Brake pads really hard to get out - tips for getting it out?

dave 911 · dave 911's Garage

I'm doing my first brake job (caliper rebuild, hose replacement). I'm on the front left caliper - this is the one that was sticking and not letting the wheel rotate. I've got the lines off (nothing broken so far

yippee, it was a great feeling when the hard line nuts all turned) and have pushed the piston back to the point where the outer pad wiggles back and forth and the wheel now turns freely, but the pad won't out. Is there a trick to getting it out? I did a search but couldn't find anything.

DoI need to remove both of the pads before taking the caliper off? I got the inboard pad off but the outboard is being stubborn. Seems like I could take the caliper off now but the tech article says to remove the pads first....

thx in advance

Oh Haha · 11-19-2010, 06:05 PM

Try using a tool that you could insert through the retaining pin holes and create a fulcrum to lift the pad out.

dave 911 · dave 911's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oh Haha

Try using a tool that you could insert through the retaining pin holes and create a fulcrum to lift the pad out.

Yes, I'm trying that but it's stuck to the point where it feels like I'm going to snap my screwdriver (fulcrum)

Oh Haha · 11-19-2010, 06:10 PM

If they're off the car you could try tapping them out the bottom. I THINK they'll come out that way but maybe not.

dave 911 · dave 911's Garage

got it, thanks for the help Wayne. The pad surface is broken off of the metal backing - not sure if I did that while I was pulling it out or if it was like that before. There is some surface rust on the back, I think it was stuck to the piston maybe...

vulcan300 · 11-20-2010, 04:11 AM

Since you're going to take the calipers off anyway just remove them and then remove the pads. This is easiest once you've pushed the piston back and have a little wiggle room between the pads and the rotor. Removing the pads is a snap once you have the calipers off.

Gunter · Gunter's Garage

Sounds like is was just some rust and dirt holding the pad in.

When you install the new pads, make sure they can move/slide without sticking. Quite often, the steel portion of the pad has to be filed a little to make them fit correctly.
You don't want them tight! The pistons have to be able to push the pads against the rotor when brakes are applied AND the pads have to be able to move away from the rotor when the piston retracts.

dave 911 · dave 911's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gunter

Sounds like is was just some rust and dirt holding the pad in.

When you install the new pads, make sure they can move/slide without sticking. Quite often, the steel portion of the pad has to be filed a little to make them fit correctly.
You don't want them tight! The pistons have to be able to push the pads against the rotor when brakes are applied AND the pads have to be able to move away from the rotor when the piston retracts.

Got it, thanks. I'm not there yet, still need to get my caliper rebuild kits and soft lines delivered.

Looking at how the pads fit in the calipers, how do they move back out when the piston retracts? It seems like once they get pushed up against the rotor, there's nothing to cause them to push back away from the rotor?

vulcan300 · 11-20-2010, 02:47 PM

The spring clips held against the pads by the pins should push the pads back away from the rotors when you take your foot off the brakes. Make sure you get new hardware kits to go with your nicely rebuilt calipers and new pads.

Oh Haha · 11-20-2010, 04:43 PM

+1 to what tm posted.

Also, the piston seal is "square", not round.

It moves with the piston out and then sort of rubber bands back when the pressure is relieved, allowing the piston to move back into the bore slightly. The keeps the pads from contacting the rotors constantly.

john walker's workshop · 11-20-2010, 05:16 PM

the outer pad can be removed with a medium/large screwdriver inserted between the rotor hub and caliper from above. pry against the pad and out it comes. your effort may vary.

Gunter · Gunter's Garage

Dave:

Some books like the Bentley Repair Manuals explain how the pistons pull back just a few thou due to the inner square seal releasing the pad from pressing against the rotor.

Your pistons may have a step and need to be installed the right way with a 20 degree offset after the new square seals are in place. Haynes page 184.

Do a search on this, it's important.

Also, there are certain spots like the pins etc. that need a little grease.