Jacking Up Front and Rear & Thanks
 

Hi All,

I've seen plenty of threads here about how to jack up either the rear OR the front of the car, but was wondering what the safest method is for jacking up the front and rear at the same time?

I tried placing the rear on stands first (on torsion bar covers), then jacking up the front (by the torsion bar mount), but it seemed to unstable.

I need to get the car up onto axle stands and take all four wheels off so I can bleed the brakes properly.

BTW, Changed my front rotors/pads and flexible brake lines today, everything went to plan! Thanks to the board for all the hints and tips!

Cheers,

Tim.

I put the front on jack stands first by jacking up one side at a time, then jack up the rear by jacking up the engine which lifts the entire rear up at once and then place the rear jack stands on the tube covers.

Why not just do the rears first, then go to the fronts?

Jacking up a lowered car: 1. Jack up backend under engine and place jackstands under torsion tubes at there lowest settings. 2. Lower car on rear jackstands. 3. Move to front. If car's valance prevents the jack from sliding under the area of the front license plate, jack up one side by using the jacking point directly behind the front wheel well. Jack up enough to place 2 2x4's under one wheel and then lower. 4. return to front and place jack under center pan, between condensor and gas tank. Use 2x4 as weight disperal. A piece long enough to fit between the front torsion bar covers is ideal. 5. Jack this at the center and then place the two jack stands at the ends of both sides of the 2x4. I have found that because of body rigidity, placing the stands simply under the torsion bar covers usually results in one not touching. 6. Return to rear and jack up car as far as needed and raise stands. When lowering car to remove stands in the front, remember to place the 2x4's under one wheel to slide the jack out!

Sure there are many ways to do this. You just need a good floor jack, a couple of scrap 2x4's, and 4 jackstands. Make sure you choke the front wheels when you jack up the rear first. Never jack one end significantly higher than the other to create an unstable situation also.

Many may disagree, even described in DIY books, but I would not raise the car with a jack under the engine. The factory did not design this piece to be a stressed member. It's the same effect as putting the engine under a hydraulic press and loading 1400+ lbs. of pressure on one area of the engine. Something is bending, if just a little. It can't be good, even for the oil drain plate. Let's use something a little more sacrificial like the transaxle crossmember.

Sherwood Lee
http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars

I use to think so myself until I read numerous tech articles including Allan Caldwell's articles from Panorama. Just make sure it is on the center of the engine were the case bolts together and use a wood or rubber pad. If you are a PCA member, check out www.pca.org and go to technical section, suspension. Other good articles also.