Weber float bowl baffles.. How do I secure them
 

I've tried JBWeld, gas tank two part epoxy, etc.. but the constant submersion in gasoline inevitably makes the stuff soft, then parts break off and foul up the main-jets.

Any suggestions on how to secure these things so they stay put?

Thanks,

Chris

What are they made of? If you used some type of spring stainless steel I bet they could be cut and bent to hold tension somehow. Or use a burr and dimple the bowl and make a tit on the plate too if your worried about it moving around?

Chris,
I'm just speculating, but perhaps a mechanical rather than a chemical retention method would work better in the long run.

How about cutting 3-4 thin notches with a Dremel wheel (or equivalent) into the thicker areas of the float bowl walls? (must confirm the FB walls are thick enough). Fabricate metal (stainless or aluminum) baffle plates, sized so that it wedges itself into the slots. Tension keeps it in place.

or:

Drill and tap the float bowl with 3-4 holes. Install small set screws into each threaded hole with a slot cut in the end so that they retain a baffle plate cut to size. Apply fuel resistant sealant (and lock nut) on the set screw threads. The number of set screws is variable - whatever works.

Or a combination of the above or something like that. Strive for the KISS strategy.

Sherwood

Thanks guys.

The pieces I cut do stay in pretty well with just tension, but are obviously subject to constant vibration (engine) and lubrication (fuel) so I definitely want something a little more positive.

I'm thinking mechanical is best but if I could avoid drilling it would be great. Craig, The baffles i made are aluminum, not sure about the carb body. It's a lighter cast alloy, but not sure which one... It doesn't appear to be the sort of metal one could "stake" fit something.

Since they are a tight fit, a few simple "hold downs" would work. Appreciate the input! More ideas are even better!

Not sure what the top looks like or how they fit but is there a way to attach them to the carb top (away from the fuel, rivits, bolts etc) and just have them hang in the bowls?

Craig,

Can't do that, the floats are too close to the edges of the bowl, wouldn't be room.

I'll see about sending a picture later.

I have read that Webers are made of "pot metal".....which means nothing will (solder, weld,etc....) stick to it. I share your quandry as to glue,....and not from lack of asking questions...an thus have left the baffles out.....but hope springs infernal. No help here, I'm afraid, but I am interseted.

Grooving the interior of the bowl and springing something in place should work......but doing it flawlessly 4 times is a challenge. Screwing the pooch could make expensive junk and my hands aren't what they used to be.:(

If your'e talking about the float bowl baffles on the bottom of the float bowls in your weber carbs I'm surprised you had a problem with JB Weld. That's how I put mine in 5 years ago and I've never had a problem.

Perhaps a combination of mechanical and chemical solutions:

Fuel-resistance glue:
Total Motorcycle reviews. Seal-All Glue, all-purpose contact adhesive & sealant.

Epoxy resins and polyurethane adhesives are resistant to gasoline as well.
Epoxy Resin Filter Adhesives | Polyurethane Filter Adhesives | Epic Resins - Manufacturer of Epoxy Resins | Polyurethane Compounds
Caswell Inc. - Epoxy Gas Tank Sealer

Sherwood

Kent,

I used JBWeld last go-around. After 3 months it turned "soft" to where I could make an indent pushing with a screwdriver in it.

Sherwood, thanks. What I want to find is something that's not so much "resistant" as "intended" It seems that FULL submersion takes a lot more work than if one side is exposed to oxygen. (such as fuel tank patch material.)

Is this mod a waste for street driven vehicles? I have a pair of 40 IDAs ill be working on eventually and i wonder if this is a necessary uprade since mine will probably be street for most of its life. Hopefully Paul Abbott will comment soon. I've been communicating with him through email about my carbs. It appears from his website he performs this upgrade as well as others. Maybe he'll share some of his incites on this.

The only reason I did the mod to my webers was because of problems when I autoxed the car. On hard G turns the carbs on one side would starve out and I'd come out of the turn on 3 cylinders. After the mod, no problems. For daily driving it wouldn't make any difference.

I've only been in my float bowls once in 5 years and didn't see any issues. I've also used JB weld on a crack in the bottom of my fuel tank and a crack in the chain box on my engine. No issues to this point.

I tested JB Weld, Devcon Plastic Steel (putty) and other epoxies and JB weld isn't nearly as good as the Devcon Plastic Steel but ultimately selected Devcon Plastic Titanium (putty) as the catalog says it is impervious to gasoline, alcohol and benzene. I've also heard that Jerry Woods uses Dow Corning 730 resisilent sealant.

Paul Abbott
Performance Oriented

We used Dow 730 on our E30 fuel tank crossover/equalizer pipe, ripped off by exhaust departure when loading car on trailer, and its going strong after 3 years. Not cheap stuff, but works good for fuel related sealing.

Small piece of spring steel, like the center section of a brake pad retainer trimmed a little bit then pressed into the bowl in the center. Worked for me!

I'm leaning towards the 730. I'm definitely not confident enough in my dremel skills to be carving grooves in a $2k set of webers.

The JBWeld definitely turned to "rubber". Cleaned it out this evening and then helped a buddy rebuild his CB750 carbs... Smell like old varnished gas...

Wow that 730 is pricey but if it solves the carb issues I've been having (crap in my jets causing poor running) it'll be worth it. I'll check out the others too, thanks a million for the tips folks!

Side note: JB Stick apparently will cure in gasoline but I think I tried it once. Still may give the DOW730 or a flexible sealer a try as I think the vibrations of the hard mounted carbs may be affecting the bond over time... As the little pieces shed off, they clog my main jets!
http://jbweld.net/products/jbstik.php

Float well baffles won't fix crud in your fuel bowls, in fact they will make cleaning them harder as the drain plugs are above the baffles. Also, you will need to relieve the main jet fuel supplies to allow fuel to get to the mains once the baffles are in place (baffles rest on top of the main jet castings) and relieving them will allow more crud into the mains. I discuss sources of carb debris on my web site which also shows a picture of baffle installation:
Tuning the Weber Carbs

Paul Abbott
Performance Oriented