Removing & Replacing the AirBox In the car Part II
 

I just finished reading the 2009 3 page report on this subject and found that "Everything" I have gone through matches up perfectly right down to the idea of using a 1/4 drive swival Head "12" mm socked to deal with the dreaded #6 Intake runner.

Since I have had everything in and out of the car several times and now putting in a New Airbox I thought I would add my own fuel to the fire.

Yes droping the engine would make everything a Lot easier but that has its problems also. As one person mentioned, Dealing with 12 to 14 Quarts of Oil, Clamps that do not want to come off of Heater Boxes, and a few other things like that.

My plan is to assemble the complete Airbox and as one person said make sure the Hose Clamps are oriented to the rear of the car so that they can be reached while installed. This time the plan is to not install the runners on #2 & #4 and on #6, only put the Washers and nuts on the Runner but not tighten.

Then Install #2 & #4 in the Rubber Hoses after the Airbox is in place. My plan is to then tighten #6 using 1/4 inch drive tools and swival head sockets. The rest is easy. I put the car on my ramps so as someone said, the bumper is about waist high. I also plan to "Keep" the Socket and extension on the inside nut of #6 until everything else is tightened so I will not have to spend too much time trying to locate the Nut.

I also suggest to everyone to have several telescoping Magnets that are small and large because you will drop something and seriously need help.

Last, I nearly had Heart failure (The Lord takes care of Babies and Fools) when I pulled apart the Multi Pin Connector at the wrong place and everything came apart and the pins fell everywhere. Believe it or not, I found EVERY Pin and then reset everything and put the loose pins back in the correct places and started to breath again.