BUGGER nuts
 

:mad::confused:

I'm getting ready to drop the engine & tranny on my 71T and clean and repack the rear axle CV joints while I'm at it. I've run into two nuts seemingly impossible to remove.

First the castellated axle nut. It took a 1/2 in. drive breaker bar and a 3 foot piece of pipe extender to remove the one on the right hand side, which came off hard but no such luck in the left hand side - I was beginning to think the nut had left hand threads but not the case. I have soaked the nut with penetrating oil, heated it and sweared at it - I even broke the heavy duty socket into pieces with all the torque. Any suggestions?

Next, a seemingly simple unscrewing of the transmission cable attachment to the tranny. I am assuming that the bolt pattern on the top of the connector is where you try to remove it rather that the round portion closer to the tranny elbow. I put enough torque on it that it started flexing the elbow. Looking for confirmation that this is correct before I apply more force tomorrow.

Thanks for your help!http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1288322481.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1288322518.jpg

Keep going bigger, 3/4" breaker bar, longer extention, heat, good solid stands. thats all.

Penetrating oil. And rent an electric impact wrench, unless you have air, in which case just buy an air tool.

I have never run into a nut that I could get my Impact wrench on that I couldn't get off or at least shear off.

Keep going bigger - keep applying penetrating oil - you may not be giving it enough time to sink in - especially after burning it all off with heat...

Good luck!

The original torque setting for that nut is like 250 ft-lb. See that yellow paint? That was put on by Hans und Franz when they torqued that baby back in Stuttgart.

You need a 30mm socket that is designed for an impact wrench. A breaker bar with about a four foot extension should do the job. Use lots of PB blaster or other penetrating oil. I really wouldn't use heat except as a last resort because you don't want to alter the heat treatment of the stub axles, which are pretty critical elements of the load path.

Persevere and the nut WILL come off.

Be careful on the speedo drive nut. I broke the whole neck off because my open end wrench was wedged against the chassis and acted as a lever to snap it off. Just be sure the wrench you use is free from all obstructions before you apply pressure, torque specs are very light, just above finger tight if I remember correctly. Incidentally, if you do snap the neck, its repairable. Bill K

I would suggest a good impact gun with a 3/8 air hose... Worse case scenario,go to any muffler shop or garage and ask them to break it loose for you,then retighten enough to get it home !
I have a Blue Point 1/2 drive gun with 450 ft/lbs removal torque and it was tough to remove the axle nut ...

Cheers !
Phil

heat cycling, penetrating oil, impact wrench - don't use 1/2" tools when just using hand breaker bar

Thanks all for your comments. With a little coaxing I managed to get the speedo cable off.

The axle nut is another story. I replaced my shattered 1/2 30mm drive socket and tried it again - this time the breaker bar broke. off to the store to buy a 3/4 in bar and socket.

I don't think Hans and Franz did this - probably someone along the line that was in love with their impact wrench

A little rust goes a long way.

6 point socket
 

dont use a 12 point socket it may strip use a 3/4 inches 6 point .