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BTW, dive it at night until it clears up.....

Old 07-08-2010, 08:38 AM
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From your posts it does appear that you know how to check the oil. If not overfilled then you have a more serious problem. Serious failure of valve guides or possibly one or more broken piston rings. You need to do a compression and leak down test of the engine to get a better idea of what might be going on.
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Old 07-08-2010, 08:45 AM
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That video looks more like broken rings or a worn valve than an over fill.
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Old 07-08-2010, 08:45 AM
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I will see if I can arrange a leak down and compression test sometime today. Scheduled to go in an hour...
Old 07-08-2010, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailchef View Post
That video looks more like broken rings or a worn valve than an over fill.

I in line with this guy! The Oil Control ring land is VERY THin and Un supported on the Porsche Pistons. They Break a Lot! If you do not have one then Buy a Compression Tester. When you pull the plugs mark all of them for where they come out and then check the compression and if the lowest compression and the Darkest Oily plug Match, then that most likely is the Problem! To further verify this, buy a cheap Bore Scope on E-Bay or somewhere with the 90 degree adapter) you should find one for about $100 Push the tube down the Bad Cylinder and turn on the light and you should see Scratches on the Cylinder Wall. This means you need a Piston / Cylinder Kit that cost about $1200 or so (I got my last set a Very Long time ago for about $900) and someone has to install it! I did mine myself!
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Old 07-08-2010, 09:12 AM
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Had my guy who used to work for a Porsche "air-cooled" specialty shop... come and run the car, visually inspect, then call his former boss and give him all the symptoms... and the preliminary diagnosis... is that it needs at least a top end.

We also believe that there was some 87 or so octane gas... so there may have been some pinging... and that may have led to some of these problems.

Also... there are lots of oil leaks... so I knew this time would come... just was hoping for later rather than sooner.

I guess this will now go into storage and become someones winter rebuild project. I have no clue how to rebuild.
Old 07-08-2010, 01:04 PM
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So I am looking at total rebuild $7-$9000.
Or Re/Re motor $700.
So maybe I can find a reliable 3.2L to throw in there... at half the cost.
And then overtime... rebuild this one...

Anyone have any ideas?
Old 07-08-2010, 01:27 PM
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I assume that it didn't smoke during the PPI. What oil is in there now, 20w-50 or some other lighter oil?
Old 07-08-2010, 01:31 PM
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Nope... didnt smoke during PPI... and didn't smoke for the first 3 days of light driving. Just started last night. No idea which oil... I am on the search for a motor to get me through the summer.
Old 07-08-2010, 01:32 PM
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they generally don't smoke as you describe just because the rings or guides are worn. just some wispy tailpipe smoking after warmup.
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Old 07-08-2010, 01:56 PM
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Sounds like you had some detonation with the 87 octane gas, possibly breaking a ring or two.
Old 07-08-2010, 02:03 PM
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It smokes pretty bad... just like in the video... I had to stop the camera after a few minutes... it will smoke like that for as long as the car is idling.
Old 07-08-2010, 02:03 PM
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Does it ever make sense to pull engine apart and only fix the things that are damaged... or does everybody say.. do this... and while you are in there.. do that... etc etc etc.
Old 07-08-2010, 02:04 PM
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I would pull all plugs and do a compression test to find out which cyl. died on you. if #'s look good on the rest, I would just fix that one until you can do the complete top end. Or if funds allow do the complete top. I did mine myself, counting mach work the heads ran 1300.00 pistons 1100.00, gaskets 120.00, what-nots (oil and whatever else pops up) another 100-500
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Old 07-08-2010, 02:30 PM
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Wink

The video reminds me of my new (to me) 86 cab as I was trying to get it smogged last July.
Turned out to be oil overfill by the PO. I removed about 2 quarts, and after dark I took the car for a nice drive, with the top down . That Italian tune-up worked great and my car passed the California smog test with flying colors the very next morning.
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Old 07-08-2010, 02:37 PM
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Wooo, if you are looking to make some extra money for a rebuild, you can come down to wisconsin and ill pay you to fog my mosquitos....if they dont carry your car away first that is.
Old 07-08-2010, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Bob View Post
BTW, dive it at night until it clears up.....
That's what she said!
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Old 07-08-2010, 03:32 PM
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There have been a few medium to high mile 3.2 motors for sale lately in the $3,700 - $5,000 range. That's my plan... buy one of those for the car while I rebuild my original motor at my leisure.
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Old 07-08-2010, 03:35 PM
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I bought my 3.2 to use in my 73.5 till I rebuilt the original motor.
Be aware as I said in my post before the Bueller comment, 3.2's are prone to worn valve guides. The used one I picked up only had about 65,000 on it but the guides were shot. I ended up rebuilding the entire top end. Now it runs like new.
Worn guides can lead to valve failure, which can do tremendous damage.
Make sure any engine you buy gets a good inspection. A replacement engine that fails early on is just another expensive setback.
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Old 07-08-2010, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1982911SCTarga View Post
Uhm, did anyone read Post #7? Anyone? Bueller?

Brian
Exactly. Not only does JW say it - OP says it's on the "Min" line right after it's started - I don't even have oil on the stick when it's cold.

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Old 07-08-2010, 05:25 PM
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