Everytime I try to close my door, it does this--
 

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1276478162.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1276478202.jpg
Here are the latch and stopper:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1276478301.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1276478332.jpg
It won't fully close/latch anymore. Worked perfectly up until about a month ago. Now it takes me 3-4 solid tries to shut my driver's side door so it is flush with the body. Anybody know what's the most likely reason for this? It's a 1974 targa. The passenger side door closes just fine. No body or frame damage. It happens both when I am inside the car or outside. It's really getting frustrating having to slam my door shut 4 times before I can go anywhere. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

First thing I would check is the free movement of the locking latch on the door (third photo.) With the door open, press the trigger on the handle and twist the latch, by hand, downward to the locked position and release it. It should snap immediately back to the upward position. If it doesn't, you will need to clean the mechanism from inside the door and lube it with some light oil. You can repeat the above test by twisting the latch downward and let it lock into position (finger off the trigger), then press the trigger and see if it snaps upward.

Sounds stupid, but make sure your door pocket hasn't fallen down over the weatherstrip. Makes for tough closing just like that.

Your catch is broken
 

You have plastic pieces missing from the catch assembly.

My driver's side catch looks identical to my passenger side, and the pass. side door works perfectly. What pieces are missing on my driver's side? Is there a photo somewhere of a perfect intact door catch so I can see what's missing?

It looks like the lower plastic part is gone, as peehonix noted. See if you can tell from this part
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 993-531-030-00-M737

Order new striker plates for both sides...use the proper star socket to remove the old. Mark an outline around the old before you remove them so uou can place the new ones properly...they need the plastic inserts. The new ones will have a gold color. If you wish to return to the silver original color, the gold remove easily with coarse rubbing compound.

I had the same problem with my 70 targa passenger side door. It ended up to be that latch was wore and would not catch. Also when I would hit a bump I would here a pop and my door would come unlatched.

I second the striker plate. My driver side door didn't shut well. Had to give it a good slam. Found the plastic pieces where broken on it. Replaced the striker plate as pwd72s outlined above and all was well.

The above feedback is good. However, the blown strikers may be just symptoms of a problem, not the problem itself. I'd pull the door panels off and remove the latch assemblies. Check the latch springs to make sure they are intact (they do break), then hose out the assemblies with solvent and re-lube, checking to make sure they have a smooth action and complete travel.

While you're in there, would be a goodtime to pull the window regulator assemblies and clean/lube them as well.

my door did the same thing...unless i slammed it really really hard. I ended up adjusting the striker plate, pushing it back and up. It took a few tries to get it just right. door shuts pretty good now. As mentioned, make sure you have the correct socket as the striker bolts will strip rather easily. from your pictures, it seems your car used to be red and there is rust on the striker bolt. Also, there are scrapes above the latch on the door. This leads me to believe the striker plate was rubbing the door here at some point. Perhaps it wasnt lined up right after some paintwork? Check the door hinges and gaps up near the fender as well.

hey..i just noticed you are in Austin. I might be able to help you try to adjust in person. shoot me a pm.

It appears that part of the plastic (?) insert between the striker plates is missing (compare the two sides of the car). With use and time, this is not unusual. New inserts are available, possibly from our host, definitely from S*t*o*d*d*a*r*d*. Probably no need to replace the plates, just the insert. Had the same problem on my '65 912 last summer, and a new insert fixed it in minutes.

Frank

The striker pin thingie (near the missing plastic thing) also gets chewed up. Tyson was telling me recently how this door latch mechanism becomes structural when the door is in the closed position.

Frank,

You guys with the SWB cars are lucky, you can get a rebuild kit for the strikers. Us guys for 1969+ need to buy a new assembly.

After checking it out further, I've found the latch on the door is rather loose. The big philips screw that shows in the picture seems to be stripped, as it won't tighten no matter what I do. I am going to take the panel off and get in there and see what's what.<p>All paint and body work was done on the car before I got it and the door worked perfectly for the first 11 months I owned it, it's only recently presented this problem. If I can't get this sorted soon I might have to take you up on that offer, Kemo--thanks!

not a problem at all...us hill country pelicans stick together ;)

I might even be able to source the striker plate tool...

This weekend a chunk of the plastic fell out of my driver's side striker plate. I'm not seeing any issues (yet) with the door closing, but I'm sure I will start to.

I'd like to support our host & buy just the plastic part (rebuild kit?) but it shows as NLA. The rest of the striker assembly looks to be in good shape. What options do I have (I looked on that 'other' site and found this...

SIC-531-701-23

click to see more
Door striker, left side, gold. Fits 1966-1988 (from chassis #305101, 354000 & 458100).

But in the picture it looks metal, not plastic. Is this the right part?

A small benefit to offset exposed push buttons for 75% of us!

What is the size or description of the star tool to remove the striker plate?