Engine back in after being out for a year....won't start
 

Hi all,

So, I finally got the engine back in my car a couple weeks ago. I'm finally at the point of starting it and she won't fire. I turn the key and the fuel pump hums, and the the starter cranks the engine over, but it won't fire.

I figure I need to work my way through a checklist of things that could be wrong. I'm kind of looking for some guidance and maybe some suggestions on order. I figured I'd start with ignition.

A bit of background. I had the engine out to do some rust repairs. While out I did some minor work on the engine (replaced thermostat, and oil cooler, fan).

Thanks for any advice.

Is this the CIS T?

Spark, Fuel, Compression and you're off and running...........

egads. 10% ethanol gas sitting for a year. In a CIS car. All sorts of not good.

Did you pull the distributor? Check your rotor position with #1 at TDC if you did.

Not Sure About South of the Border...
 

... but in Canada only Shell does not have ethanol in their gas and I think it might be over soon thanks to... Government regulation.

DSouth

I'm with LakeCleElum & walt, probably electrical and will turnout soon, hopefully.

Bonne Chance

J.J.

Spark Test
 

Maybe you already did this... Did you unplug a spark plug wire an plug a spare spark pug, ground it to the body and see if the is a spark when it's crank (yes you need 2 people and a dark space to make it easier on you).

If you don't have a spare spark plug, buy one as you should carry one in the car for this purpose... along with the usual DME relay, fuse, fan belt and the likes.

Its a 73T with a 78 SC engine running the stock CIS induction. I haven't checked the spark yet. But I plan to in the next day or two.

fuel pumping doesnt mean crap. you need to prime the CIS by turning on the ignition, and lifting the air sensor plate briefly. you want to hear the injectors "scream". we just did this. motor was out for 2 years.

get the big air bubble out of the CIS. (you need to do this everytime you take out a fuel injections component)

Good point Vash. I just went and did that. I heard them screaming. Went to fire and still it just cranks. No fire. Time to check the spark.

No DME relay in this car. That started with the electronic fuel injection with the 3.2s. Earlier cars do have a fuel pump relay to avoid heavy currents through the ignition switch and for other purposes, and it can go bad. Doesn't sound like it here, though.

I have forgotten to purge the fuel system by raising the plate more often than I have remembered to do it. While a good thing to do, mine has always started anyway, at least after a couple of cranks. So I'd doubt that is the issue.

Just tested with a spare spark plug resting resting on the alternator shroud. No spark. I started bench testing the Permatune (911SC model) so far everything checks out except I don't have a multi-meter that can test capacitance so I'll need to find something for that. I'll test the coil next. Coil seems unlikely as it was recently replaced, but who knows.

D,

I've had a few Permatunes and they worked well part time. Permatune has a trouble shooting guide on their site to check the unit out. Everyone I ever saw went tits up quickly and especially when they got too hot.

Just install a MSD 6AL and never look back !!!!!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1276048644.jpg


Cole

Make sure the spark plug has good ground. Try a jumper wire with spring loaded jaws, clamped to the spark plug base, and the other end to the engine mount bolt.

Tested the coil. Secondary is within range. Measuring out at 720 Ohms. Primary is out of spec at .2 Ohms. So it appears the coil is bad. So, now I'm in the market for a coil. I did a bunch of reading about coils on the board and it looks like if I can find one of the older "Black" Bosch CDI coils that would be best, so I placed a WTB add in the Parts forum. Hopefully someone has one that they are are willing to part with for a reasonable price.