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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Newmarket, UK
Posts: 132
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Gents,
I'll be attempting my first valve adjustment MLK weekend and had a few quick questions! I ordered the Valve Cover Gasket Kit (gray one, C-105-902-00) from Pelican, and have a feeler gauge and new Bosch Platinum plugs. Are there any other items I may need for a standard adjustment? Thanks, |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Lacey, WA. USA
Posts: 25,310
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Better make sure there's some beer on hand, just in case. Otherwise, you've got it covered.
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Newmarket, UK
Posts: 132
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Ah yes, I did forget to mention the 12 pack of Harp in the fridge!
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Registered
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Los Alamos, NM, USA
Posts: 6,044
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I recall a 13mm crowsfoot wrench was pretty handy.
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Registered
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Los Alamos, NM, USA
Posts: 6,044
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Also, if your feeler gage is the replaceable blades type give the nuts and screws the "Early S-man degreaseloctite treatment" to avoid having it come apart while in use above the valve train.
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Shreveport, La.
Posts: 1,710
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Oil Filter?
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Robert Stoll 83 911 SC 83 944 |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 4,403
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EXTRA BLADES! You will need them. If you don't have them, get some.
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: AZ
Posts: 8,414
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Well, even if you bugger up your valve job, at least you'll have good beer on hand!
![]() Seriously though, I am not sure if the kit from Pelican includes new washers and nylock nuts. If not, you will need to buy them separately (don't re-use the old ones). Definitely take the above advise and do the "Warren" mod to your P213, and have extra blades on hand. Also as mentioned above, get an oil filter, the (2) drain plug washers, and drain the oil first. Make sure to let the car sit overnight so the engine is stone-cold prior to the valve adjustment. Lastly, wait to install those plugs (with anti-sieze) until after your valve job, and don't remove the old ones to make turning the engine easier. Particles/debris can get knocked loose, causing the valves to not completely close, and give false clearance readings. Other than that, have fun, and let us know how it goes! |
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Registered
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sweet I am doing this and a pedal cluster rebuild...MLK week...
and maybe replace my smiley with one sitting in my garage... |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Peoples Republic of Long Beach, NY
Posts: 21,140
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Anti-Sieze----has any one heard/used Loctite Graphite 50 Anti-Seize?? Has 2X conductivity of copper anti-sieze and listed good for 900 deg. F. It's sold in 1 lb. cans. Just got a 1 lb. can of nickel anti-seize that's good for 2,400 deg. F, but is doo doo in conductivity. Hate to experment with all the brains around this place.
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Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 Last edited by RoninLB; 01-08-2002 at 07:18 PM.. |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Ky, USA
Posts: 1,128
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Here's a quick tip for the valve adjustment (for a 2.7 at least): The thread pitch on the valve adjustment screws are 1 mm. I cant remember off hand what the clearance is, I think about .32, but as a start, loosen the lock nut, bottom out the adjustment screw, and then back it off 1/3 of a turn (or what ever the actual adjustment is) and check it with the guage. After a few tries your get the right setting about every time.
Also, just did the pedal bushes last week. An easy job except for the minor hastle of unbolting the master cylinder, and getting the roll pin back in the pedal assembly. I ended up tapering the roll pin a bit to get it to go in its hole. It did not want to go. Came out with a punch and hammer. No slop at all in the pedals now ; ) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Great NorthWest
Posts: 3,948
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My only tip is to tell you to start with the exhaust valve easiest to access in order to get the "feel" of the task. So I would guess that would be #5 or #6.
This means that, when you follow the standard valve adjustment procedures, you should go to the Z1/rotor to mark for number 1, then go ahead and continue your 120degree rotations until #6 intake and exhaust are loose. Get under the car and put the gauge in, getting a good feel for what you will be doing by both seeing and feeling what you'll be up against when you go for #6 intake, etc. A hand mirror is a bit help. Do not pull the 'plugs until you are done with the task. John
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'78 Targa in Minerva Blue |
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Here's a tech tip for some. I was tired of breaking the feeler blades on the valve adj. tool. So what I did was buy the cal-van feeler gauge # 222. It has about 30 different feeler gauges that rotate in and out. I took the .004-.006 gauge and bent it the same way as the above mentioned tool. The other gauges act like a handle. It works great. I use this gauge only for adjustments. In other words, I keep the one feeler bent and I just store it in a safe place so it doesn't break. About 5 yrs and 10 adjustments and it still hasn't broke.
Try it, you'll like it!
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72 911 Although it is done at the moment, it will never be finished. |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2001
Location: North Port, FL
Posts: 342
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look up the thread on a better valve adj tool. It will give you a lot of good information and a mod to your tool to make it easier.
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Ted Stringer nuke3@juno.com '84 911 Targa aka pocketrocket RIP Working on: '80 VW Dasher Diesel w/1.6 '96 Ford F250HD Diesel 4X4 |
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Home of the Whopper
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While you're in there you might want to check your cam timing. To check it you only need a dial gage and holder. To adjust it is another story!
Have fun! BK |
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