83 SC Speakers

[83_Silberpfeil]

I just removed the left front and left rear speakers on my 83 SC.

It is pretty clear that the fronts are 5-1/4s Blaupunkts. The rears are Blaupunkt DL 1525 1A. These measure to be 4 X 6s max on the longest and wides part of the speaker. I did not measure the widest/longest part of the grill. Which measurement is the correct one?

I'm a bit confused because Crutchfield indicates that the stock speaker for the 83 SC rear is 5X7. However, based on my measurement, it seems to be 4 X 6s tops.

Does anyone have experience on this?

I'd like to replace with new speakers soon. Just want to make sure I buy the right sized speakers.

Thanks!

[FrinkFrog]

4x6. That's what I used to replace the big ugly Alpine/Rockford Fosgate (with plywood spacer) the PO had installed. You might be able to use larger speakers, but the shelf depth is the problem.

[83_Silberpfeil]

Thanks. What speakets
Did you use in the back?

4x6. That's what I used to replace the big ugly Alpine/Rockford Fosgate (with plywood spacer) the PO had installed. You might be able to use larger speakers, but the shelf depth is the problem.

[RoninLB]

a nice setup is 6.5 fronts w/2x75 amp

you probably won't want rear after that

member bell has a good act for setting up the rears that's a better routine than a stock install

[jcsjcs]

Originally Posted by RoninLB

a nice setup is 6.5 fronts w/2x75 amp

you probably won't want rear after that

member bell has a good act for setting up the rears that's a better routine than a stock install

Do the 6.5 fronts fit in the stock setup?

And do you have a link to the "bell setup"?

[Bob Kontak]

See this post. There is some good information and I particularly like the links in post #12 regarding the infinity speakers.

Audio experts - village idiot needs help

[RoninLB]

Originally Posted by jcsjcs

Do the 6.5 fronts fit in the stock setup?

And do you have a link to the "bell setup"?

the door sheet metal has to be trimmed

bell replied in Bob Kontak thread that he listed above
send him a PM and e-mail

[FrinkFrog]

To answer the question posed to me: I hated the big speakers in back, so I simply bought a pair of 4x6 Pioneer coaxials and left the fronts alone... I don't even know what they are. But I just ordered a Blaupunkt HU with digital interface (no more CD's!) and post #12 (above link) has really got me thinking I could get better speakers and do away with the power amps the PO had installed into the car. To be honest, I don't have the music on very often while driving the car (why I haven't been gung-ho on changing things)... but getting rid of the amps and saving weight... that's intriguing.

[RoninLB]

some say back is for fill only
besides.. a nice muffler sounds better back there for fill

I need the 75 amp to prevent clipping and get as much bass as possible. When I'm doing speed limit the audio helps. At speed the engine and V-1 sounds better and is necessary.

[83_Silberpfeil]

Thanks all for contributing your ideas and the links!

I am going to try piecemeal impreovements.

Right now the stock spkrs and the 20 yr old Jensen head unit with a tape deck sounds utterly crappy.

I am planning on swapping out front speakers first, see how that goes. If need be, then the rear spkrs. Then, head unit. Then if still needed and i am ambitious, an amp and a sub. I like those self contained subs --- like the Blaupunkt 'drum/barrel' looking ones--- just leave it on the floor of the back seats.

[RoninLB]

I have crossovers at around 120hz for the woofer part of the 6.5 as then I can still get volume without the possibility of damage and 120hz is plenty good in these noisy cars

[nineball]

Originally Posted by RoninLB

the door sheet metal has to be trimmed

no it doesn't. the door panel opening must be opened up but the sheetmetal needs no modification. you might need a small spacer depending on the mounting depth of the speaker.

Originally Posted by RoninLB

I have crossovers at around 120hz for the woofer part of the 6.5 as then I can still get volume without the possibility of damage and 120hz is plenty good in these noisy cars

what do you mean exactly about 120hz being good in these noisy cars? i don't understand what the crossover point has to do with the car's inherent noise.

[RoninLB]

Originally Posted by nineball

no it doesn't. the door panel opening must be opened up but the sheetmetal needs no modification.

what do you mean exactly about 120hz being good in these noisy cars? i don't understand what the crossover point has to do with the car's inherent noise.

does door panel opening tin sound better than sheetmetal?

The 6.5" above 120hz delivers enough bass in these noisy cars so you can turn up the volume further at that setting than if the crossover was at 60hz where it would distort at same volume. Test it for yourself.

[nineball]

Originally Posted by RoninLB

does door panel opening tin sound better than sheetmetal?

The 6.5" above 120hz delivers enough bass in these noisy cars so you can turn up the volume further at that setting than if the crossover was at 60hz where it would distort at same volume. Test it for yourself.

what are you talking about? i really don't understand that first statement.

the crossover point only determines what frequencies the speaker can output. if the speaker can handle playing down to 60hz there will be no distortion providing you feeding it a clean signal. my 6.5 can easily play below 60hz with 100+ rms being fed to them.

[83_Silberpfeil]

Just installed new speakers....

New speakers in an 83 SC

[bsimonson]

Originally Posted by nineball

the crossover point only determines what frequencies the speaker can output. if the speaker can handle playing down to 60hz there will be no distortion providing you feeding it a clean signal. my 6.5 can easily play below 60hz with 100+ rms being fed to them.

The crossover determines what frequencies the speaker is asked to output, not what it is actually capable of.

The level of distortion is very much a function of the SPL (sound pressure level) that the speaker is asked to output at a certain frequency. So a 120Hz cutoff point will allow the speaker to have a lower overall distortion as it is not asked to produce low frequencies at a high SPL (something that requires larger cone motion => distortion).

I think what RoninLB means is that if you filter out sound below 120 Hz, which is drowned by the noise anyway, you can enjoy everything above 120 Hz louder than you otherwise could.