hes been a tech for many years its what he does for a living, if there is anything wrong with it he will find it, fixing it i dont know , not unless you can get parts for it, i have no idea , all i know is he is a very trustworthy guy

Well, if he can't fix it. Contact Ingo at 3.6@cox.net

Ok < DME came back from Tech, he looked at it , sawdered a couple joints he thought might be bad, he said it looks ok , that there is nothing wrong with it , put it in my car , still wont start , going to check the crank sensor now, like the DME DOC said , will keep you posted .

+1. It would be an amazing coincidence if the computer happened to go bad at the same time. Is there more to this story?

And no matter how great a tech your friend is, a visual inspection cannot confirm a properly operating DME.

Did interior guys do any welding? Do you have an aftermarket alarm? Or perhaps they found an old alarm and removed it. If they didn't remove it properly, car no start.....

The CPS is a three wire. Got a test method?

No they did no welding at all , the car had the motor installed and ran fine, i only started thmy car and drove it up on the trailer maybe 4 times, and started it in the garage about 25 times , finally got some money together to get the interior put in it , drove it off the triler into the shop , went to pick it up and wouldnt start , they didnt touch anything wire wise at all, my DME was loose in the car and they had to install the carpet so they bolted it down after carpet went in, they did disconect the battery just incase , maybe when they put it back on the terminal it gave the DME and jolt, Now this is what im facing, unbelievable

This is how she sits right now, 5 years working on her , wanted to atleast drive it for 1 weekend before all the snow comes , dosent look promisinghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1287940188.jpg

Was the DME fuse blown when you picked up car?

They won't admit it, but possibly hooked up battery backwards?

Sure there wasn't an aftermarket alarm hidden in there somewhere?

There use to be an aftermarket alarm , but was takin out before i even did the install, the car was fine, started no problem , i think they jolted the battery somehow and it sent something somewhere, yes the fuse was blown, replaced the fuse and it hasnt blown since, just the car wont start

George, did a pretty good test of what up....briefly described here. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/571435-my-own-964-no-fire-thread.html

I was able to diagnose what is wrong w/o the DME in the circuit.....fixed what was wrong.

Check the thread out. I can explain it in detail if you want to call. I sent you a PM with my Skype addy and landline.....

Ok . test this points in you DME Connector " disconnect the DME and test with multimeter"

Pin # 18 = Permanent positive 12v
Pin # 19 = Ground
Pin # 24 = Ground
Pin # 37 = Voltage from DME relay with ignition On

If everything checks fine ,then get a 12v Rated LED volt from Radio Shack , reconnect the DME to the Harness and carefully slide the harness cover from the DME connector itself .Then check :"attach the positive side of the LED to a 12V source and all testing we do next is with the negative side of the LED"

Pin # 3 = DME relay ground (this will test the negative output for the fuel pump circuit
Pin # 1 = Negative output for the Ignition modules
Pin # 17 = Injector 1 output .

LED should flash while you crank the engine ."if nothing flashes the DME is defective"

This is the basics for he motronic system to work in your car , hope this helps you to get closer to the final diagnose ,if you feel the DME is defective i will test it for free .

Jose

Ok . test this points in you DME Connector " disconnect the DME and test with multimeter"

Pin # 18 = Permanent positive 12v
Pin # 19 = Ground
Pin # 24 = Ground
Pin # 37 = Voltage from DME relay with ignition On

If everything checks fine ,then get a 12v Rated LED volt from Radio Shack , reconnect the DME to the Harness and carefully slide the harness cover from the DME connector itself .Then check :"attach the positive side of the LED to a 12V source and all testing we do next is with the negative side of the LED"

Pin # 3 = DME relay ground (this will test the negative output for the fuel pump circuit
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Pretty much what I did.....except I tested the injector at the source.

Yes testing the injectors at the source is a good thing also because you can rule out a bad lead from the DME to Injector itself .

Ok will do just that, I cant believe how smart some people are on this site , incredible !!!!!!!

Joe BOB, i was going to call you yesturday cause i had a bit of time to go out and work on it, but didnt know how long it would take so i did some other stuff instead

S ECU , Thank you so much for your input on this , i will see if i can get on it tommorrow if not i will print what you said and take my car to my mechanic and see if he can do it while im at work , if not , depending on the time i have available , ether i will do it myself, or take you up on your offer and send it to you to test for me , dosent look like i will be driving her this year anywayz, 4 summers and counting !!!!! if i do get this car running maybe i will drive to your shop and to see Joe Bob for along drive lol


Thank you so much guys

Hey No problem , hope this helps you get the car faster back on the road ..if you have any other questions just let us know .

Jose

Are both the 6-pin and the 14-pin connector from the Timmens harness securely plugged into the DME harness (close to the DME)?

What results have you gotten when measuring the presence of the +12V on the 55-pin DME connector. You need to see +12V at all times on pin 18 and +12V on pin 37 with the ignition switch in RUN.

Next connect the DME and confirm +12V for the coil and injectors:

1. With the ignition to RUN you can disconnect one injector plugs and measure inside the plug. One contact must show +12V.

2. Both screw terminals on the ignition coils need to show +12V with the ignition switched to RUN.

Ingo

Maybe I missed it but did you try a new DME relay after replacing the blown fuse?

Well I fixed mine.....nanner nanner nanner......

%^)~

BTW, I have extra DME relays if ya need one. DOH!!!!!

EXACTLY what just happened to me.....failed reference sensor (cranked but no start)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/571208-need-help-1987-3-2-wont-start.html

Reference sensor failure it's so common ,specially if the sensor is been on the car for many years ,not too long ago we had a customer with a non start condition on his C2 2 mechanics and himself battle to diagnose the problem on the car , we also checked his DME ,tested out fine .
We advise to scope the signal at the sensor and was fine also , after several checks everything seemed to be just right , there were no explanation why the car was not starting so we decided to remove the reference sensor for visual inspection ,for our surprise this was all crushed by the expansion of the corroded aluminum "this car was driven on the snow".

Jose