Time to dig in...softie conversion

[Matt Monson]

You're a dork. But you are my kind of dork.

[merbesfield]

Your even a good artist! Great work and thanks for the tip. I'm sure I would not have though of that one.

[durangoflat6]

Nice Work!!!!!!!!! I was wondering if you have ever heard of a guy named Merek Mallik AKA Mark Mallik. I bought his 68 T here in Durango from a second party. Would like to talk to him. He brought the car to the U.S. From Poland, I have the shipping papers that show he was the owner from new. I used to live up there in Lafayette and have friends in Louisville, when I come up next would like to meet you and have a beer. Hope you had a good Christmas. Thank you for your time.

[speedo]

I am not familiar with the guy...but I try to keep my head down. Stay in the alley out of the light. You are welcome at my shop anytime. Just give me some "heads up" in advance. Getting close to firing up the engine. Working on finishing up electrical, gas, oil and brakes. Yeah the important stuff. Been a long haul. Funny, the new name "Sorgenkind" has stuck. Makes a lot of sense ....to me

[speedo]

The punchlist is now getting shorter. The bakelite plug for the gas tank fuel sender has been replaced (always good to know how little gas you have) and the charcoal canister was waiting for a nice heavy strip of velcro to get latched down. Funny, that always appeared to me to be an after thought...sort of an "well we probably want to add this to the evaporative system, where should we put it and how do we hold it down? Velcro was just invented, lets use that". Anyway, those two are done. I have been quietly fighting the engine wiring harness and the electrical panel in the engine compartment. Wiring issues are kind of like personal problems...you only admit them to close friends, or at least people that you respect not to bust your chops and embarrass you. So I didn't want to bore the thread, and decided to keep my ignorance off-campus. I am almost done...but I still have some stray wire questions. Feel free to comment, but please don't tell me to just "re-read the wiring diagram"...I already have been *****-slapped for that one.
70-71 engine compartment wiring questions
I also need to deal with the oil hoses...breather to fill neck, and tank to carbs. No real easy way to carve up the carbs, so I decided to incorporate an auxiliary vent tank. I use one of these in my race car and it works fine.

I need to fabricate a bracket that will support the reservoir, and also position it such that if and when I need to drain it ...I can have access. I have this bracket...not sure where it came from. Maybe something from a CIS car for the fuel accumulator? Or the heater blower? Anyway...it volunteered and it is going to take one "for the team".

Too much material here...need to reduce.

Trimmed up a bit

This is how it is going to work

I will pretty it up and show the install and plumbing tomorrow.
Tomorrow will be fluids day. Brakefluid, and oil. And hope for no leaks. I am going to hold off on petrol till we are ready to start it. Not far now...might make cars and coffee in February. I am impressed I can still focus. Skied this morning and mountain biked this afternoon...60 degrees in Boulder. Weird but wonderful weather.

[merbesfield]

Lars, are you talking about the charcoal tin can looking POS that sits on the battery pan floor? If so it uses a rubber band strap to hold it down.

[speedo]

Originally Posted by merbesfield

Lars, are you talking about the charcoal tin can looking POS that sits on the battery pan floor? If so it uses a rubber band strap to hold it down.

I am missing the strap. Maybe someone has an extra? Or I can check around for repros. I went to all the trouble to complete the damn system...I may as well make it look authentic. I am also looking for the proper exit for the brake fluid reservoir overflow. Me thinks it exits the inner fender wall and drains into the left front wheel area. Anybody have a pic? Also still contemplating the side terminal battery of choice that fits the drivers side 8.25x 7.125 battery box. Thread on ESR was inconclusive.
I am open to ideas...

[speedo]

And the shop takes a while to heat up at 0 degrees F. I finished the catch tank bracket

And located mounting points where I could have access to the drain on the bottom if necessary. On my race car it would fill quickly, so I had to both relocate and completely change my plumbing.

This is how she mounts up

And installed.


It takes an otherwise clean engine compartment landscape and "dirties" it up a bit.


I may need to replace the "uphill" line from the tank with a loop to try to keep liquid slosh from being shuttled up to the catch tank...and allow the gasses to pass. We'll see...I still think it is better than drilling a port in the aluminum top of one of the aircleaners.
Went ahead and added DOT 3 and applied a small amount of pressure to the brake fluid reservoir after capping the overflow. Nice thing about DOT 3 is it removes paint very well. Bad thing about DOT 3 is it removes paint ...very well. As I don't yet know the correct transition point through the inner fender for the overflow, I ran a long tube down through the left side rubber drain in the front suspension pan. I got the front brakes to purge ok, but the rears required some brake pedal work. I think the pressure bleeders work well when there is already brake fluid in the system. As mine was completely dry, and with a rebuilt dry master cylinder...it needed some manual help. Ultimately went around the four corners twice. No bubbles and a nice firm pedal.
My E-brake was pulling, but not catching. I first thought that I needed to tighten up the cables into the hubs...glad I didn't do that. It wasn't the tension on the cables at the hubs. Seems like the "catch" that is activated by the push button (on the lever arm) was missing the teeth on the ratchet. Crap. This would have been much easier to address with the seats out...and the seat belts out of the way. I took no pics, but will describe what I found and how it was fixed.
First I had to remove the carpet, the rubber cover and the mechanism. All the components were there, but the teeth part of the assembly was not seated. There was no way for me to seat the teeth without disassembling the entire assembly. Once disassembled the clearance to seat the teeth part was still not there. The wire contact at the back of the E-brake that tells the warning light on the speedo if the E-brake is still on...needs to be removed. Pain with both seats in place...but doable. Removed the contact by removing a small set screw on the passenger side of the lever. Set it aside. This gives you enough room to set the gear with the teeth into it's detent, assemble the brake arm, cold start lever, and heater valve lever. Once everything is reassembled, you reinstall the E-brake contact with the set screw (mirrors help) and reinstall the entire assembly to the top of the tunnel. PIA and best done on a bench. I just didn't notice when I rebuilt the E-brake assembly that the "catch" was missing the teeth.
Done. The brakes are firm, the E-brake works, and the oil tank vent is vented.
Battery, oil and fuel are next. Plus a full page of stuff that I keep coming up with. It is so much easier to build cars as outlaws...just using stuff off the shelves. This correct-compliance stuff wears me down. If the temps warm up, and the snow drifts melt...we may get some action shots shortly. Like me washing the car

Speedo

[merbesfield]

We are having unseasonable cold weather here, no car washing for me. I will watch for your brake fluid over flow solution. I cked my 73 and it's not factory, so be sure you figure out the Oficial factory solution so I can copy you.

[speedo]

Temperature (meaningfully cold) is a decent solid excuse. Picked up my Interstate UA911 battery today,
so that, and oil get added this weekend. I need to swap out the tach for a correct tach, and install the pass mirror...not big deals. I see that the right rear spring plate needs to be tweaked (again), and the bumper trim needs to be installed. With the battery in place I can see if I have 12 volts where I need 12 volts. Close...


Speedo

[speedo]

Forget about global warming or climate change. We have global wind-ing here. Windiest I can remember...and it doesn't go away. We have had 75-100 mph winds repeatedly. They used to come at night with weather moving in when the jet stream drops down, but now we are getting the winds during the day. Just brutal. I live at 8100 ft on the top/side of a large hill. I inherited two nice Rubbermaid trash cans last night. One ended up in my front yard against a tree, and the other got stuck in my slash snowfence...like fish in a net. Describe them and they are yours. Otherwise...finders, keepers
So the battery thing...by the way I did adjust the right rear spring plate and I think once I get the negative camber set in my suspension I will be ok. I should have rolled the fender lip before paint ...my bad
I don't remember when I got the car if there was even a battery in it...much less where it was located and if or how it was secured. Seems like the correct or previous mount attached back to here

The upper section is gone and I don't currently have a car on site that I can check. Lower part of the latch is in place...we'll work backwards.

This needs to be held in place, and I need to make sure there is NO WAY that the positive terminal can go to ground (touch the top of the battery box...3/8ths of an inch away)

So I have a strap in mind. This is the rear collar that will attach at the nub in the rear. I need to use some 1/8th inch flat stock for the strap. Now to create a hinge

Need to coax the flat stock around the steel bar



And now create the front side receptacle for the lower latch

[speedo]

Massaged into shape...no the wind hasn't died down, but thanks for asking

Still measuring. The latch need to be firm enough to secure the battery, but not so firm as to stress the components to failure.

Pretty much ready for primer and paint

So now the finishing details...cleaned up

And installed. In an ideal world I would have created a hinge at the front 90 degree turn where it drops down over the front of the battery to catch the latch. My design made the install of the battery a bit tight. With a hinge at the front, the install would have been a little easier. Notwithstanding, it is firm, served it's purpose and isn't going anywhere. I am curious how my design compares to the original latch. If the OEM version makes mine look like a POS...you don't need to respond. I am eating enough dirt in my life as it is. I actually am learning to like the taste.

Now my favorite part sorting through the electrics.

Speedo

[speedo]

So with the battery hooked up and my confidence at an artificially high (but unjustifiable) level, I ended up with my flasher relay working (all the time) and gauge lights...oh yeah, my clock too. Not a bad place to start...no smoke at least
Time to sort through the wiring...I like taking things apart


So I realized that access to the wiring and relays behind the panel would be simpler if the gauges were not in the way. I found a couple problems which were subsequently fixed. In the process I replaced my incorrect tach with a correct one that needed a bezel restoration...this one needs it. Taped off the glass and sanded down the oxidized bezel


And Voila

So I now have running lights, turn signals (that don't blink), brake lights and...
I installed the rear lid lip and my license plate holder. Reminds me that I need to get a title in my name and some temp plates

Whining. I hate whining. Unless it is a CDI that means I have power to the engine compartment
Whoohoo. I need to check and see if I now have power to my fuel pump. If so, next weekend I am going to fire this beast up. Beer will be provided...but bring your multi-meters as I am not out of the woods with electrics...just yet

I just want to fire the damn thing up and see what it feels and sounds like...

Speedo

[IslandHopper]

I love the idea and execution for the battery strap!!! I put an Odyssey 925 in mine recently and have a block wedged in next to it to take up the slack on the factory mounting strap. I was going to take mine out and figure out what to replace it with, and this looks like a great plan.

I dont suppose you would be willing to make another one for a nominal fee if I provide the dimensions of the battery?? I imagine you may have a micro cottage industry making these for those of us that want to use a smaller gel battery in the stock location and NOT spend $160 on a modern-looking battery mount or relocating it to the smugglers box!!

Let me know!

[speedo]

The strap is so "cut and fit X 5". Get yourself some 1/8th X 1 stock and figure out what you need. I only showed a few iterations of what it took. There were a lot of behind the scenes "oh crap...this isn't going to work"...what do I do now?
So I am ironing out the minutia on my punch list. Still have issues with headlights/relays and my glovebox lamp...as well as my relay for flashers and turns. The car was not a driver when I picked it up, but it had been serviced by a local shop...from whom I bought it. I don't see anything particularly weird or bastardized with the wiring, but I do have ghosts. Wiring tends to sort itself out for me...in many cases I have chased down a wiring dilemma only to find and fix something else that I didn't even know was wired incorrectly. I replaced the potentially bad relays for the lights and still no luck.
Rather than pull my hair out on the electrical stuff...need small successes in the interim. Gauges and correct tach back in. Brake pedal went to the floor again so I "pressure bled " all four corners again....few more bubbles. No brake fluid anywhere on the floor, so I am going to guess that the air takes a while to work it's way through a completely new system. Lots of places for it to hide.
I needed to install the bumper end new aluminum trim...


I used screws instead of aluminum pop rivets. The "professors" say rivets, but my bumpers had the speed nuts in place so I used screws. I have yet to install the side deco as it covers the tbar covers. And until I am sure my ride height is cool (and I don't have to index the tbars ...again), I am reluctant to install the deco permanently.
I did find the title, and in Colorado you can avoid two bad things by purchasing 5 yr antique plates...1) I avoid the 350 lb mean female manager at the emissions facility to get my tags, and 2) I avoid the same female for the next five years. No emissions if I pay for the five years up front. Now it is a leap of faith for me to think that I will actually fall in love with this car and have it for the next five years, but to know that I will never again have to deal with my painter....and at least with this car, avoid the "she-monster" at emissions is worth it. So here we are with the new correct stickers on the rear latch panel

And plates...whoohoo. My late afternoon artistic effort.

Nine quarts of oil, disconnect the coil and we attempt to turn the engine over to bring up the oil pressure...great, no starter. Jack the car up and check for 12 volts at the starter and get zero volts. Ok, I can deal with this. I'm not discouraged. Good news is I have no static oil leaks. I like challenges...keep the faith. We have 12 inches of snow, and bitter cold. By the time I figure out my electrical issues...maybe the snow will have melted, and it will be warmer...keep the faith!

Speedo

[Duckworth]

Brake pedal firmness...

If anyone has a style of pump that runs quiet, you may like this method to bleed. You'll need a T in line for pressure guage, and a bolt in line that you turn to leak enough pressure to drop to ~ 15 lbs. The reservoir is good for 20 + lbs, but not to push that. So, the last item is an extra cap - to drill out just enough - to wedge in a tire valve with wd40. Cap may need a rubber gasket but doesn't have to be 100% tight. Rag under master.. Double check that pressure is not at 50 psi.

Top off, attach hose....type that 'stays' on a tire valve - so pressure is steady w/ you at wheels.. A clear vinyl hose over bleeder to collect, and small wrench. 2 - 3 seconds per wheel.


...............................

[mikeferg75]

Go Lars go!

[merbesfield]

Sorg did not come by her name for no reason. She will fight you to the end, but at some point she will succumb. Nice to see they color coordinated the tag for your car.

[speedo]

I have a commercial pressure bleeder that I pressurize to 10 psi and attach to the reservoir. Bleeding all four twice takes five minutes. Jacking and stacking the car on jackstands takes a bit longer. My electric drill-driver died so I had to undo all 20 lug lugnuts by hand
I had the DMV custom screen print the plates for me...sweet folks. Apparently better than the DMVs in California?
But the emissions monsters here...are rejects from bad 1960's Godzilla movies Love you guys....
Chris and Josh are coming up to help me sort electrical gremlins this weekend...I think. I tried to guilt them...tepid interest. When I suggested beer...there was a spark
However, now it is really winter. Foot of snow in the unplowed driveway and butt-chilling temps. We may do the run-in from the garage...boring, but safer than new performance tires on a freshly restored car on snowy roads...we'll see.
Closer.

Speedo

[Flojo]

its maybe a bit late now, but want to ask anyway...
when I see this, I was wondering why you didnt clean up that area, getting rid of the bitumen, especially to the top right in the picture, whyle it was acessible, just to be sure, there is no mor rust under it?
all that fine work and leaving this so nasty?