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hot wire - 73 911
My 73 911 E won't start. Determined the starter is fine, works grounded, etc, Must be the ignition switch.
The wires on the back of the ignition switch are as follows. With the key in and turned to the run position what wires need to be connected to engage the starter? .................... red ........... yellow.....red .........red .............. red ..... yellow..... grey...red (above was supposed to resemble a circle - yellow at 7:00 red at 9 yellow 10 red 12 red 2 red 3 red 5:00 and gray in the middle) Secondly, once the ignition switch is determined to be bad, how is the ignition switch replaced? I took one screw out from behind but the other is way up on top. Once I get it out, do I take the old ignition switch and new one to a lock smith and have him replace the barrel? Lots of questions, Thanks in advance. Chris 73 911 E Last edited by cmcfaul; 06-11-2010 at 02:24 PM.. Reason: need to add pic |
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Capistrano Beach, Ca.
Posts: 7,235
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This is from memory, so if I make an error someone will surely correct it. The ignition switch is in two parts--mechanical and electrical. The mechanical part is where the lock mechanism is and basically it is there to turn, with a key, a metal tab that fits into the electrical component (where your wires are located). You should be able to unscrew the electrical part and detach it from the rear of the switch. You will notice a "+ " shaped hole in the part which had mated to the mechanical piece. Stick a flat blade screw driver into this hole, turn clockwise, and you should see your dash lights come on. Turn further and the start circuit begins. If that doesn't happen, the electrical part is faulty, as you suspect and it is easily replaced. You should not have to take the mechanical part of the switch out or take it to a lock smith as it, apparently, is not the problem--simply screw a replacement electrical component back, after reconnecting the wires.
If you were having difficulty turning the key, or the spring resistance to the start circuit was lost, then the mechanical part would likely be the culprit. From what you've posted, it sounds like a reasonably easy repair--once you get the back part out.
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L.J. Recovering Porsche-holic Gave up trying to stay clean Stabilized on a Pelican I.V. drip |
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Chris,
I found a photo from a recent thread which illustrates the parts in my response: ![]() The switch on the bottom shows the electrical component I was referring to. What puzzles me a bit is your description of the wiring--the switch is connected with a female plug that goes over the round pins shown in the picture. It didn't sound like yours was connected like that but maybe I misunderstood. You may want to read the thread for a bit of insight: Surprise! Ignition switches different Anyway, hope this helps.
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L.J. Recovering Porsche-holic Gave up trying to stay clean Stabilized on a Pelican I.V. drip Last edited by ossiblue; 06-11-2010 at 06:25 PM.. |
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My ignition switch got to where I had to turn the key and fiddle with it for the starter to engage. I took the electrical part of the switch apart, and the terminal for the starter was badly burned. The factory had installed several extra terminals, so I just swapped the burnt one for a new one and figured I'd replace the switch eventually. That was 6 or 7 years ago......still good.
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Rex 1975 911s and 2012 Range Rover Sport HSE 1995 BMW R1100RS, 1948 Harley FL |
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apparently I removed the cover from the back of the switch. I have not separated the male and female portions of the ignition switch yet. Hopefully by doing this I can remove it more easily (get at the top screw).
Chris |
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Got the switch off and apart. There were some broken plastic parts and a spiders nest in there. Ordered a new one. All the wires fell off, getting them on the new one in the right order should be interesting.
Just out of curiosity, what do the two wires do on the stalk? Chris 73 911 E |
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