Who has rebuilt their 3.6? Can you share your build breakdown?
 

I'm planning on rebuilding my 3.6 over the winter and want to start researching the parts I'm going to need and the cost. Would like to build a better/stronger/more durable engine than stock ready for track and street. What did you do and what would you do differently? Thanks:D

Of course all the wear parts, bearings, seals etc for performance and longivity it depends on budget and intended usage

at a bar minimum, rod bolts should be upgraded to ARP or Raceware, on a bigger budget intended for more track use Pauter rods or on a bigger budget Ti GT3 rods w/ custom pistons

stock oil pump is good if in spec, better is a late GT3 oil pump

stock crank is good, but better is a GT3 crank add oiling mods for an even better setup.

you can go through all the systems in a similar manner, a $50k engine or a $5k engine can be done, it just depends

Thanks Bill, a 50k engine won't be happening but 10k would be possible. I may consider doing what Jack O did as well and just replace with a used 3.6. However if I'm going to spend 5-10k, I might as well do the rebuild and know that the engine is fresh.

Back in the day you could get a fresh low mileage engine easily, not so much these days.

I'd rebuild my current engine or buy a new one and plan on rebuilding it.

If you rebuild to stock revs and for only occasional track use, rebuild to stock spec w/ minor upgrades like rod bolts, a nice not too expensive upgrade as long as valve guides are being replaced anyway is to use larger 993RS or aftermarket ss undercut valves, RS cam for hydraulic or SS cam for mechanical followers. leave everything else stock and finish off w/ a Steve W chip. A friend has been running this setup for a year now and is very pleased w/ the package and this guy is hard to please.

On mine I regret not changing to Pauters and mech lifters when I rebuilt the 3.8. But I intended to use it more street and less track, now that it's almost track only those 2 changes are much more desireable.

Just a FYI, Chris Cervelli has some attractively priced RSR 102mm p/c sets in the classified right now

I'd agree with Bill.

Go stock, but add the RS cams, RS intakes, some racing valve springs & Ti retainers, the good ARP fasteners, and a nice DME reflash.

My engine came out at 310hp & 271 ft-lbs of torque.
It is really, really stout!

Good luck.

ps ..... even the above wasn't too cheap (but I had a shop do it)

Thanks Doug those are impressive numbers. Care to share the approx cost of the build with your setup?

About 20k, but I had many special or custom things done.
So my build is not typical, but more at the top end of the range.

The engine looks brand new....powdercoating, new fasteners, etc, etc.
I virtually have a brand new engine.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1283897257.jpg

My rebuild was essentially the same as Doug's - done two owners and about 20K miles ago. I would recommend new valve guides, Carrillo or Pauter rods, and ARP rod bolts at a minimum.

Wow! That's at the wheels?

I was at the other end of the spectrum, full race motor. 3.6 ltr, TWM throttle bodies, Elgin cams, CMW heads, JE 12.5:1 pistons, titanium intake valves, inconel exhaust valves, ARP fastening everything, Pauter rods, EFI...yadda yadda yadda....

Made 345 HP at the wheels at 9000 RPM. ;) (just shy of 400 Crank HP)

Don't ask how much it cost...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1283915027.jpg

No....that was on the dyno Jack.
Still was pretty happy with those numbers.

Yeah, been there. Made over 290 crank HP out out a 2.7L once. Fun motor. :eek:

As much as I like my RS 3.6L, there is nothing like a high compression, EFI/MFI, super light internals engine. Those motors will put your face on the ground when you lift the throttle. You only need to use the brakes when you really scare yourself or when you are coming to a complete stop - otherwise they are not necessary. Throttle steer anyone?

I know what you mean, but I have to say the 3.6 acted VERY similar. The pistons were about 1/2 the normal height and VERY light, plus the rods, crank, etc.... blip up to 9K...BAMB (4 foot flame) back to idle...just like that.

The REALLY fun part was that it was in a tube frame car with only 1600 lbs to motivate and mid engine with a dog box... painful car to drive actually as it was a full aero car with tunnels etc... 1.5 inches of suspension travel, and you felt like a mouse in a blender every lap.

I am a big short stroke, big bore fan...building just that for my Vintage RSRish car.

But back to topic, build it and go as light as you wallet feels comfortable. The stock 3.6 is a bit of a pig, drop some cash on the rods, pistons, and crank work, then have somebody go through the heads. Chris at CMW and his Dad Bob are magic with Porsche heads. You will pay but it will fly.... a custom chip and off you go... you will give 993 TT cars a run for their $$$!

Your motor sounds amazing. I agree - lightweight pistons, rods and headwork can add so much to the character of an engine. I've tried to sell my 2.7L for what it is worth, but you really need someone to experience the difference to understand. It's a whole 'nother world.