Problems with Rennshift installation
 

I installed my Rennshift today. It didn't went well. Now, I can't change gear smoothly, I get mechanical noises from the tunnel when changing gear (testing without engine on), and it both feels and sounds like something gets stuck inside the tunnel and is scratching. The throttle cable, the Handbrake, the clutch cable, something else (speedometer cable is not inside the tunnel for the time being)?
I think the rennshift sets the shift-rod "more low" inside the tunnel.

When changing to 1 st gear, the shifter is not pulled enough backward for the automatic reverse lockup to function/snap in.

Should I also change the shift coupler? I already have new bushings in place.

Someone have good instructions how to adjust the Rennshift after the installation?

I hope someone can help me out.`
1. Is this an adjustment issue?
2. Is there something in the tunnel that is "in the way" and interfere?
3. Is this an coupler issue? (new bushings installed)
4. Something else?

I don't have this problem when the original and crappy worn out 901 shifter is installed.

Remi,
I just repsonded in the other thread.

But to answer you questions to the best of my knowlege -
1. There are mulitple adjustments on the shifter. Did you adjust anything on the shifter before initial install?
2. I can't say for sure but I can't see where anything would be getting in the way. The shift rod hasn't been removed has it? If you only replaced bushings then it may be hanging up in the new bushings. Did you grease them first? Are they seated properly so the shift rod can slide freely?
3. The coupler is a big possiblity. I had lots of adjustments to get mine just right. A tiny bit can make a difference.

Be patient. You'll get it. When I intalled mine it was odd. Then I installed a new coupler and it was horrible! After countless adjustments it's finally a huge improvement. (I have a trans issue but the shifter / coupler installs were substanial improvements)

I went through the same thing when I had my trans redone and a Wevo internal shift gate installed. Trans was great, but shifting was terrible.

I took out the Weltmeister shift and installed factory short shift kit. The I redid all the bushings and installed a Wevo coupler. That was followed by careful adjustment of the coupler. Shifting is now wonderful and has been for 2 years and more.

You have more adjustments in your shifter than I do, but I have to stress fresh bushings and a play free coupler...

I'm getting ready to instal one myself...
 

Did you make sure the small aluminum block spacer was installed at the base?

They're supposed to be glued in place, but the glue on mine did not hold and it was loose in the bag. I traced it to the old residual glue spot - so I know where it goes. They also changed screw thread types at one point for the base hub to mount to the bottom plate, make sure they're tight and not cross threaded to allow play.

The instructions mention there will be binding (sounds like what you have) if the aluminum block is left out.

Be sure to post the fix when you find out, I'm sure it will help others - it's a pretty popular upgrade.

One more evening struggeling with the Rennshift installation.

1.
I think I found the source to some of the resistance and noice. It seems like the Rennshift is lowering the "shift-rod" about a centimeter because of the "spacer". I had some metal-stuff in the bottom of the tunnel about where the hand-break is located, and the shifter-rod was touching into it.

Picture (the red shows where the "problematic" metal was located):
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1279226494.jpg

2.
Next, please point out where it is possible to adjust the coupler and how it works? (I have new factory coupler installed)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1279227011.jpg

3.
At last, please point out where to adjust on the Rennshift and how it works, where do I start?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1279227454.jpg

I recently installed the Rnnshift shifter and it was a GREAT improvement. I love it. I only had to adjust the throw of the lever which is done by adj the bolt on A in your pictures. You can also play with the spacer under the springs that are located under your C point - adding shims under the springs make for a harder lever. I used only 1 shim. I did not touch the coupler at all. By yes, it can also be adjusted.
I would try to play with the A bolts first. this should solve the problem with 1st gear that you are mentioning.
good luck...once you get it right, you will love it

Sorry for the delay seeing this - I can answer right away if you e-mail me direct on my site.

Before you start, back out both "A" setscrews to get the them out of the way. You can even remove them until the shifter is adjusted - you don't want them limiting the throw while trying to adjust. These are just for preventing too much travel so they are adjusted last.

Never touch the "B" pivot bolts.

"C" top cover can be removed to add the shims for the springs to increase the centering action. Note that you can add different numbers of shims to each side to tune the springs to what you like.

The bolt inside "D" is for changing the throw. This is not so much an adjustment as an alteration, so don't touch unless you are taking the bolt out to move the buchings and change the throw pivot point.


Coupler:
"A" is the attaching cone screw and should be tight.

"B" is a casting hole - ignore it.

"C" is the key adjusting nut and bolt. Put the trans in 2nd gear (901). Loosen "C" and the shifter springs will force the stick to center. Tighten "C."

Shift into neutral and check the vertical alignment (front-to-back) of the lower part of the stick. It should very close to straight up.

Shifting will work at this point, but may need ever so slight adjustments so that 2nd and 3rd can be selected in perfect alignment with the springs in the shifter. Just shift from neutral to 2nd and 3rd withour any side pressure on the stick to check that the stick goes in without being moved to one side as the gear is engaged.

Thank you very much, what about adjusting the length of the shift-rod? I think I need to shorten it 0,5 cm or so? Can I do that as well with the coupler "C" ?

This thread will be a huge help when I buy my Rennshifter. Thanks!

That is done at "C," and you are trying to achieve the vertical alignment in neutral I mentioned above.

Thanks again, I have just adjusted a bit on my car.
Result (have not tested with engine running yet):

1.
Every gear works fine except, when setting it in reverse, I have to engage 2nd first to make the reverse without strugle. Is this normal?

2.
The shift lever is a bit to much to the right to "activate" the automatic "reverse lock-out".
I wrongly loosen and fasten the "B" before I read the thread, can that have something to do with it?

3.
I might still have some metal "touching" the rod in the bottom of the tunnel below the hand brake lever I have to grind out.

I am finish fine-tuning the shift coupler and Rennshift and have testet the car in action.
I have rebushed the pedal cluster and have new floor-board with new clutch stop mechanism, and allso have adjusted the trottle and clutch wires correctly.
The difference is amazing.

2 questions left:
The reverse lockout is not engaging, my shiftlever is not enough to the rear to "touch" the lock out pin. Is this normal?

The 2 screws to adjust the "stop" front-back, is not touching the shift level, even when screwed in all the way. Is this normal?