Turbo Tie Rod Installation Question

[1974carrera]

I just picked up new Turbo tie rods for my 911 and have two questions about installation. 1) What is the torque for the inner tie rod joint to steering rack? 2) Since there is no provision to mechanically lock the inner joint to the steering rack, is Loctite medium strenth (blue) threadlocker the best way to secure this connection? Actually, I was surprised that there isn't a lock-tab to secure this connection. Thanks for any information on these questions.

[Tyson Schmidt]

I don't have any idea how you'd get a torque wrench on the inner tie-rod end. Just get it good and tight.

Definitely use Blue Loctite. Did your kit come with the big spacer washers? Those are necessary to prevent rack damage.

[1974carrera]

Thanks for the reply, and yes, I do have the spacers. As far as tightening the inner tie rod joint to the rack, I have a very narrow crow foot that I can use with a torque wrench. The reason I asked about a torque spec is because I'm a little spooked about that connection since there is no provision to mechanically lock it. Maybe I should make a lock tab for it, similar to what's used on Lemforder tie rods on M3's? Maybe I should use red Loctite? Maybe I'm exhibiting some sort of neurosis? Seriously, has anyone done anything to secure this connection beyond blue Loctite and good 'n tight, or is it really just a non-issue?
Thanks in advance.

[Jay Auskin]

I don't think it's possible to get an accurate torque reading using a crows foot since the axis of the torque wrench will not be over the axis of the bolt.

[Jdub]

Viertel:

Are you using the spacers? That is, is your concern that the rack-to-tie rod connection is not solid (threads showing) or simply that there is no way to lock the tierod to the rack?

I would avoid the red Loctite and stick with the blue so that down the line you've got a fighting chance to get it off without heat.

Finally, I have been told now is the time to drop the rack and regrease it. Is this in you plans?

John

[1974carrera]

Thanks John. My concern is that there is no way to lock the tie rod to the rack. On the non-Turbo tie rods, the boot collar serves to mehcnaically lock the tie rod to the rack. On other cars, e.g. BMW, with a tie rod -to-rack connection similar to the Turbo tie rod, there is a lock collar that you can bend a tab on to prevent the tie rod from ever backing out of the rack. So, I thought perhaps the Turbo tie rods used something to mechanically lock the connection and that I just didn't have it (all my parts diagrams show the non-Turbo tie rods). If the spacers used with the Turbo tie-rods were threaded, they could function like the boot collar on the non-Turbo tie rod (to provide a mechanical lock), but they're not. Perhaps my concern is unfounded, but it does seem like a critical connection to rely just on Loctite.

Thanks for the suggestion about lubing the steering rack. My factory repair manual and Bentley manual don't address this. There are numerous references in the archives about doing it, but I can't find anything procedural so guess I'll post a new thread on this. Thanks again.

[rfix'n]

I don't think it's possible to get an accurate torque reading using a crows foot since the axis of the torque wrench will not be over the axis of the bolt.

I'd like some feedback on this, I have used a crows foot in the past. You are adding length and therefore increasing the leverage so you should decrease the torque requirement. I take the percentage change from old length to new length and reduce the required torque by the same percentage. Comments?

[cmsteed]

As long as the crow foot socket is perpendicular to the axis of the wrench the torque readings will be the same as on the wrench.

To calculate the torque to set on the wrench when using an extension, use the following formula from the Snap-on tools torque wrench users manual :

torque to set on wrench = (A x T)/(A+B)

where:
A = length of torque wrench (from centre line of handle to centre line of square drive)
T = desired torque
B = extension distance parallel to handle (ie. perpendicular =0)

By the way, does anyone know of a supplier of extensions? It would come in handy for using my 100 ft-lb wrench to crank 100+ ft-lbs.

Good Luck


Chuck

[1974carrera]

My concern is that there is no way to lock the Turbo tie rod to the rack. On the non-Turbo tie rods, the boot collar serves to mehcnaically lock the tie rod to the rack. On other cars, e.g. BMW, with a tie rod -to-rack connection similar to the Turbo tie rod, there is a lock collar that you can bend a tab on to prevent the tie rod from ever backing out of the rack. So, I thought perhaps the Turbo tie rods used something to mechanically lock the connection and that I just didn't have it (all my parts diagrams show the non-Turbo tie rods). If the spacers used with the Turbo tie-rods were threaded, they could function like the boot collar on the non-Turbo tie rod (to provide a mechanical lock), but they're not. Perhaps my concern is unfounded, but it does seem like a critical connection to rely just on Loctite. Am I the only person concerned about this?

[cab83_750]

Is Loctite really necessary? I mean, using crow foot or pliers, they would stay there. And if for some reason they start to loosen, would you not notice this 'right away' as the steering while driving would become very funky!!!


???????????????????

[JWest]

To answer your question directly- no, a mechanical lock is not a part that you are missing and normally people just screw them on tight and are done with it.

There has not seemed to have been any issue, so your addition of blue locktite should be more than enough. If it bothers you, by all means make up a lock plate - should not be too hard and will ease your concerns.

[cab83_750]

Good. I have done 2 installations without the loctite. Again, using the logic of funky driving will be noticed if loosening starts t o happen.