Build or Buy Back seat sheet metal?

[atr911]

I have asked this before, but now i'm actually READY to do something.

I'm looking for advice on weather to build the back seat section out of sheet metal or if I should look for a smucked up 911 that still has good back seats that I can cut out. Last time I priced the later, the fella wanted $275 for the section (too high), but that was from a dismantler.

Help me out... if you have what I need let me know.

Either way, I'm planning on using the 3M epoxy to put the piece in, I hear its MUCH easier and less expensive than welding and actually stronger... any experiences I whould know about?

Adam Roseneck

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1978 911SC 3.0
roseneck@cyberbeach.net

[Lee]

Sorry to go off topic, but I've been trying to get a message to you for several weeks. Can you give me the routing # and the company you shipped my door and window parts with. It's been over a month, and who knows, maybe it takes that long to find Arkansas, but i'd still like to give them a call.

Help me out if you can.

Dan Crockett
shumanbeen@cs.com

[dtw]

Adam,
What are your intentions for whatever project you are working on? Is the stock appearance valuable to you? Will you be installing the rear seats, etc. again?

If you are, it's tough work- I just ripped the rear seats out of a buddy's car. He's building a partial-tube car and didn't need it.

If not, it looks like you could make a very clean, nice looking replacement from some sheet stock at much lower cost.

-d

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Dave
1972 911T (E motor) RSR replica project
http://members.nbci.com/dtwinters/garage/

[atr911]

DAN, good thing you found me cause I have alos been looking for you for a while... I'm going to email you and tell let you know whats up. Check your email

Dave, i'm not interested in installing rear seating (a stereo will be in its place) and originality isn't a big deal at all for me.

Adam Roseneck

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1978 911SC 3.0
roseneck@cyberbeach.net

[dtw]

Then Adam, I think you can do a lot better in cost and looks than buying/transplanting the original metal. In the US I've never seen that piece for sale as a new item. Although, I'm sure Porsche would sell it to you (shudder).

I'm thinking that a custom fabricated job with some clean lines would look really good back there.

-d

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Dave
1972 911T (E motor) RSR replica project
http://members.nbci.com/dtwinters/garage/

[Early_S_Man]

Adam,

Without seeing the damaged area, it is hard to criticize with certainty, but I seriously doubt that any epoxy repair will have sufficient good clean area for bonding steel to steel. This very issue was a serious problem with the 904, and was never solved, to my knowledge. In the 904, it was bonding large areas of a stamped steel subframe to fiberglass body panels, and it was not possible to completely arrest corrosion and maintain a good bond to the steel over a long timeframe.

Piecemeal replacement of the rotted areas in your car with 'cut-to-fit' repair pieces MIG'ed (wire-feed welding) in place seems a more reliable proposition, and I understand your position on 'originality' ... the strength and reliability of the MIG job will be better, period!

If the area affected is small enough, fiberglass would be better than a steel-to-steel bonded arrangement because of the much greater surface area for bonding in the replacement panel/piece.

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

[Early_S_Man]

Adam,

With the damage present in your car, it is hard to imagine that you will be able to complete the job yourself without acquiring a medium-cost MIG welding machine.

That is one reason that the above recommendation will untimately be less expensive than epoxy. If you are doing major structural repairs with MIG, the 'per-linear-foot' cost of welding using wire and gas becomes very low!
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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

[This message has been edited by Early_S_Man (edited 07-04-2001).]

[Don in Redondo]

Adam, I would recommend the use of metal based, 2 part, DEVCON epoxy, available at many of the industrial supply outlets, and widely used in the aerospace and gunsmithing industries for long term metal to metal bonds without corrosion.

Consider the use of pop-rivets where ever possible and applicable for added mechanical stability.

[Roland Kunz]

Hello

Just "make" one yourself and buy one if you get stranded. Its a big chance to build up a improved stereo by rising the level and build two enclousures for the bass. Make them rigid.

Grüsse

[CamB]

Originally posted by Roland Kunz:
Hello

Just "make" one yourself and buy one if you get stranded. Its a big chance to build up a improved stereo by rising the level and build two enclousures for the bass. Make them rigid.

Grüsse

You could even weld in custom mounting brackets for the sub box and have less compound curves to make the box fit better.



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Cameron Baudinet
1975 911S

[atr911]

As for the condition of the rear seats, the entire pannel is covered with serious corrosion and I'm assuming that close to 80% of the rear seat area will have to be replaced. If I never plan on selling the car at a profit (too many mods and repairs anyhow) would it be alright to design a repair pannel that will just be set up with 90 degree angles unstead of those damn curves? As far as I know there is only the main wiring harness atached to this part of the car. This will make the fabrication process a MUCH easier job. A friend just bought a very decent mig welder, so I'm sure I can accomplish this on my own.

On the topic of welding, can you weld two pieces at a 90, or do you need to include some support structure (angle brackets) to make it work?

I'm going to hit the drawing boards, wish me luck!

Adam Roseneck

[Don in Redondo]

90 degree angle brackets, doublers, and stiffeners are the preferred design method for joining perpedicular plates.