convinced me to send my top for a rebuild. Your headliner job was nice.

[paddock jones]

Very helpful and nice job.

[JP911]

The air leaks are actually WORSE with a new windshield frame seal as it tends to push the roof up. Where you're likely getting wind noise is on the corners where the side seals meet the windshield frame and roof. I replaced all of my targa seals and found the front corners to be the most difficult to get right. To be honest, I never did get things right and just ended up selling the targa for a coupe.

[CurtEgerer]

Unbelievably thorough write-up. Nice work!

[Joeaksa]

Agree, excellent write up.

Sorry to hear that you could not get it the way you wanted it but like the others wonder if better sealing could have corrected this?

Joe A

[Poohsan]

I don't think better improving the way the seals meat the roof would help. The Kaminari top lacks proper shape and structure. The front and back edges just don't seal. The shape of the top is just not correct and the corners do not match the seals. The top needs more structure in the fiberglass skin. It lacks structural ribs. A 2 part construction that is bonded together would be best. Also in my opinion the manufacture trims the tops to short there is not enough overlap of the Kaminari top and the seals. Adding ¼ inch or more to the front and back would help a lot.

[JMPRO]

Some one needs to let Kaminari know that the clips as shown in the fourth picture are not as they were designed. The slotted holes and the round holes should be reversed. The slotted holes are for additional adjustment of the top after installation for a perfect fit.