'87 3.2 carrera won't start- I need help.

[wxman]

This is a post of desperation since I have done the searches made the repairs and still have a problem

A few weeks ago my car would not start after a short shopping trip. Exchanged the DME relay with no change. AAA towed me home. Fuel was being pumped. After many hours, checked for spark again at plug one and the car started. Reinstalled the plug. Interment problem, not the relays must be the DME

I bought a rebuilt DME unit, with exchange and upgraded the chip. Replaced the coil.

No problem in two weeks, loved the performance. MY old DME unit had a problem with the charging circuit. I had piece of mind. This problem was fixed

Tuesday drove home, tried to restart car after sitting 10 minutes and nothing. Exchanged DME relay with no change, no start. Checked for spark, ok. No fuel to filter.

Bought a new fuel pump and filter. No start. Exchanged DME relays, no change.

Sat for a few more hours, checked for fuel delivery, none, and spark. I could feel power to the DME touching the idle valve. Took out the #1 plug to insure spark and the car started. Put plug back in, started again; exchanged the DME relays and the car still started with either one. The car has restarted a number of times but I’m afraid I have a problem and I am not sure where to go from here. I have replaced about everything.

I have 2 good DME relays
1 rebuilt DME
New fuel pump and filter
New coil
Sparking wires about a year old
Distributor cap and rotor about a year old.
It seems odd that the car started both times after taking out plug 1 to check for spark.
Any Advice would be appreciated.
Doug
Fresno
87 Carrera targa

[rick-l]

When you say no fuel to the filter does this mean no pressure?

[kidrock]

the '87 3.2 must have the motor running to make the fuel pump send fuel. I'm a little confused.

try disconnecting a hose to your ICV and spray a shot of carb cleaner in there. Quickly re-connect and start the motor. Tell us what happens.

I don't think your no-start issue has anything to do with your spark plug or wire at #1 cylinder. Your car will start and run on 5 cylinders (but it will run crappy).

[tomphot]

I chased a problem like yours - turns out it was the speed sensor by the flywheel.

There are 2 sensors on top of each other by the flywheel - you may as well change them both out if your going to do 1 of them.

[wxman]

I was not getting power to the fuel pump. Eventually it was like someone threw a switch and all was well again, at least temporally. Intermittent problems are always the worst.
I have ordered the 2 sensors and hopefully that will keep me on the road again. I have replaced just about everything. Most probably needed to be replaced or updated since she is 22 years old.
Thanks for the help.
Doug

[seafood10]

Have you checked the sensors? This exact thing happened to me and it was the sensors, I replaced them with a less expensive BMW part from our host and have been great ever since. EDIT: OK, saw you ordered the sensors, just an FYI, the BMW are the exact same but a lot less, I think like 100.00 or so, PP has them.

[nhromyak]

Check all sensors for proper readings
CHT and temp sensors.

Good luck.

[Jesse16]

So I get the engine back in after a clutch replacement and all seems to be good except, no start. Engine turns over nicely. I took out plug #6 and its sparking strongly, plug was wet with gas. I replaced the DME Relay, no change. I can feel both clicking as they're supposed to.
Checked Speed and Reference sensors Ohms per the bentley and they measure correctly. Can the Cylinder Head Sensor be measured, and would it prevent starting if bad ?? (seems logically it wouldn't but would maybe make it run poorly) How to check if so ?
From what I'm reading, think I might be down to the ECM. Any thing else to check ?
I haven't actually opened up the fuel rail or pulled an injector to see if its spraying. Is that reasonable to do ?
I can pull the other spark plugs and just take a look.

Was hoping to go for a very rare drive in Jan. with the warm winter !