Undercoating Removal - The Fastest Method Yet!
 

Having been through undercoating removal on several cars let me just say that it just plain sucks! The standard PVC undercoating will only come off with lots of scraping. I found the best method is the knotted wire brush on the end of my grinder. The same can be said for the tar material on the inner floorboards of a 911. This is a gooey mess that is best done with a scraper and heat gun. Slow. stinky.

I have just found the best method by far to go through undercoating with no damage to the metal surface. Bring on the Harbor Freight Multi-tool!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278042467.jpg

I bought one of these mostly to use as a detail sander. I just got it today at lunch. I looked at the metal blade and thought this might have more uses. And if it dies I am only out about $35 (had a coupon).

Watch this! I am absolutely amazed at how fast this works. Don't forget your hearing protection. This current project is my 914. It is getting the full strip down treatment.


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Here is that same section not 5 minutes later. Mostly clean metal that will easily finish with the wire brush. After a quick acid etch and degrease the surface is ready for primer.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278042636.jpg

The pile of rubble is impressive. No dust. No stringy PVC flakes. It goes through seam sealer and regular undercoating just as easily.

Here is 20 minutes of work on the DS floorboard. Almost ready for reinforcement welding.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278042649.jpg

Nice!

I got the cordless craftsman version for my birthday last year. Thanks for this discovery, I'll be using it this fall. I've even got that same blade... Do you thik the saw blades could cut through the sheet metal without mangling it? Or is it better to use a dremel with a cutting blade?

Looks a lot like the same sort of oscillating saw that takes off casts! Gotta look into one of those.

Is that a toothed blade or a knife edge?

Thanks

Dave

Wow!

Holy Crap! You my friend are going to make a lot of people happy with this post.

The pied piper of the tool world.

Wow!

This is why this forum is so great. That idea and the sharing of it just rocks. Thank you!!!

Yes, I realize the significance of the post. This kind of thread really benefits everyone. Anyone that has tried to strip a car will very much understand how easy this method is. I will only use the wire brush for cleanup. This tool even gets corners where a wire brush will not.

This is the knife edge blade, not serrated. It is not really sharp to the touch but has a chiseled tip that will easily cut down to metal. I wish it was a little more squared off such that it would cut a flat section. On the PVC undercoating (wheel wells, etc) it will cut a much more narrow strip. It still cuts as quickly, just not as wide.

The best part is that after it dulls you can resharpen with a few passes with a grinder or file. You can even make your own custom profiles since the blades are cheap enough to cut up.

This is what happens when a patent expires (Fein Vibratory tool). The copy-cats swoop in, drop the price to something affordable and people like me start to experiment. To be honest, I had seen these in magazines and infomercials. I was very skeptical. I am SO GLAD I took a chance.

You rock - I'm about to tackle this mess on my 911.

Thanks for posting!

You can tell a really good idea by the way if seems obvious as you slap yourself on the forehead when you first see it...

where were you 2 months ago.... could have saved me the handful of burn marks from the heat gun while removing the asphalt from my floor.

I'm glad that tool works, I got a pnumatic gasket remover thinking it would work similarly but it does not. i think the gasket scraper has strokes that are too short it really be effective. i like that it is a relatively small tool to get into tight areas.

Thanks Jamie, I've got to strip the passenger's side for refinishing still. No need to put off any longer!

Nice work!

I bought the Mastercraft Powered Scraper Kit for this purpose. I have yet to try it out but I'm hopeful that I experience similar results.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278086964.jpg

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/HandTools/UtilityKnives/PRD~0546520P/Mastercraft%252BPowered%252BScraper%252BKit/CROSSSELL~0496525%20Glass%252FTile%2BScraper%2BRep lacement%2BBlade.jsp?locale=en

Tim K

Thanks Jamie!

I've been putting this off and am now glad I did.

I was surprised at the condition of the floor under the asphalt. The raised sections were still in very nice shape with the galvanized coating. The lower stamping ribs were quite rusty under the coating even though it was firmly attached. In some areas the asphalt just jumped off the steel and in some areas it was firm.

I am glad this is all gone and it represents probably 20 pounds from the car. I will see if I can get a weight once its all in the trashcan.

Good stuff, thanks.

Now where's your Texan accent? :D

I am in the Oasis of Austin. Not many original accents here.

Oh and I am an East Coast transplant that is land-locked.

It does have to be a few lbs, my driver's side alone was a few.