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You're a dork. But you are my kind of dork.
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Your even a good artist! Great work and thanks for the tip. I'm sure I would not have though of that one.
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Where's Merek Mallik
Nice Work!!!!!!!!! I was wondering if you have ever heard of a guy named Merek Mallik AKA Mark Mallik. I bought his 68 T here in Durango from a second party. Would like to talk to him. He brought the car to the U.S. From Poland, I have the shipping papers that show he was the owner from new. I used to live up there in Lafayette and have friends in Louisville, when I come up next would like to meet you and have a beer. Hope you had a good Christmas. Thank you for your time.
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Merek
I am not familiar with the guy...but I try to keep my head down. Stay in the alley out of the light. You are welcome at my shop anytime. Just give me some "heads up" in advance. Getting close to firing up the engine. Working on finishing up electrical, gas, oil and brakes. Yeah the important stuff. Been a long haul. Funny, the new name "Sorgenkind" has stuck. Makes a lot of sense ....to me :D
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Ok...so some progress made
The punchlist is now getting shorter. The bakelite plug for the gas tank fuel sender has been replaced (always good to know how little gas you have) and the charcoal canister was waiting for a nice heavy strip of velcro to get latched down. Funny, that always appeared to me to be an after thought...sort of an "well we probably want to add this to the evaporative system, where should we put it and how do we hold it down? Velcro was just invented, lets use that". Anyway, those two are done. I have been quietly fighting the engine wiring harness and the electrical panel in the engine compartment. Wiring issues are kind of like personal problems...you only admit them to close friends, or at least people that you respect not to bust your chops and embarrass you. So I didn't want to bore the thread, and decided to keep my ignorance :rolleyes: off-campus. I am almost done...but I still have some stray wire questions. Feel free to comment, but please don't tell me to just "re-read the wiring diagram"...I already have been *****-slapped for that one.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/789412-70-71-engine-compartment-wiring-questions.html I also need to deal with the oil hoses...breather to fill neck, and tank to carbs. No real easy way to carve up the carbs, so I decided to incorporate an auxiliary vent tank. I use one of these in my race car and it works fine. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388798990.jpg I need to fabricate a bracket that will support the reservoir, and also position it such that if and when I need to drain it ...I can have access. I have this bracket...not sure where it came from. Maybe something from a CIS car for the fuel accumulator? Or the heater blower? Anyway...it volunteered and it is going to take one "for the team". http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388799309.jpg Too much material here...need to reduce. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388799417.jpg Trimmed up a bit http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388799454.jpg This is how it is going to work http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388799511.jpg I will pretty it up and show the install and plumbing tomorrow. Tomorrow will be fluids day. Brakefluid, and oil. And hope for no leaks. I am going to hold off on petrol till we are ready to start it. Not far now...might make cars and coffee in February. I am impressed I can still focus. Skied this morning and mountain biked this afternoon...60 degrees in Boulder. Weird but wonderful weather. :p |
Lars, are you talking about the charcoal tin can looking POS that sits on the battery pan floor? If so it uses a rubber band strap to hold it down.
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Yup...that's it Mark
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I am open to ideas...SmileWavy |
Might bit chilly here
And the shop takes a while to heat up at 0 degrees F. I finished the catch tank bracket
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389059376.jpg And located mounting points where I could have access to the drain on the bottom if necessary. On my race car it would fill quickly, so I had to both relocate and completely change my plumbing. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389059490.jpg This is how she mounts up http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389059543.jpg And installed. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389059578.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389059602.jpg It takes an otherwise clean engine compartment landscape and "dirties" it up a bit. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389060243.jpg I may need to replace the "uphill" line from the tank with a loop to try to keep liquid slosh from being shuttled up to the catch tank...and allow the gasses to pass. We'll see...I still think it is better than drilling a port in the aluminum top of one of the aircleaners. Went ahead and added DOT 3 and applied a small amount of pressure to the brake fluid reservoir after capping the overflow. Nice thing about DOT 3 is it removes paint very well. Bad thing about DOT 3 is it removes paint ...very well. As I don't yet know the correct transition point through the inner fender for the overflow, I ran a long tube down through the left side rubber drain in the front suspension pan. I got the front brakes to purge ok, but the rears required some brake pedal work. I think the pressure bleeders work well when there is already brake fluid in the system. As mine was completely dry, and with a rebuilt dry master cylinder...it needed some manual help. Ultimately went around the four corners twice. No bubbles and a nice firm pedal. My E-brake was pulling, but not catching. I first thought that I needed to tighten up the cables into the hubs...glad I didn't do that. It wasn't the tension on the cables at the hubs. Seems like the "catch" that is activated by the push button (on the lever arm) was missing the teeth on the ratchet. Crap. This would have been much easier to address with the seats out...and the seat belts out of the way. I took no pics, but will describe what I found and how it was fixed. First I had to remove the carpet, the rubber cover and the mechanism. All the components were there, but the teeth part of the assembly was not seated. There was no way for me to seat the teeth without disassembling the entire assembly. Once disassembled the clearance to seat the teeth part was still not there. The wire contact at the back of the E-brake that tells the warning light on the speedo if the E-brake is still on...needs to be removed. Pain with both seats in place...but doable. Removed the contact by removing a small set screw on the passenger side of the lever. Set it aside. This gives you enough room to set the gear with the teeth into it's detent, assemble the brake arm, cold start lever, and heater valve lever. Once everything is reassembled, you reinstall the E-brake contact with the set screw (mirrors help) and reinstall the entire assembly to the top of the tunnel. PIA and best done on a bench. I just didn't notice when I rebuilt the E-brake assembly that the "catch" was missing the teeth. Done. The brakes are firm, the E-brake works, and the oil tank vent is vented. Battery, oil and fuel are next. Plus a full page of stuff that I keep coming up with. It is so much easier to build cars as outlaws...just using stuff off the shelves. This correct-compliance stuff wears me down. If the temps warm up, and the snow drifts melt...we may get some action shots shortly. Like me washing the car :eek: Speedo |
We are having unseasonable cold weather here, no car washing for me. I will watch for your brake fluid over flow solution. I cked my 73 and it's not factory, so be sure you figure out the Oficial factory solution so I can copy you.
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I am running out of excuses...not to fire this thing up
Temperature (meaningfully cold) is a decent solid excuse. Picked up my Interstate UA911 battery today,
so that, and oil get added this weekend. I need to swap out the tach for a correct tach, and install the pass mirror...not big deals. I see that the right rear spring plate needs to be tweaked (again), and the bumper trim needs to be installed. With the battery in place I can see if I have 12 volts where I need 12 volts. Close... Speedo |
I don't know about you guys in the rest of the country...
Forget about global warming or climate change. We have global wind-ing here. Windiest I can remember...and it doesn't go away. We have had 75-100 mph winds repeatedly. They used to come at night with weather moving in when the jet stream drops down, but now we are getting the winds during the day. Just brutal. I live at 8100 ft on the top/side of a large hill. I inherited two nice Rubbermaid trash cans last night. One ended up in my front yard against a tree, and the other got stuck in my slash snowfence...like fish in a net. Describe them and they are yours. Otherwise...finders, keepers :D
So the battery thing...by the way I did adjust the right rear spring plate and I think once I get the negative camber set in my suspension I will be ok. I should have rolled the fender lip before paint ...my bad :( I don't remember when I got the car if there was even a battery in it...much less where it was located and if or how it was secured. Seems like the correct or previous mount attached back to here http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389574109.jpg The upper section is gone and I don't currently have a car on site that I can check. Lower part of the latch is in place...we'll work backwards. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389574226.jpg This needs to be held in place, and I need to make sure there is NO WAY that the positive terminal can go to ground (touch the top of the battery box...3/8ths of an inch away) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389574302.jpg So I have a strap in mind. This is the rear collar that will attach at the nub in the rear. I need to use some 1/8th inch flat stock for the strap. Now to create a hinge http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389574492.jpg Need to coax the flat stock around the steel bar http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389574638.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389574727.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389574758.jpg And now create the front side receptacle for the lower latch http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389574812.jpg |
I think this is going to work...
Massaged into shape...no the wind hasn't died down, but thanks for asking :rolleyes:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389575911.jpg Still measuring. The latch need to be firm enough to secure the battery, but not so firm as to stress the components to failure. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389576004.jpg Pretty much ready for primer and paint http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389576063.jpg So now the finishing details...cleaned up http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389576143.jpg And installed. In an ideal world I would have created a hinge at the front 90 degree turn where it drops down over the front of the battery to catch the latch. My design made the install of the battery a bit tight. With a hinge at the front, the install would have been a little easier. Notwithstanding, it is firm, served it's purpose and isn't going anywhere. I am curious how my design compares to the original latch. If the OEM version makes mine look like a POS...you don't need to respond. I am eating enough dirt in my life as it is. I actually am learning to like the taste. :p http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389576483.jpg Now my favorite part :confused: sorting through the electrics. Speedo |
Working on 'lectrical stuff
So with the battery hooked up and my confidence at an artificially high (but unjustifiable) level, I ended up with my flasher relay working (all the time) and gauge lights...oh yeah, my clock too. Not a bad place to start...no smoke at least :)
Time to sort through the wiring...I like taking things apart http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390788549.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390788914.jpg So I realized that access to the wiring and relays behind the panel would be simpler if the gauges were not in the way. I found a couple problems which were subsequently fixed. In the process I replaced my incorrect tach with a correct one that needed a bezel restoration...this one needs it. Taped off the glass and sanded down the oxidized bezel http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390789167.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390789193.jpg And Voila http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390789292.jpg So I now have running lights, turn signals (that don't blink), brake lights and... I installed the rear lid lip and my license plate holder. Reminds me that I need to get a title in my name and some temp plates :confused: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390789984.jpg Whining. I hate whining. Unless it is a CDI that means I have power to the engine compartment :D Whoohoo. I need to check and see if I now have power to my fuel pump. If so, next weekend I am going to fire this beast up. Beer will be provided...but bring your multi-meters as I am not out of the woods with electrics...just yet http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390790197.jpg I just want to fire the damn thing up and see what it feels and sounds like... Speedo |
I love the idea and execution for the battery strap!!! I put an Odyssey 925 in mine recently and have a block wedged in next to it to take up the slack on the factory mounting strap. I was going to take mine out and figure out what to replace it with, and this looks like a great plan.
I dont suppose you would be willing to make another one for a nominal fee if I provide the dimensions of the battery?? I imagine you may have a micro cottage industry making these for those of us that want to use a smaller gel battery in the stock location and NOT spend $160 on a modern-looking battery mount or relocating it to the smugglers box!! Let me know! |
Battery strap...
The strap is so "cut and fit X 5". Get yourself some 1/8th X 1 stock and figure out what you need. I only showed a few iterations of what it took. There were a lot of behind the scenes "oh crap...this isn't going to work"...what do I do now?
So I am ironing out the minutia on my punch list. Still have issues with headlights/relays and my glovebox lamp...as well as my relay for flashers and turns. The car was not a driver when I picked it up, but it had been serviced by a local shop...from whom I bought it. I don't see anything particularly weird or bastardized with the wiring, but I do have ghosts. Wiring tends to sort itself out for me...in many cases I have chased down a wiring dilemma only to find and fix something else that I didn't even know was wired incorrectly. I replaced the potentially bad relays for the lights and still no luck. Rather than pull my hair out on the electrical stuff...need small successes in the interim. Gauges and correct tach back in. Brake pedal went to the floor again so I "pressure bled " all four corners again....few more bubbles. No brake fluid anywhere on the floor, so I am going to guess that the air takes a while to work it's way through a completely new system. Lots of places for it to hide. I needed to install the bumper end new aluminum trim... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1391400276.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1391400333.jpg I used screws instead of aluminum pop rivets. The "professors" say rivets, but my bumpers had the speed nuts in place so I used screws. I have yet to install the side deco as it covers the tbar covers. And until I am sure my ride height is cool (and I don't have to index the tbars ...again), I am reluctant to install the deco permanently. I did find the title, and in Colorado you can avoid two bad things by purchasing 5 yr antique plates...1) I avoid the 350 lb mean female manager at the emissions facility to get my tags, and 2) I avoid the same female for the next five years. No emissions if I pay for the five years up front. Now it is a leap of faith for me to think that I will actually fall in love with this car and have it for the next five years, :rolleyes: but to know that I will never again have to deal with my painter....and at least with this car, avoid the "she-monster" at emissions is worth it. So here we are with the new correct stickers on the rear latch panel http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1391401412.jpg And plates...whoohoo. My late afternoon artistic effort. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1391401539.jpg Nine quarts of oil, disconnect the coil and we attempt to turn the engine over to bring up the oil pressure...great, no starter. Jack the car up and check for 12 volts at the starter and get zero volts. Ok, I can deal with this. I'm not discouraged. Good news is I have no static oil leaks. I like challenges...keep the faith. We have 12 inches of snow, and bitter cold. By the time I figure out my electrical issues...maybe the snow will have melted, and it will be warmer...keep the faith! Speedo |
Brake pedal firmness...
If anyone has a style of pump that runs quiet, you may like this method to bleed. You'll need a T in line for pressure guage, and a bolt in line that you turn to leak enough pressure to drop to ~ 15 lbs. The reservoir is good for 20 + lbs, but not to push that. So, the last item is an extra cap - to drill out just enough - to wedge in a tire valve with wd40. Cap may need a rubber gasket but doesn't have to be 100% tight. Rag under master.. Double check that pressure is not at 50 psi. Top off, attach hose....type that 'stays' on a tire valve - so pressure is steady w/ you at wheels.. A clear vinyl hose over bleeder to collect, and small wrench. 2 - 3 seconds per wheel. ...............................http://i58.tinypic.com/av22qt.jpg |
Go Lars go!
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Sorg did not come by her name for no reason. She will fight you to the end, but at some point she will succumb. Nice to see they color coordinated the tag for your car.
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Duckworth...that was cool....good idea
I have a commercial pressure bleeder that I pressurize to 10 psi and attach to the reservoir. Bleeding all four twice takes five minutes. Jacking and stacking the car on jackstands takes a bit longer. My electric drill-driver died so I had to undo all 20 lug lugnuts by hand :eek:
I had the DMV custom screen print the plates for me...sweet folks. Apparently better than the DMVs in California? But the emissions monsters here...are rejects from bad 1960's Godzilla movies SmileWavy Love you guys.... Chris and Josh are coming up to help me sort electrical gremlins this weekend...I think. I tried to guilt them...tepid interest. When I suggested beer...there was a spark :D However, now it is really winter. Foot of snow in the unplowed driveway and butt-chilling temps. We may do the run-in from the garage...boring, but safer than new performance tires on a freshly restored car on snowy roads...we'll see. Closer. Speedo |
its maybe a bit late now, but want to ask anyway...
when I see this, I was wondering why you didnt clean up that area, getting rid of the bitumen, especially to the top right in the picture, whyle it was acessible, just to be sure, there is no mor rust under it? all that fine work and leaving this so nasty? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313358054.jpg |
Good point...great timing too!
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Shake your head :rolleyes:, Frown :(, deduct points :eek:, or better yet, have lunch with my painter :). The area seemed seemed ok so I left it alone...shame on me. Speedo |
the factory underseal is amazing stuff, if intact. kinda one of those ' if it ain't broke, don't fix it ' deals. and let's be honest, after we do these cars, they'll never see anything like the conditions they've seen for the last forty years.
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Simply stunning work!
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I hope your last post was with tongue firmly in cheek.
When you are ready to part with this sexy beast (as you have said you may not be able to hold her for 5 years), I need to know. I want dibs. I love this car. I would gladly put off the Ferrari 328 I was thinking about to get this. Please, please let me know. |
So I got the benefit of some help last weekend
Help at this stage of the game is kind of like a "spot" when you are bench pressing some weight that is going to allow for less than five safe reps. You get to four...and you may be able to pull off one more...but it is pretty embarrassing to end up with the bar on your chest. Josh was my psychological "spot" for the electrical issues I was having. Not to go into great detail, but I had succeeded in giving myself (Sorg) running lights and brake lights. No turns, no flashers, no head lights. No big deal, just drive in a straight line during the day :D
I was frustrated as I have been poring over the wiring diagrams...convinced that I had a wire going to ground. When he arrived...we decided to remove the trunk blower to give better access to the back of the panel/instruments. PIA but it gave me good visual access to what I needed to get at. The problems I was facing in no particular order...1) blowing the #1 fuse in my front fuse box when I pulled on the light switch (which is for the clock, glove box light and then all the rest of the power for the instruments), 2) my flasher relay which was the first thing to respond when I hooked up the battery...no longer responds, 3) I have no headlights...4) the glovebox light that used to work, no longer works. I have removed the headlights to check the wiring and all was correct. I checked the chassis of the glovebox light and it seemed to be hooked up correctly. So we started to check things slowly and make sure that they (per the wiring diagrams) were hooked up correctly. Nothing glaringly wrong. We discovered a few (three wires) coming out of the six pin plug behind the blower mechanism that go to nothing, that we couldn't identify. Move on...to the glove box light, and small victory, checking and rechecking the spades and switch...works. While checking the connections on the back of the ignition switch and light switch, (crammed into the drivers footwell on my back with limited movement)...which seemed ok, I noticed the three plugs that were plugged into the firewall that made me wonder if they were all plugged into the correct six pin bases. We decided that the first six pin with the shortest wires was probably ok. But the length of the wires on the second two would allow them to be swapped. Management huddle and we decided to swap the #2 and #3 six pin plugs. Hey, we had fire extinguishers on hand. Josh just believed me...but I really did. Voila! Headlights. Whoohoo. How easy was that? How could they have been reversed? I don't want to know the answer to that as I might have been involved...or not. So with headlights ...we moved aft to the other problem I haven't mentioned. No starter. We jumpered the yellow trigger wire to the solenoid and got the starter to turn. Great news. So the problem then appears to be in my ignition switch. Checking it carefully it was obvious that the key would turn to allow it to rotate all the way... to key the starter. Josh waved goodbye and I decided to take the damn ignition out...again. Problem was inside the ignition switch. I disassembled it again and the last twist of the key to allow it to push against the spring (and trigger the solenoid) was not happening. I have since sourced a new ignition and a new relay for the starter. It is a three day weekend...."Phoenix will rise from the ashes"! More likely, with a little help from the weather, Sorg will come alive. I have a lot of snow in my driveway that needs to melt. I am not a fan of "running a new engine in" stationary. I think driving the car...accelerating and decelerating is a better way to break in a new engine, and settle the rings. I live in the mountains...no better way than driving "up this hill and down". We'll see how this weekend fares....warmer weather, but it is still winter in Colorado at 8100 ft. |
You definitely have persistence I'll give you that. I think I would have pushed it off a cliff by now. Good luck w your three day weekend. We are being hit w another major snow, read ice, storm here and I am at home w three girls and cabin fever.
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Three day weekend...
Sourced a new (used) ignition and a relay. Napa claimed they didn't have it, but when I brought the bad relay by, they had a dead on replacement. Gutted the ignition to rekey (again :() the ignition to my key. I'm getting good at rekeying ignitions. Took longer to get the damn thing reinstalled in the dash, than to rekey it. Ignitions get installed before the dash facia goes on. Removing and reinstalling the ignition with the facia on is...well, challenging. So with the ignition installed, and with the new relay in place...cross my fingers
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392512021.jpg I now have operational headlights. No flashers yet ... and I blew the #2 fuse, oh well I can figure this out...hope I didn't scorch my new flasher relay. Big question remains...can my rekeyed ignition turn far enough to key the starter. Small prayer...drum roll...'nother longer prayer, turn the key and we have starter!! Whoohoo! It sounded a bit enemic, but after all the testing of the lights with the new battery, it should be weak so I put it on the charger overnight. I still face this obstacle http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392512346.jpg And this one that has a sloppy 18 inch drift at the bend I have been driving through in my truck http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392512428.jpg No way I am going to get out of my driveway. I noticed a small oil drip coming from my sump plate so I re-torqued the bolts. New engine has never been warmed up. Fresh oil and cold case...I can expect a drip or two. Need some afternoon satisfaction...some sense of accomplishment. Ah ha! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392512625.jpg Centercaps. I ordered some nice painted caps off the board. When they arrived, the description was fair...so I took them out to see how they would look installed. Unfortunately, they were not for fuchs. Ring type, but the ring was too small. Must be for a later year. Crap, they would have looked nice. Finally got the seller to agree to take them back. I looked at my box of misfit spares...slim pickins. These were the best I had. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392512880.jpg As my dog would say...ruff, ruff ruff The worst offender http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392512950.jpg I have had good luck just sandblasting them and polishing. Sandblasted http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392513016.jpg Polished http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392513047.jpg Installed...small victory for today http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392513086.jpg Tomorrow with a strong battery, I am contemplating adding a few gallons of fuel to the mix and seeing if I can get the engine to fire up. I need to double check the baseline settings for the zeniths, but I think I am ready. If I can get it to fire, I will immediately shut it down and wait for a clear driveway and dry roads to bed the rings. Or I could just run it the requisite 20 minutes in the garage, but what is the use? I want to drive the dang thing. Speedo |
It was a good day.
My driveway still looks like crap. I shoveled the peaks and valleys to try to gain a smooth egress, but it was warm and windy and the snow is melting. If I was to be able to get the car to the end of the driveway, it would be a muddy miracle. Discouraged, I went into prep mode. Get the shop cleaned up so the car can be at least moved to the door...and get the car ready so when the time comes, it will be... ready. The oil leak under the sump is still there, smaller at least. I will make sure I have a couple extra gaskets available for the first oil change after the first drive. New gaskets ought to fix that. With just the starter operating, I get a little bit of oil pressure. No light appears and disappears (which could be yet another wiring dilemma), or I actually have some oil pressure. I added a few gallons of fuel, checked for the sound of my pump and noticed that I have fuel in my engine compartment filter.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392689251.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392689289.jpg Good sign. The bad sign was that while I was checking under the car for bad stuff...leaks, there was a gas leak that turned out to be nothing more than an "uncrushed" crush washer. After jacking the front of the car up, crushing the washer and lowering the car, with the pump "pumping", the leak was gone. Checked the dizzie and plug wires one last time. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392689504.jpg Sergeant "fire putter-outer" at the ready...yeah I am a bit nervous. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392689635.jpg Feels like we are ready. Long time coming. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392689746.jpg Here we go... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392689814.jpg The plan is to get the car running, idling well enough to do the 20 minute drive to bed the rings. Also running well enough to get out of my driveway. So I key the starter and we pop a bit. I put the battery on a charger while I crank. Check the dizzie and #1 and I am not on the compression stroke. I sort the dizzie so that at TDC I am on compression on #1....more pops. Pull the air cleaners to make sure I am getting fuel in all the throats. The mixture adjustment and air bypass have all been preset. I re-adjust the dizzie with the crank to get close to where it ought to be...and it fires up! Won't idle for crap, but it loves higher RPMs. Take about an hour to sort the Zeniths, bit different than Webers, but the key is to balance both sides and then sort each side one throat at a time. Using the synchrometer to go barrel by barrel. Re-set the idle and do it again. Got the timing pretty well dialed in. My idle jets are 45s and I am wondering if I should punch them out to 50s. Any Zenith experts out there? Seems as though they were running a bit lean at idle. Engine seems strong...sounds strong. Just to get it sorted at idle, I have 15 minutes on it. As soon as I can get it out of the driveway, it will get another 15-20 minutes on it, then an oil change. I am psyched. It was all meant to come down to this....funny, this was an engine at 3000 rpm taken with a cheap camera...looks like the fan is stopped. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392690628.jpg On an aside...the exhaust blew a 5 gallon bucket of mice bedding for the entire time the carbs were getting dialed in. Amazing! this stuff must have been way up inside the SSIs. Their low-income housing just got moved http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392690787.jpg :D |
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Almost
There. |
congrats.... epic thread!
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hooray - congrats!
beautyful! |
She's a driver.
I called Hagerty today and asked to bump "Sorg" up to full coverage. They needed pictures. I asked if they would at least temporarily grant me full coverage while I broke in the engine...no. Ok, I guess the shop pics covered in dust were not adequate. So to get good (better) pics I would need to back her out of the garage and at least wash. Well we are starting ok...but the clutch was waaay out of adjustment. Jack her up, adjust, lower and test. Still out of adjustment...so repeat. Got the clutch and shifter fairly well dialed in, so we backed out of the garage. The weather was looking worse. I don't like washing cars when it is warm, much less when it is about to snow. Screw it, the temp has dropped to close to 30 degrees. That means the mud and slush in the driveway (from the 62 degrees peak temperature today) has probably started to freeze. I'm going driving...Sorg agreed.
We drove a few miles out to my typical photo-shoot point (at least on sunny warm days) and I snapped a couple (few), well actually several of the dirty car... we are now on better terms. :D http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392859065.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392859106.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392859125.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392859146.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392859163.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392859181.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392859211.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392859228.jpg Yeah...in the last pic it appears that I an going uphill at zero RPMs. I can fix that :) |
Gorgeous!
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My chief photgrapher...
She heard the car and saw me heading out of the driveway with the top off, windows down and no coat or gloves. Thinking quickly she grabbed her Iphone so that she would have compelling evidence for either the Sheriff, or the insurance company.
A couple long distance shots to prove the car was actually in self propelled motion. The fact that the pictures are both not centered and blurred would suggest that the car was travelling so quickly that it was difficult to capure the still "centered" image...at velocity. Go with that. At least the landscape isn't blurred. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392859764.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392859802.jpg We could have waited or zoomed here, but hey, it's an Iphone. Supposed to be primarily for "selfies". http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392860265.jpg Pics are getting better http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392860362.jpg Coming home...no, I'm not happy http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392860435.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392860805.jpg Back through the ice rink http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392860861.jpg Tucked back into the shop http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392861003.jpg Then the snow started http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392861071.jpg Whew... Mark, I won...you owe me a beer! :D |
Oh, I forgot to mention...it is time to explain
The car's name is Sorg...short for "Sorgenkind". Use Google translate...it will make sense. She was named differently until my painter got his hands on her. Maybe with a little quality time, I will rename her something more...feminine. Or at least something less critical.
Speedo |
Beautiful. I'm toasting you with a glass of whiskey right now.
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You named it after your new favorite band?
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6uKvy4qs61I&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D6uK vy4qs61I |
GOTCHA!!!!:D
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1392865296.jpg seems like an awful lot of work.............especially for a targa :rolleyes: . |
Damn, you did beat me. Beers on me. Congrats!
Edit, what size tires you running? |
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