Brights problem

[Kurt B]

I'm going to get shot on the freeway. It's one thing to be in a loud, very cool looking 911 and drive like you know it, but then to have my brights randomly flashing people is frightening. It's enough to really piss people off; esp when it's bumpy and they flash several times over a couple minute interval!

I've been in the 914 wheel column...was not fun. Anything I can do without disassembling the unit? Sprays, or anything else?

[nhromyak]

I presume you don't want to replace the hi-beam switch.

I think there was something about bending and cleaning the contacts.

Other than that, I would pull the high beam light fuses (one each for left and right).

[thabaer]

I could swear the last time I had this problem it was caused by dirty contacts. My setup was fixed by the same clean/deoxidize/bendum procedure.

Good luck and be prepared to duck in the meantime.

[Steve W]

Nick is most likely right. I had an 84 Targa that had the same problem and I had to bend the metal contacts in the high-low-turn signal stalk to correct this. It usually gets wacked like this when the lever is pulled too hard and frequently when high beam flashing instead of just flicking the lever forward.

[Superman]

I fixed this problem using the clean-and-bend method. The stalk switch does not need to be removed for this repair, but it does need to be accessed, which means removing the steering wheel and plastic covers.

[Kurt B]

Thanks guys...I hoped it would be that simple. I'll check it out tonight before I have to get huge Pep Boys lettering to put on my front trunk
"MY BRIGHT SWITCH IS BUSTED
I'M NOT FLASHING YOU"

But backwards, of course!

[fb911sc]

I picked up my first SC 3 weeks ago. First problem - no headlights! Got it home and fiddled with it long enough to get the brights on permanently! The contacts in the dimmer switch overheat and tear loose from their holders. Not much of a temp fix. The switch replacement takes about 2 hrs for a hack. Spend the $100 for a new switch and get it behind you.

[autobonrun]

This solution will definitely take away points at a concourse event but once when my switch was going out, I temporarily fixed the problem by stuffing a folded match cover partially in the space behind the switch. This kept the contacts in the correct position by keeping the stalk forward. It would still switch to high when I activated it. This helped until I could get the switch replaced.

[jkeyzer]

If you want to sacrifice your hi-beams temporarily while you troubleshoot the problem (probably a faulty high/low beam switch) you can fairly easily bypass this switch under the dash. I have done this before and it involves rerouting the yellow wire for the stalk wiring harness (which conveniently has a spade connector junction) directly to the headlight switch. I drove my car for quite some time like this with no problems (and no hi-beams) because the PO had shoved sticks and papers into the switch causing shorts and smoke when one attempted to use it. (!)

Fortunately the switch is easy to replace, at least on my 72. Remove the steering wheel. Remove the two tiny screws which attach to the wiper and hi-beam switches. Remove the black shroud covering the steering column, careful not to break any of the plastic bits that make it snap together. There are two screws which hold the switch onto the steering column, remove those and it should slide out. It is wise to disconnect the battery before doing this (from personal experience ).

[skinnerd]

I as well had the sporadically flashing high beam problem on my 73 911. Couldn't order a new switch as the arm is different (must be the new style). So dug into the switch, and like so many above have alluded.... all that was needed was to bend the contacts slightly (in the correct way of course), and the high beams were working just like new. Total outlay.... $0. It's worth a try before buying a new one.

[Kurt B]

That took all of 35 or 40 minutes. And as 911 escapades go for the first time, that's nothing!
You get the unit out, and you can see a couple of little flimpsy contacts that swing together for both brights on and brights flash. Slip a small screw driver between them, force them apart (they were touching or damn close) and bingo, no more birds, no more honks, no more "f!ck you Porsche guy!"
Thanks again

[notmytarga]

I thought I would add to this thread that I found while lurking - this is my first post. Still working on not-my-Targa, "the title is in the Mail" Story to follow.

This is the best thread I could find on this subject and I need some help. Lets add to the information here.

As the picture shows I have removed the switch from the column and removed the zip-tie that secures the wire bundles. I cleaned and lubricated the parts, but I can not figure out how the switch functions.

I can see the "flash to pass" contact closing properly - they are deep to the other contacts. Nothing seems to move the contacts for the highbeams-on, nothing looks like it should, and nothing is obviously broken.

So I have attached this picture hoping that someone who has been into this switch can tell me/us -
1. What moves the highbeams-on contacts?
2. Does this switch look normal?

1975 Targa 911S -

[Early_S_Man]

Kurt,

Have you been ignoring ALL of the threads about the need to install relays for your headlamps over the past 2.5 years???

[Argo]

Save you the search if you're interested ...

http://members.rennlist.com/msucro1/relaykit.htm


Argo
88 Targa

[notmytarga]

I know enough about the circuits to know that these contacts are the culprit and their lack of movement the source of this problem. The reason I added to this post rather than start a new one is I wanted to keep this information together.


This is not a photo of a relay - it is a photo of the dimmer switch contacts.

My 'flash to pass works' - and I can see the contacts close that do this. The relay is working.

But the contacts that close when the brights are ON do not move when the stalk is put in that position.

My switch costs $150 for the 74-75 - I have more at stake than the later version.

Your comments on this would be appreciated!

[Early_S_Man]

Mike,

The stalk switch carries ALL of the current for the headlamps! And, it was designed to carry the load for 45 Watt/40 Watt Type 'A' bulbs in 1965!!! Even normal OEM 60 Watt/55 Watt bulbs will cause the contacts to burn and overheat over time, as many owners have found, and failure at night is not a fun experience ... miles from home or shop!

Relays of the 40 Amp DIN ice cube variety and a socket with wiring ...

12 VDC 40 AMP Power
Mfg. Potter&Brumfield
Mfg. # VF4-45F11
1" sq x 1"
SPDT, 12 VDC @ 40 amp
Coil resistance: 90 ohm
With bracket. (1-99) PART # 45-287 $3.50

Relay Socket For 12 VDC
40 AMP Power Relay #45-287 PART # 21-193 $2.09

... are available from:

http://www.hosfelt.com/Relay%20Folder/Relay%205.htm

[notmytarga]

The relay would be a good idea - I realize I don't have one to blame for the problem of my brights not staying on.

Before I add relays to this circuit I still need to be able to use the stalk switch to get juice to the relay to fire the big amps to the headlights. Back to these contacts and my post with the picture several posts ago. How does the mechanism close the contacts? Although my switch does not seem broken I see no movement that bending will help.

BUT - very near the contacts there is spot that looks like it could be melted - although this looks like the OEM way of securing the bottom contact.

Does my switch look normal? What moves the contacts?

[sammyg2]

When I got my car the brights were always on. I just pulled the high beam fuses as a temporary fix.
If you look at that picture there is a silver piece of soft metal running through the middle and is a little higher on the right than left.

Activating the switch pushes up in the middle of that piece. Over time it gets bent a little and does not travel far enough "up" in the picture to switch to the low beams. I just bent it back a little to take the bow out of it, the switch has worked perfectly ever since.