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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Winter Haven, FL usa
Posts: 921
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I just spent a great day at Sebring- we still have nice weather down here. I was pulling the wheels to do brakes- one nut on the rear pass wheel didn't want to come off. Yes it was properly torqued, by hand, etc in the last couple of days. It did come off intact, but I think the threads on the stud are a little "galled" - I think that is the correct term. I can thread the nut on- but it takes about 40lbs of torque according to the torque wrench to thread it on- it does not change as it threads down the stud. The threads look ok- I really can't see an area that the threads are damaged. (It is not the nut- I tried a different one.) Is there anything I can do besides replace the stud- can a die or anything clean up the threads? I understand stud replacements-esp in the rear are difficult, as pulling the hub seems to require bearing tools, etc. Where should I go from here-besides to the shop.
Thanks Gary Last edited by gchappel; 01-21-2002 at 01:00 PM.. |
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Registered
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Gary
Well, you can chase the threads on the stud with a thread chaser - it will clean them up. However, if the threads are damaged - ie - nut removed some of the thread material from the stud, then when you clean them up, the nut will have play in it so the stud needs to be replaced. Do a close up inspection on the threads and see if there are any missing areas (flat spots), or if some of the threads look like there is more material on them. More material means the nut left some material behind on the thread, less thread material means the nut took some of the thread with it. Steve |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Stuttgart FRG
Posts: 2,307
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Hello
Normaly the nut is the problem Grüsse |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Los Alamos, NM, USA
Posts: 6,044
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I agree with Roland; get a new nut and try it on the "tight" stud.
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Lacey, WA. USA
Posts: 25,310
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My local brake shop once buggered up a stud thread. It was fortunate that I noticed it quickly, because the burr on the thread would have EATEN all five of those nuts over time. I filed it and chased it with a die and it's fine now.
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Winter Haven, FL usa
Posts: 921
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Thanks, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to do something really stupid. It was clearly the stud- tried 3 lugnuts. I was using steel lugnuts at the time- they were on my track wheels. I dressed up the threads with a thread file, and ran a die over it- better than new. Just for fun I ran the die over the other studs- just spun it on by hand--boy there was a lot of soft crude in the threads- probably why the one galled up. Thanks again for the moral support
Gary Chappel. ![]() |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Stuttgart FRG
Posts: 2,307
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Hello
Just wantet to go sure ![]() Grüsse |
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Author of "101 Projects"
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Ok, there's your problem. I don't recommend using the steel lug nuts for precisely the problem you're having. The aluminum studs will gall and damage long before the steel threads on your studs. If there is a problem (grain of sand, or x-threading) while using the steel studs, there is a much greater chance that you will mess up your studs.
As we all know the nuts are much easier to replace than the studs. Use the aluminum ones unles you have a specific reason why you can't. To repair your stud, chase it with a die, and you should be able to clean it out... -Wayne
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Wayne R. Dempsey, Founder, Pelican Parts Inc., and Author of: 101 Projects for Your BMW 3-Series • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 911 • How to Rebuild & Modify Porsche 911 Engines • 101 Projects for Your Porsche Boxster & Cayman • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 996 / 997 • SPEED READ: Porsche 911 Check out our new site: Dempsey Motorsports |
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