911 clutch return spring CONQUERED
 

The 911 community owes me on this one. Here's my story.
I pretty good with cars. I had just reinstalled my pedal cluster (new bushings, spacer, clips, etc.). I foolishly thought I would install that incredibly tight spring last. Bad idea.

I then got on the PP forums. One suggestion was basically remove the cluster and install spring on the workbench,

Another person sent me to a link (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/159061-dreaded-clutch-pedal-return-spring.html). This one involved a pair of vise grips, a small come-along and a breaker bar (to anchor the come-along). All the time I'm looking at this procedure I'm thinking "what a horrible way to die - vise-grips going through your forehead!"
There had to be a better way. I have worked in a large power generation facility for 32 years. When it comes to power generation, management doesn't want to hear "it can't be done". By necessity I learned to think "out of the box".
Now to my solution.
There are two ways to spread the spring coils. One is to use vice grips and a come-slong. My way is to put the spring in a vise, using a large-bladded flat screw drivers, I wedged the coils apart and merely inserted small hex nuts. Remember your EYE PROTECTION! Actually a few "popped" out but with very little force.
Once I had the coils pretty much spread apart (about ten minutes) I took it to the cluster, pushed the clutch pedal all the way to the floor with my hand. And guess what - the spring assembly almost falls over the pin. I then used a long small bladed screwdriver and popped the nuts out of the coils. In fact the spring goes on so loosely, you need to make sure the big hook doesn't slide off its pin.
I swear this whole procedure took less than half an hour.
You're welcome.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280180875.jpg

Excellent!! Thanks for the write up.

maybe works even better with metal bar stock shims, or something like that.

I have seen that done with large washers. The pedal cluster is likely my next project on my car.

Good write up. Thanks!

Nice write up, we like pictures :)

Couldn't help but notice that the thread you referenced has Noah passing on Chuck Moreland's suggestion to stack washers between the spring coils in post #11.

Noah's idea
 

I was so concentrated on the vice grip method, I passed over the other posts. He certainly deserves credit.
I think the nuts might be better as they are thicker but I may be wrong.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280193414.jpg

Great minds think a like! I used screws to extend the spring and then just wound them out when it was on. :)

Nuts or washersssss - either works, don't think there is a wrong with those two - pulling hard with a wrench and watching it hit your head when it lets go is definently wrong. I used the washer method when I rebuilt my cluster -worked like a champ.

By the way - is that a colgan bra? If so, did you have to do something to get the lid to shut with both pieces on?- I get to much stack up and the latch won't engage. Thought about adjusting the latch length but figured that would result in a slight opening up top.

Mike

I have not had to do mine....but it occurs to me....a brake tool for installing springs on drum brakes might work.
You run the tool through the spring end, then lever the tool onto the post (cupped side to post) and then pull the spring into the extended position and the spring slides down the tool onto the post.
Fairly simple....maybe too simple....LOL
Bob

Colgan bra
 

Yes it is a Colgan. I had to adjust the lock mechanism to get it to close properly. The down side of this is that when I wash the car (closing the hood without bra installed) it is hard to open. You have to have an extra person (one to operate latch and one pressing down on hood. I resolved by temporarily inserting a towel to simulate thickness of bra.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280200846.jpg

Wow, excellent idea. I just gave up and left mine off. I'll have to give this method a try.

Thanks!

Lindy

If you don't mind sharing...What kind of ramps/jack is in your pic?

Ramps
 

They are Kwik Lift ramps KwikLift drive on lifts, 2 & 4 post lifts, home, commercial, car, truck, forklift maintenance lifts

They are fantastic. When not in use they lay flat.
Also added pic of hydraulic lift in the left bay (2 car garage).
With the two devices I can basically "hang the wheels" or elevate vehicle and dance around on my creeper underneath.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280638167.jpg

that's correct. i use one that's shortened a bit to clear the wheel well hump. takes 20 seconds.

Ok, dumb question time. Why dont you just put the spring on before you put the cluster back in the car? Thats what I did. Also, dumb question #2. My helper spring works more like it is helping depress the clutch not return the pedal to the top. Is that correct?

Reply
 

It was first time I had done procedure (rebuilding cluster).
However, if your spring breaks, pops off, etc, you can reinstall a new one without having to remove pedal cluster. Your mechanic may not like it.
As for what the spring actually does, looking at the device, it looks like (judging from arc of travel) the spring, when pedal is untouched, keeps pedal at top of travel. As you press pedal, it passes through to other side of "arc" and it is now assisting you. Basically it is dual-purpose.
Pretty clever if you ask me.

Because my peddle doesn't come all the way back to the rubber stop, does that mean that my two year old brass bushes are giving out or out of lube? Fine idea, and I'm in the thick of it at present........ g rad

Excellent! I will have to give your technique a try!... Thanks!