Ignition Switch Question
 

Well after 37 years I guess my ignition switch is going under. I have to turn it 4 or 5 times before I hit the starter spring.
Can anyone rebuild these or do I buy a new one?
Can they be rekeyed to my old key?
I notice this site sells the electrical part only, is this where the spring resides?

There are numerous places to get it...

Here is the link for our host. I did mine.. Its not too bad of a job. Probably easier to Re-Key your doors (they actually make a kit for this) than to Re-Key the ignition.. but Ill defer to the experts...

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 964-347-917-01-M100

Holy crap....642 bucks. I'd try Parts Heaven or dC Automotive first.....

Yes. It is pricey. But it will last another 35 years. I wouldnt buy a used one since a 30 year old used one is going to have a potentially short life. As an FYI... they are $180 at DcAutomotive (used).

What about putting a starter button in? Would that work?

My opinion is that they will last longer if lubed on a regular basis.

yes. i dont see why it wouldnt work.. or you could try a used one if money is an issue.

I could be wrong, but it is usually the electrical plug (contains the spring I beleive) that goes bad. Sometine the little "T" shaped key breaks, but can be repaired with some ingenuity.

So you think that if I replace the electrical portion the spring is in that smaller part?

I beleive that to be the case and will check my spare I have at home tonight.

Yes. They can be rekeyed to match your old key. Your key blank must be in good condition though. I have rekeyed over 100 of these.

I replaced my switch last year, just the electrical part. It does in fact have the spring in it. Replacing it is quite a chore. Be prepared to spend some time with your head under the dash and your feet facing the back glass. Also the phillips screws require some ingenuity to remove.

Good Luck,

It is on mine ('77), the key portion of the lock just has a "church key" that fits into the electrical portion of the switch and there's no springing at all on the lock itself.

Note that the newer (cheaper) electrical portion has a lock-out mechanism that the older (more expensive) electrical portion doesn't have - the lockout gives you one chance to hit "start", then if you release the key to "Run", you have to turn it off altogether before you can hit "start" again, whereas the older design allows you to hit "start" from "run" as many times as you like without needing to turn it off in between attempts (I much prefer this behavior).

With suitable tools and patience, you can change just the electrical portion of the switch. On mine, it's a pair of slotted screws holding it on - but the screw next to the underside of the dash is quite awkward to remove.

With the cost of early and late ign. switches, I suggest adding a remote switch to minimize wear at the crank position.

Here's my attempt:
Remote Starter

Sherwood

Before you do anything, try squirting a bunch of WD40 through the key hole with one of those thin tubes, and then turning the key several times and then repeat. I had similar problem as yours and this solved my problem completely.

WD40 first then Electric switch if that doesn't work.
I think that remote start switch is neat. Beats 650dls

Or, liquid graphite.