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What can I add that hasn't already been said... Oh yeah, instead of (or in parallel with) the swapping out the thermostat you can install a switch to trigger the fan. That way you can just turn it on and forget about it while at the track. It may be easier to get in their with the wiring rather than swapping out the thermostat.

The only other things to remember are expect to need to flush the brakes more often, and the oil as well if your engine temps get real high during the day.

Also, shiny side up, keep it on the pavement, and most importantly, have fun

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'75 Targa in "Arrest Me" Red, 3.0SC ('79) engine, Bilsteins, Turbo Tie-rods, SSIs into 2-1 M&K muffler... and looking for my next upgrade.
Old 07-11-2010, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Verburg View Post
So what bearing does this list have on track use? other than the t-stat suggestion
Fires are no fun-On or off the track!
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Last edited by 86 911 Targa; 07-13-2010 at 01:24 PM..
Old 07-13-2010, 12:32 PM
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My 86 has 210k miles and I run it full on at DE with no ill effect.

X2 on brake and oil checks.

Check oil temp when you have a few seconds to relax(!) on a long straight, every lap. If temp creeps above 250 you may want to back off because the oil begins to break down. If you do slow down, pay close attention to others.

You will have a blast!
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Old 07-13-2010, 03:15 PM
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I have a trombone cooler and a 3.2. the temps never went above 210, but it was cool each day. I would definitely want as much cooling as possible if I ran in the heat of the summer.
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Old 07-13-2010, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86 911 Targa View Post
Fires are no fun-On or off the track!
You have an active imagination
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Old 07-13-2010, 03:36 PM
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Where did you get you car lowered?
Im in staten island
Old 07-13-2010, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by galileo View Post
Where did you get you car lowered?
Im in staten island
There are lots of excellent shops down there, one would be Deman but there are several other good choices
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Old 07-13-2010, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by SCOTITUDE View Post
car gets less cosmetic abuse on the track than on our lovely local streets. There is significantly less crap on the track surface than on our streeets. More rubber pieces but less rocks, pebbles and pieces of asphalt. If your worried buy a 2 piece bra. I used one to protect the front end when I started doing DE's. worked well. If you drive your on the streets here you have nothing to worry about at the track. come play. you wont be disappointed.
When tires get hot, they pick up a lot more and toss it out the back. I can't agree with the quote unless you stay well behind the car in front of you.

Which is not human nature.
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Old 07-13-2010, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by GaryR View Post
snip...

Fresh high temp brake fluid (500+ degrees dry and anything BUT ATE Blue), ...
I'm confused by this part of your advice. Why do you say anything BUT ATE Blue? I thought that was one of the recommended fluids to use on the track. I just finished replacing my fluid with ATE Super Blue for my track day in August, so I'd like to know the reason behind your statement.

Thanks.
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Old 07-14-2010, 06:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedracerIndy View Post
I'm confused by this part of your advice. Why do you say anything BUT ATE Blue? I thought that was one of the recommended fluids to use on the track. I just finished replacing my fluid with ATE Super Blue for my track day in August, so I'd like to know the reason behind your statement.

Thanks.
ATE200 and ATE blue are the same product and are fine for non heat stressed systems

911s used on track are heat stressed, you want the highest boiling point you can get, I weight wet performnce somewhat more than dry

here are some #s
DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM (SILICONE BASE)
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5.1 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551 ($12.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:527F -- WET:347F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER DOT3 & DOT4
DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200 ($9.95/1L)
DRY:543F -- WET:349F --- Endless The truth DOT 4 ($35/1L)
DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- PERFORMANCE Friction Z rated ($6.27/16 OZ)
DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 ($4/12 OZ)
DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- WILWOOD 570 ($5.65/12 OZ)
DRY:572F -- WET:284F --- US Brake/AFCO Racing 570 Gold
DRY:572F -- WET:421F --- US Brake/AFCO Racing Ultra HTX
DRY:577F -- WET:300F --- Brake Man
DRY:585F -- WET:421F --- Earl's Hypertemp 421
DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING Super 600 ($16.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600 ($12.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF ($69.00/1L 0R 33.8 OZ)
DRY:601F -- WET:399F --- BREMBO LCF 600 PLUS ($26.75/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO SYNTHETICS SUPER DOT 610($11.95/12 OZ)
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- PROSPEED GS610 ($39.95/16 OZ)
DRY:617F -- WET:413F --- Endless RF-450 ($45/1L)
DRY:620F -- WET:425F --- COBALT SUPER XRF [seem to no longer be available]
DRY:622F -- WET:424F --- Endless RF-650
DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- WILWOOD EXP 600 ($16.95/0.5L 16.9 OZ)

you'll notice that SRF has the highest wet bp out there, it's also the most expensive
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Old 07-14-2010, 06:46 AM
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Most street cars that go to DEs come through just fine. Some do not. If you get off track, anything can happen. I've seen quite a number of cars seriously damaged, and a few destroyed completely at DEs.

Bleed your brakes, watch your oil temp, and follow instructions. You should be OK.
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Old 07-14-2010, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedracerIndy View Post
I'm confused by this part of your advice. Why do you say anything BUT ATE Blue? I thought that was one of the recommended fluids to use on the track. I just finished replacing my fluid with ATE Super Blue for my track day in August, so I'd like to know the reason behind your statement.

Thanks.
It's simple, ATE Blue stains the crap out of the reservoir (my main reason for my dislike of it) and makes it that much more difficult to see contaminates when you are bleeding. If you think you will flush it out with ATE Gold in between and get nice clear fluid good luck with that. It took me about four flushes to finally get the blue tint out of my fluid. There is absolutely no reason to use it and the ATE Gold is usually CHEAPER (and the exact same spec)!!! Use amber fluid and when flushing when it comes out looking new... it is new.

Hope that clears up my opinion of ATE Blue. You will be fine, but I would switch to ATE Gold (or one of the other even higher temp fluids) at your next service.
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Old 07-14-2010, 07:42 AM
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I've used ATE superblue for years, both racing and DEs. Never had a brake issue that was related to the fluid.
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Old 07-14-2010, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by TechnoViking View Post
I've used ATE superblue for years, both racing and DEs. Never had a brake issue that was related to the fluid.
+1 on ATE Superblue and I also switch between the ATE Gold routinely during changing of fluids.
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Old 07-14-2010, 11:55 AM
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Dry:550f -- wet:284f --- ford heavy duty dot 3 ($4/12 oz)

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Old 07-14-2010, 12:21 PM
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Having driven a couple of hundred track days over the last 6 years let me offer the following observations.

In agreement with milt the suggestion that a DE will damage your paint less than driving on the street is simply not true. You will be running in much closer quarters, at higher speeds and will be pelted in invisible sand. The front of my GT3 which has less than 20k (all track) miles looks awful from sand blasting and I have replaced the windscreen twice as result of track damage.

Apart from this, DEing does not need to do any more damage to your beautiful car. But that will be entirely up to you. Porsches are meant to be driven quickly but they are not meant to be abused. If you arrive at the track and think you are Michael Shoemaker and drive it hard and "fast" you will almost inevitably do it an injury. Your car will reward you with both speed and longevity if you take the time to learn a smooth and consistent technique. Don't worry what any one else is doing do what feels smoothest and least abusive.

Brake pads and fluids are critical. Pads should be at least half width when you finish - not when you start. Always carry a full set of spare pads and the tools and knowledge to change them. Have your brakes flushed and refilled with high temperature break fluid at least annually. Have them bled before every event. ATE blue or gold are fine. That is all I have ever used.

In the early days of DEing I would not worry too much about running temperature. If it is not overheating on the street it will be fine on the track for as long as you are in the Instructed groups - probably further.

Either Jacobs or Deman are very trustworthy people and are both extremely well qualified to help you getting set to go.

Hope this helpful.

Laurence


Last edited by jittsl; 07-14-2010 at 01:44 PM..
Old 07-14-2010, 01:37 PM
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