Can I retorque my lower case studs to reduce oil leak?
 

I have a slow leak at the seam between the two engine case halves at the bottom of the engine. I was wondering if I would do any harm if I retorque the 13mm outer case perimeter nuts to spec 18 ft-lbs, in the event some have loosened?. Could this crack the seal even more or change any gaps that would be more harmful than helpful? It doesn't seem like it would make things worse but just making sure. If they are already at the 18ft-lbs then they shouldn't turn anyway.

Hey Jim, you two are not talking about the same thing. :)

You are talking head studs, he is talking case nuts.

Oh damn Dave, You right!

NEVERMIND........... SNL

Oh great, now you're going to make me look like I'm crazy! :D

LOL, got yeah! I am just tired and did not read carefully

i would not go any higher than 18 ft/lbs. If it leaks, it leaks. Or dump some Bardal in the oil and seal everything up nice and tight!! No, don't do that. Make sure that it is the seam that's leaking.

How did those guys do that? crazy

a) It won't hurt.
b) It won't help. At least not likely it will help. Very unlikely that these are loose at all. And I think equally unlikely that, if the case sealant seal is broken, the tightening would help anyway.

Given that gloomy prospect, I'd look elsewhere for the cause of the problem. Just maybe it is from something you can do something about without splitting the case. Yes, could be a bad orange Loctite (or other sealant) seal in the case. But I think that is not too likely. Unless this is a fresh rebuild motor, and you think it didn't get sealed properly.

Well, I went ahead and took the torque wrench to the case nuts and as expected they were already tight so I'm back to square one. I'm pretty sure the leak is from the split in the case, as well as a little where the chain cover attaches to the case. It's not that bad, maybe about two or three quarter sized wet spots every time I drive. Hopefully it stays that way.

It could be coming from the front or rear crank seals. A slow leak will run right down the case seam and collect on the bottom. The sump plate can be a problem to. Mine is doing the same and it is coming from the seals.

that is fixable.

Hi,

It's usually really hard to find the actual leak. All leaks will sooner or later end up in the case split, but the loctite seal is not likely to be the source of more than a few % of the leaks IMHO.

I had the same problem, meaning oil following the case split from the front crank seal and dripping on the floor. Very easy to fix when the engine is out of the car, just remove the clutch and fly wheel, took me maybe an hour. The hard part is to put it back in the car again....

I would leave it as-is if it's just quarter-sized drops. Sooner or later you have to drop the engine for some reason, and if it is the front seal it's an easy fix "while in there".

Rear seal can be adressed while the engine is in the car I guess, but you have to drop the exhaust, rear engine mount and some other stuff to get access. I would wait with that too until the engine is out for some other reason.

I guess you have checked the oil lines to the chain tensioners? They are notorious to leak.


regards,

Johan

I agree with the others. No matter where the engine is leaking, the oil will find its way to the seam and appear to be leaking from there.

You should use degreaser and spray the underside of the engine to get as clean as possible. Then start the engine and watch for fresh oil leaks.

I had the same problem, chased it for years. Finally took the motor out and found it was a cracked head, right under the valve spring:mad: Hope yours turns out better.