Batt. terminal lugs - getting them tight
 

may be a dumb question, but I have to ask.

I found that my battery cable lugs came loose on the battery.
(autocraft Titanium international)

Are there any techniques for tightening the cable terminals without welding my wrench to the body?

The cables are short and the batt terminals are on the fender side (as opposed to the fuel tank side of the trunk), so there's little room to move and I hate having to reach in at the only available angle. Access to the other side of the "carriage" like bolt is limited by the plastic cover over the battery cell ports. The terminals themselves are tapered so this may encourage the lug to slip 'up'.

Ultimately, if I ever getting around to doing an A/C delete, I may just move it to the smugglers box, but for now, is there a better way (new cable lugs perhaps)?

Is there a battery made with the terminal on the other side? (I didn't look)

Thanks

It is a factory style top post, correct? (Maybe post a pic for us to see what you see.)

If so, I have the same style. I found that using a 13mm "stubby" box end works for me. It has offset ends as well.

I have used a 1/4 inch ratchet with a short 13mm socket at other times.

I installed a cheap battery cut-off switch recently and that helped in moving the connection away from the fender side. Once I clamped it to the battery terminal Idon't need to mess with that to disconnect power.

Disconnect the negative (ground) cable to the battery. Now you can tighten the positive, and if the wrench shorts to ground it won't matter, no current path back to the battery because the negative cable is disconnected. Then connect the negative terminal, and it again won't matter if the wrench contacts the chasis while touching the negative terminal, because the voltage potential is zero.

When having my battery drain problems recently I was disconnecting the cables frequently so I got lots of time to practice. The cut-off switch made it much easier.

I found that LIGHTLY tapping the battery clamps down on the battery terminals with a piece of wood helped get a tight fit. Some clamps are tapered to mate up with battery terminals so check to see that you have them in the correct orientation.

Wayne, yes, it's a top-post type - I'll throw a pic up tomorrow. Maybe I get one of my offset cut down in length, just concerned about decreased grip/leverage.

dad11 - that's exactly what I've been doing (neg, then pos). I've popped them off to do work and to winter trickle charge, and replaced them like that - this time they came off during a start-up attempt. Just bugged me why they didn't stay on - but that is a good method for order. albeit extra work but safer.

Wayne - the taper is bottom up (axial?). Did you mean like eliptically/oval shaped (keyed)? I had tapped them with a wooden screw driver (handle) - maybe I was too light. clamps are older/original, maybe weak and stretching - not enough room for rotation/positioning.

I'll repeat with both of your tips and check once in a while - and start on the ac delete/battery move to the box.

Thanks much for the quick feedback guys.

the key to getting them tight is what Oh Haha said, you need to get them pushed down a ways on the battery terminals. I use some taps from a rubber mallet. If they aren't pushed down, you can tighten the hell out of the nut but it can still come off.

How about disconnect the negative cable that is bolted to the fender and then go at the connections on the terminal? Then reconnect the negative cable to the fender.

Pics as requested
 

schumicat: that makes complete sense - I'll open up the clamps more too.

Rot 911: great idea but I'm afraid the fender body bolt is blocked by the battery.

Thanks for the info on what should be a basic skill I should have by now.

Pics as requested/promised...
Lugs were loosened up btw in photo.
first an angle shot.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275006202.jpg

next a top down view.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275006236.jpg

Holy cow that is one big battery!!! I see the problem now, though.

here's some pics of mine. (sorry about the crappy pics)http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275012879.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275012935.jpg

LOL - maybe I should get a smaller one. Car is almost 3 yrs old to me - that's the batt the PO had in it. - Man I could stand in the space you have - well, almost.

pics weren't crappy at all! A big help.

Thanks Wayne.

Sometimes you have to open the clamps up enough to get a small file in there, and file away the material on the jaws, so that they can close up enough to clamp the battery post.

And sometimes you have to find/make a special tool. I don't care how many you have, there's always another.

I was so worried about the positive terminal being so close to the fender wall, that i stuck a rubber matt on the surface with double sided tape.

Any reason why no one replaces the battery with the terminals on the opposite side. Bringing the terminals now closer to the tank.
All u need is to replace the grounding lead with a slightly longer one.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275020635.jpg

hold on, someone said "special tool" i.e.: custom made. do tell!

I use two small screwdrivers in the opposide sides of the jaws, and pull them apart, then a small regular flat file will enlarge the gap enough to give the clamps more space to clamp on the battery post. This is especially useful if you've buggered up the posts and need to smooth them with sandpaper for better contact.....

Whos stupid idea was it to design it so the terminals were so close to the fender wall anyways? Man, that makes it hard as h3ll if you have to jump start the car... good luck getting cables firmly places on that positive terminal!

Yeah that is a big battery. All of the Carreras came with those huge batteries. Only difference is that the terminals are on the other side of the battery. Your previous owner obviously got the wrong battery. You can go with a much smaller battery with the terminals on the correct side and save some weight in the bargain.

The PO did not buy the wrong battery.

There are two acceptable batteries for this car.

The Group 48 and the Group 49.

The battery in there is a Group 49. There are acually two bold holes in the tray so that you can use either battery.

You can switch to the Gp 48 but the positive cable will be in the same location.

Look at the 35R Optima... Its cables are in the middle of the battery not over against the firewall..

My old, large battery had the terminals on the other side of the battery and not up against the fender. But, like you suggest, I swapped it out for the Optima. Just went outside and took a picture of it (drove the 911 to work today). I use the extras space to store a small air compressor and a quart of oil.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275061792.jpg

Finally got some 'quality time' in -
I spread the cable clamps and seated them with a 1.5 inch (?) pvc drain pipe (the new tool?) with a rubber mallet - and got them down below the top of each batt' post (>1.8"). I had to pull/tip the battery toward the fuel tank (with one hand on the battery carrying handle) for a better angle of attack while I tightened the 1/2 inch nuts with an offset box end. (Pos, then Neg)

I really appreciate the insight - and while it wasn't my intention to restart a "best type of battery" thread ('cause I know there are a bunch here already) - the info you all provided gave me lots to think about regarding the best 'form-factor'.

This is all good comprehensive info to help me when I go forward with a replacement (considering eventual relo to the smugglers box, or even if I don't).

My shopping list will include : smaller batt with posts 'inside' if possible, longer gnd cable, and a cutoff sw

Nice setup Kurt!

Big BOLD holes! No whimpy holes. Mine has bolt holes... :)

I have the Optima. Terminals are not against the fender. My mechanical abilities, however, are such that I STILL had fireworks.