Sportomatic Engine drop
 

So, my car's been sittin' for 'bout two months now, patiently waiting for me to change the vacuum servo for the Sportomatic.
I got one that I think will work for a good long time that I'm going to be putting in.
I hadn't wanted to get into this job because of the work it took me to get the axles in when I changed them out about 8 months ago. I'm getting old(er) and it was a real PITA to do. I wasn't looking forward to having to take them loose again just to drop the engine.
I decided to take the day off from work since the weather is nice and I'd rather work on the car while it's a little warm rather than a little cool(er). Old bones and cold concrete, or something like that.
I thought I'd share my adventure into 911-dom with all of you. I've got experience dropping Porsche motors, 1) with my brother (we've done quite a few together, but they were his, not mine) and 2) when I had my 912, with my son helping by him doing a lot of the under car stuff. Well, he's gone and grown up on me and is no longer within easy helping distance so, I asked my daughter if she'd be willing to lend a hand. Mostly for releasing the parking brake when undoing those dang axle bolts. She accepted my invitation and we set out this morning to begin the job.
First thing was dragging the car to the middle of the garage. With it put into it's usual spot backwards this meant jacking it up and pushing/pulling it over. That done we jacked up the front and put the tires on 2x4's. Next came the back and then the front again, well, you get the picture. I'm not sure I'll be able to get the engine out from under the car at the height we have it, but I'll be able to get to the servo.
The axles came off a lot easier than the old ones I had replaced, which was a welcome relief. It allowed us to make more progress than I'd hoped for the day.
Right now we're at a stopping point because I don't have the proper wrenches to get the hard line undone.
Wayne's book has been a good read for my daughter while I've been underneath undoing things.
When we get to the Sporto part I'll post more pics as that's the interesting stuff.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1288298620.jpg
I was sure glad I drained the oil tank first this time 'round. Only ended up with a few inches in the bucket. Decided I'd better use the same bucket to catch the oil coming out of the sump. Sure 'nuf, it would've been a real mess if I'd gone the usual route and used the catch pan I normally do. Guess it all drained into the sump from sitting so long.
More to come as I hope to have the car back on the road by the end of Thanksgiving weekend.

Lower right corner.... Pipe wrenches man, pipe wrenches. :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1157252249.jpg

I hear ya Dave but the ex-machinist in me says, no, you will not use that kind of wrench on those fittings.

Works like a charm. :)

Second the pipe wrenches, works like a charm.

I bought two huge crescent wrenches from harbor freight. They work fine on the oil lines and don't damage the fittings.

+1 on the pipe wrenches. Works like a charm. I bought the three-pack at Home Depot, and they work great! And there are no odd "markings" on the nuts afterwards.

I have the proper 36mm wrench that I bought from the old Aut0m0tion (no longer around) 15 years ago. Still works. But, I have resorted to pipe wrenches sometimes. It does chew up the sides of the nut.

Two big Crescent Wrenches work best.

You can never have too many big wrenches.

I'm in...
 

Ok... I'll get a set. Please, pictures or sku

if you need to buy something, buy those German wrenches (Stahwile?) that fit exactly - they go pretty cheap used on eBay

if you have pipe wrenches sitting around already, they won't be as good as monkey wrenches, but will work ok with possibly some damage to the nut over time

When I pulled my engine, I wrapped the nut in a piece of old leather and then used a pipe wrench, no marks.

Ditto!

Funny the most of the Stahwile stuff on FleaBay is SAE...

I'll keep looking

I had the pipe wrenches already, so not a big deal... Best part, is that they don't care if it's SAE or metric... I can't confirm on the teeth marks right now, but I've used them 3(?) times so far and I don't think the nuts are chewed at all yet. It's all about finesse.

Thanks for the input guys.
I think I'll get another big adjustable as only having one makes for an odd pairing.
Besides, I haven't had to buy any new tools for this job yet, so I'm entitled to it. Right?

I have that same atv jack, can you post a pic on how you attached the wood?
Thanks

this works fine as long as they aren't corroded on there

if they are hard to remove, then you may need to use some shock (hammer) the the wrench to get it free; leather or tape will prevent that mechanical shock from reaching the nut threads

other options include heat, cold, liquid penetrant

it's down...
 

With the help of some friends we were able to get the engine out.
I opted for the 4-pack of wrenches at HF for $10 bucks. Fitting came apart easily.
Turned out to be a nice afternoon after a 1/4" of rain early this morning.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1288483751.jpg