Power windows don't work, all button.
 

Just found out today that all of of my power window buttons don't work any more. Before I have to dig into the wiring with my multi meter, anyone know if this is a known issue, any bad component, any quick fix?
Thanks.

I findn it odd that all pw don't work at the same instant. Check fuses and continuity first? Then if switch contacts dirty?

I second Will's assessment but be prepared for a burnt motor. You can do the change out as it's more nook and cranny fidgeting than exotic. Wayne's book has the step by step or, maybe spelled out here in the forum. Good luck.

87 blk coupe

If one of the the switches is dirty or bad or one of the motors is burned, will it deactivate all window's buttons? Maybe not? This is why I think there might be a component such as a relay or a fuse which controls the whole windows system. Is there such thing? Or 911's power window are working independently?

1. Check the fuse for corrosion at the fuse contacts,
and the wire at the bottom of the fuse.

2. Check for voltage at the switch connection on the jpg. as
the power to all of the windows is fed from this point.

3. Check the ground at the connection on the jpeg.

If all of the above check out, using a voltmeter, verify
all voltages as per the jpg.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1288214106.jpg


Good luck,

Gerry

Check the round relay in the trunk first. Forget which one is for the window switches. Mine had pulled out slightly and no switches would work.

Relay,...switches,..fuse,..not necc'y in that order....

Doyle

As per the "Bentley":

The P/W relay for the '87 is behind the dash, and accessable
from the boot.

By the way, let us know what you find.

Good luck,

Gerry


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1288219584.jpg

........what he said.........

thanks guys.

always the easiest things first.

First fuse, then relay. There's no freakin' way all the switches could fail at precisely the same time, and same goes for the regulator motors. It's gotta be the fuse or the relay.

Or broken or disconnected wire.

Alright, here what I found, no result yet.
First thing I did yesterday was open the fuse box and found the very first fuse to the rear was burn. Replaced it and the windows work, yehaa. But somehow I doubt that "why it burns"?
I got in and out, trying a lot of things and the windows still worked fine. Drove the car around town, stop and go traffic, got on freeway and hit 90, windows still work. Time to go home.
In the morning, first thing went through my mind was my windows. I was right, all windows don't work again. I check the fuse, it's burn again. So, there must be an alien burned my fuse at night.
I do have an after market alarm but I disable it last night to make sure it's not invoved.
If there is no alien, then the only actions I did preior to the fuse burn were:
- open the door with the key.
- press on the window's switch.
I will try these 2 things one at a time and watch the fuse.
Thanks guy.

Gerry, thanks for the call last night. Now I got another thing to take care of.

I will look for it. By the way, on my fuse #1, toward the rear (windows), the bottom wire is giant and is white/blue. The top wire is black. Is this manufacture?

Keep in mind that fuse #1 is also used for the seat heating and sunroof and requires a heavy gauge wire.

Here's a pic of our '86.

Gerry

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1288306431.jpg

Thanks all,
Mine is big white/bue, maybe it's modified, or maybe diff. year model? Anyway, I found the problem.
Having a bulk of 25a fuses on hand, I kept trying all components without result. Finally, I try the action. At the end, I found that the action of opening and closing the door is burning my fuse. It seem like some wire\s got jammed in the door jam and touch the chassis. Look like another weekends proj. removing door.
Anyone has any warning when removing door?

That is an area that many people forget about. Good find.

I've a few chaffed wires on the passenger side harness (slight), noticed while going through a wax one day, years ago. Quckly got them taped off as not to touch each other and/or ground.

If you fix this, be nice to see the pics.

Thanks!

Doyle

right now, I am not even sure what is the best way to pull the door off :D. Will try to remember.

Just got a chance to fix this today, and now I just remember about pictures. No, I didn't take picture, sorry, but it's simple enough.
I can't take the door off by removing the pins, because the door and fender and other things are in the way. The only way for me to do this is taking the hinches with the doors. Door stopper need to be removed too.
Best is to have a helper. I didn't, so I stack some 2x10 wood pieces underneath the door, but hard to keep it stand up. I also tried to put a floor jack underneath the door. Still, best to have a helper.
The hardest part is to keep the door not scraping on the car's body to protect your paint.
The reason one of my wire cracked was because one of the grommets came loose. It's one of the stock one, long and has a rounded plug at the end, which plugs into the chassis up on top of thei nner fender.
I checked the other side and just as I guessed, the grommet came off too. Will take care of it next time.