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If this were my car (and it has been suggested here), I'd certainly TRY the easiest thing of changing the oil and then going for a long drive at night BEFORE considering a new engine. And even then, I wouldn't accept this engine as shot before a compression test. Just my 2.

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Old 07-08-2010, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrinkFrog View Post
If this were my car (and it has been suggested here), I'd certainly TRY the easiest thing of changing the oil and then going for a long drive at night BEFORE considering a new engine. And even then, I wouldn't accept this engine as shot before a compression test. Just my 2.
+1 on this......how about a 2nd opinion AFTER you have changed the oil??
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Old 07-08-2010, 06:18 PM
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As we're on page three, it bears repeating... SEE POST #7.
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Old 07-08-2010, 06:39 PM
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I think the big puff at start up is oil that found its way in the cylinder from an over fill / high oil level in the crank case. Then things clear up till the muffler and heat exchangers get hot and start to burn more oil that is in the exhaust. I gathered that from your video. Dump the oil out of the crank case and oil tank, add 9 quarts and take a ride keep your eye on the pressure and temp. Loop around your local interstate for a couple of hours stay close to home. Bring your cell phone and some #'s just in case. If you notice with 9 quarts it smokes less on start up you will also have less oil going into the exhaust as it sits over night.
Car does look like its been tracked from the gages being tweaked for better visibility on the track.
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Old 07-08-2010, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tharbert View Post
As we're on page three, it bears repeating... SEE POST #7.
Just FYI, it's page 2 for me. The page count is different from one user to the next. If you click Quick Links and select Edit Options, you can set the number of posts per page that you see. For me, it's 40 posts per page.
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Old 07-08-2010, 10:34 PM
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I also agree to take JW's advice and drive it continuously for a while.

If you do the top end, do the bottom end too. Once you get the cylinders off it's not that much more to do the rest and at 197k you'll be driving on borrowed time otherwise.
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Old 07-08-2010, 10:41 PM
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I can't believe this didn't show up in the PPI. That kind of smoking couldn't be missed from a mile away. What could have changed in such a short period of time?
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Old 07-08-2010, 10:43 PM
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Just to clarify: does the dipstick show min after it has been run to operating temp (at least 1/3 up temp scale)? Or is this right after start up?

If you are showing min. on dipstick while cold I would drain 1-2L of oil from sump and try again just to rule out overfill.

Checking oil level on these cares is VERY different from most: must be warm (hot) engine with engine running. Checking dipstick while cold/not running will lead to overfill.

The smoke I saw on your video is alarming and cannot be due to valve guide wear (unless valve guides have totally disintegrated!) Johnny Walker is like a Porsche Prophet... heed his words. Drain one or two litres and go for good spin tonight. Watch your oil pressure to make sure you haven't gone dry, and see tomorrow if smoke isn't gone.
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Old 07-09-2010, 12:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by porschenut View Post
Just FYI, it's page 2 for me. The page count is different from one user to the next. If you click Quick Links and select Edit Options, you can set the number of posts per page that you see. For me, it's 40 posts per page.
Quite right! Mine was set at the "default." I can see where less than 40 posts may be desirable like on Mr. Woodbury's random 911 pictures thread. A page with 40 HD pictures may take a little long to load.

I appreciate the tip.
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Old 07-09-2010, 05:03 AM
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My 82 3.0l was doing similar things and on the advice of the local Porsche guru up here all I did was remove the "vent" line from the oil tank. There is a valve in there that seems to act like crankcase ventalation or something. ( does anybody know what its called and what it does?) I cleaned it out with brake clean and the smoke show stopped right away, oil pressure (on dash gauge at least) improved and the cars idle even got smoother. I don't know much but hope this helps you.
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Old 07-09-2010, 08:06 AM
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It's upposed to keep liquid oil of the intake. Overfilled oil tanks will clog it up and/or let oil into the intake where it burns and you get the smoke. It's designed to let vapor thru and to vent over pressure...
Old 07-09-2010, 08:12 AM
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Thanks Joe Bob! So it seems somewhere in my cars life myself or someone before me must have overfilled the tank. Something I will pay closer attention to from now on. ( or will they just normaly "fill up" on their own with a high mileage car? )
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Old 07-09-2010, 08:38 AM
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I will hope to try dropping some oil this weekend. Also going to do a major clean of the underside and just see where all the leaks are coming from.

Maybe if Mr Walker can cut me a deal... since I am already over budget... I will trailer the car back to WA... and leave it with him... while I catch a Mariners game and wife will most likely want to go to Nordstroms and some surrounding outlet malls.

In my neck of the woods, it is very difficult to get a Porsche Mechanic to do what the customer wants...

They just all say... give me $10k and I will make sure it is as good as new.

Or you get the "wannabe" Porsche Guy... who says.. let me take a look at it... it cant be that difficult.
Old 07-09-2010, 08:48 AM
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Just looking for some more advice in regards to the draining some oil...

Process...

1. Warm up engine at idle... let the smoke show start... once nice and hot.. check oil...
*If it is at MIN... do I want to drain any?
*Anything above MIN... drain a bit?

2. Once a portion of oil is drained... go for drive...
*Monitor OIL PRESSURE
*Monitor ENGINE TEMP
*CHECK ACCELERATION AND POWER

3. Cross fingers hope no more smoke...
* and if there is still lots of smoke... cross fingers and hope for no more damage.

I will also add octane boost since the last tanke was 87 octane... which I was told is bad!!!!
Old 07-09-2010, 08:52 AM
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You car has almost 200k miles...

You didn't just put synthetic oil in, did you?

I had a 76 911s with 140k on it, never smoked. I decided to "improve" it with 20/50 synthetic... started smoking at idle like crazy. Changed back to 20/50 dino, it got better, but never the same. I suspected it would take a while for the sythetic to "burn off."

Might be grasping for straws here, but put in some castrol 20/50 gtx and see what happens...
Old 07-09-2010, 08:59 AM
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This 87 Octane bothers me the most and second as Bob with the 87 Targa Said, the Gauges also looked oriented for a quick read like a race car. The car may have had problems, But no one explained how the 87 Octane gasoline got into it? A bunch of Detonating can really Destroy a good engine Quick. These cars do not have the Detonating sound devices to retard the ignition (at least not up to 1983). Are you sure you have 93 octane Gasoline in there now? Put in some 20 w 50 About 9 Quarts and a can of STP and see if it will run normal!
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Old 07-09-2010, 09:03 AM
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I will be honest... I was looking for a high milage Cab in Canada... for $10,000 or less... but a high mileage rust bucket Targa up here people still want $10k.

So I started expanding my search and even all over the USA... they are around $12K and up.

Then I can across this one.. which has been my dream car... so I did get a basic PPI.. not the whole leakdown and compression done... as there were lots of little things... so I figure I would see if I got lucky and drive it cautiously and see how long it lasted...

It has eveerything I want.. that I would keep this for the long term.. and when time and money permits... get it to A1 condition when I got to my retirement years... 15 years away... but in the meantime... I would just do the "minimal" to be able to drive to and from work... (less than 5kms) and then odd weekend scoot... (less than 100kms)

I just wanted to drive it for a week and see what I uncovered... this is what happened.... so now I am forced to deal with it.

I bought all the parts to do tune up etc... but hadnt yet gotten to anything until this occurred.

So I will likely drain the oil completely... put in the amount John Walker has suggested... and then drive it to see if the smoke disappears.

I havent driven it since it happened because I was worried I would do more damage.

From talking to a local Porsche Specialty Shop... he said it sounds like Valve Guide... and maybe a split intake gasket... which he had found on one of my former high mileage 911's.

At this point.. just crossing fingers to see if I can get this back on the road for as cheap as possible.

It sees less than 1500 miles a year...
Old 07-09-2010, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpu699 View Post
You car has almost 200k miles...

You didn't just put synthetic oil in, did you?

I had a 76 911s with 140k on it, never smoked. I decided to "improve" it with 20/50 synthetic... started smoking at idle like crazy. Changed back to 20/50 dino, it got better, but never the same. I suspected it would take a while for the sythetic to "burn off."

Might be grasping for straws here, but put in some castrol 20/50 gtx and see what happens...

I have synthetic in my 205k miles BMW 635 and I have synthetic in my 100k mile 911 and have absolutely no issues. You might expect a little bit of difference if everything is in good working order, but that's it. You should not get clouds of billowing smoke just from going dino to synthetic.

And PLEASE do not use Castrol 20W50. Brad Penn 20w50 is the recommended dino oil. There are other options as well that can be found in the ultimate oil thread on this forum.
Old 07-09-2010, 09:51 AM
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hamkj, I would go buy a cheap compression tester and check for compression before doing any driving at all. For all you know you might have a hole in top of a piston from detonation broken skirt\rings who knows, but you could end up doing a lot of damage. Me and my brothers race 5 second drag bikes, and this is a common occurrence < sometimes weekly. Just to be safe you know.
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Old 07-09-2010, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hamkj View Post
Just looking for some more advice in regards to the draining some oil...

Process...

1. Warm up engine at idle... let the smoke show start... once nice and hot.. check oil...
*If it is at MIN... do I want to drain any?
*Anything above MIN... drain a bit?
No. Don't let your engine warm up at idle.
It's not good for an air cooled engine, and it will take forever.

Start the car, drive it right away, keep it under 3K rpm.
It will take at least 5 miles before your engine is at operating temperature. So drive 7 to 10 miles.
Since you have an oil cooler in the front fender, if you watch closely you'll see the temperature rise at or above the 2nd mark,
then the thermostat opens, and the temperature drops quickly (in a few seconds), and rises again slowly to operating temp.
The temp gauge should be around the 2nd white mark for operating temp (slightly under maybe). Or 8 o'clock if your gauge was level.
Then you can check your oil.

Last point, if you engine gets oil from the intake, you won't see it in the air filter, as it gets in after the air filter.
Check the air box, after the air filter.

-Guillaume

Old 07-09-2010, 05:15 PM
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