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Tyson: this is not good = clutch
I replaced the pin, but it seems like after I put in a new cable (did it all together), it loosened up a bit after a day.
Now when i pounded this thing through with a hammer, it did...push inside out a little. Like those little wound up pieces of chinese paper that you fling out? it did that, but just a little. anyway...my spring was wrongly tensioned, the one by the foot pedal. i had to bend it before to get it on there, screwing up it's stop point...well that was one problem since it was always pulling a little creating tension on the whole assembly, even when clutch was at rest. I got that arced right and back on so that when the pedal is fully forward, the spring has no tension. My clutch does not feel that hard, so it can't be giving way, and I adjusted it again now today (including getting the part that connects to the clutch in cluster a few more turns so I could later adjust down below)...do clutch cables when new stretch a bit? Or should I assume I'm going to have another broken roll pin in a few months? Sorry if this message is rambling. I have a HUGE problem with the automotive vocabulary.
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I just rebuilt my pedal cluster today. That pin you speak of is a bit*h t oge to get it. It has to be pressed. I used a vise to press the pin in about 3/4 of the way and then a hammer, slight taps, until it was fully in. The full strength of the pin cannot be realized unless it has each of the rolls. Since yours came out like a chinese yo-yo, it is likely it is much weaker than required.
Did you remove the entire pedal cluster this time? The best remedy is to remove the cluster so the pin may be properly pressed in. Hate to say this. As far the clutch cable stretching, I am sure they stretch, but not in one day. Something is going on. Best of luck.
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Kurt, there's an easy way to tell if the pin is shearing. The clutch pedal arm, and the little arm at the other end of the pedal cross-shaft, (the one the clutch cable connects to, at the pedal cluster) should be at the exact same angle. They should both stick out from the cross shaft in the same trajectory. Does this make sense?
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tyson...
Let me reply to your question in the right thread.
You're right about them moving in parallel. The move together, and they are together when at rest. The hard part to evaluate as it first begins to give way is is it bending because it snaps back into parallel. With the tension, the pedal may move 2, 4, 5? mm forward bending the pin before the pin's remaining strength stops the play and pulls the clutch. This is where I'm stuck. I can't see down there and I can't evaluate it by hand (holding the cable connector and pushing the pedal) because it's still stronger than the tension I can hold with. Basically, what it boils down to is. I adjusted the attachment at the pedal, screwing it in more, then went down and got clutch tight. if i have to repeat this process a few more times, then I know I'm screwed. Plain and simple, and I'll have to get the right tool, whatever you use to install a new roll pin. Doesn't bother me I guess. it's a fun project and the more miserable experiences I have down there, the more of a man i become.
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I'm not sure what you're saying, Kurt. Are you saying there is slack between the movement of the clutch pedal arm and the cable-end arm? If so, that's bad. Pin is shearing again.
What I meant was, if the two arms aren't pointing in the exact same direction, then the pin is shearing and allowing the clutch pedal arm to move forward on the shaft in relation to the other arm. The clutch pedal arm will stay in this position, so you can see if it is off by just looking at it in the static position. If you are shearing another one, I'm at a loss as to why. How does the hole look where the clutch cable attachment pin goes through the little arm? Sometimes they are worn elongated from a failed bushing. Then when you put in a new brass bushing in the oblong hole, the bushing will gradually deform to the oblong shape, making constant readjustment necessary. Just a thought.
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yes, it's worn oblong. I thought it was supposed to be oblong. There's a bushing that goes in there as well, or just the roll pin?
what parts am I supposed to have in there? I only had the roll pin.
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No no Kurt, I'm talking about the little arm on the right. The one the cable attaches to.
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Kurt reread Tyson's last post but I think he is talking about the bushing that is used where your clutch "CABLE" is attached,not where the roll pin is installed.I screwed up my roll pin too and ended up epoxying a cobalt drill bit into the hole.the last time I had my pedals apart I just chipped the epoxy out and drove the pin out.It worked so good I never bothered to put a new roll pin in I just reuse the hardened drill bit and reseal it with a touch of epoxy.
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Grant's got a good idea there, Kurt. If indeed you are shearing yet another roll pin, it would make sense to use something a bit tougher this time.
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yeah, the one on the cable is there. That bushing is in good shape. First thing I checked was the cable connector to make sure it wouldn't pull through on me!
I'll see where she goes in a day or two and know for sure. It feels very good still. I'll post an update then. In fact, I'm gonna take her for a late night run to taco bell right now. Got some new speakers for the back seat. Sounds wicked cool. Although I have to admit, it's very difficult to be cool when you're driving around town trying to get home without a clutch. I wonder if they can give you a ticket for repeated U turns down the same stretch of road up and back while you try and time the light? Of course, I won't let it come to that.
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You know Kurt, after reading some of your posts above, I bet the pin was seating/conforming to the oblonged hole on the cross shaft that was formed when your old one sheared. hopefully it's happy now.
Taco Bell? Really? You are a braver man than I. ![]()
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Kurt, are you saying you have an oblong hole on the pedal side?
If so that will shear pins. Ask me how I know. I created an oblong hole by trying to drill out a role pin. I became expert at installing new pins. I could do it in just a few minutes. Ended up buying a new clutch pedal and haven't sheared one since.
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