Brake line routing for Brembo GTO BBK
 

What have folks done for the brake line routing on the Brembo GTP brake kit - trying to figure out what is best and others have done for the routing:

Here is what is looks like - not sure if this is right or not?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1291423776.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1291423815.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1291423843.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1291423861.jpg

Thoughts?

Thanks

Hey Dawger,
I don't have pictures, but the tab on the strut is where the hard line meets the softline (from the factory). What I did is make a new hardline from the caliper to that tab and used the factory softline. I have 930 brakes, but the process was the same. I rented, with a few other Pelicans, a brake line flaring tool, which was a really nice tool and idiot proof.

I bought the bulk line and fittings from the company who rents the tool. If you search around here, you'll find the info about the company.

Search on 70socalrsr (Fernando) and you'll find some nice pics. He documented his project, I think. He was one of the three of us who rented the tool.

Doug

OK - sounds like the 930 install is a little different? So I don't have an issue with the SS line all in one like the pics show - I can see a hard line from the caliper to the strut tab though(obviously my factory one will not work. But then what about from the hard line to the hard line on the body just a regular SS line? The SS lines with the kit will be too long then...

These lines came with the kit and it seems like they work - no binding and good quality so not sure I want to ditch them.?

I was thinking of just running them through the tab on the strut - ?

The 930 caliper is slightly different, but not a lot. There is a hardline from the master cylinder to the fender, as seen in your pic. Then a stainless braided in my case and then another hard line out to the caliper from the tab.

What if you put a rubber bushing in the tab on the strut and routed the line through the hole in the tab? Is there room for a bushing?

You can adjust some of the play with the fitting at the caliper.

If you have a lot extra flex line, you could zip tie the line parallel to the strut and use some cut hose to insulate.

Or fab up something which attaches to the existing tab on the strut.

One way or another, I'd make sure it has play for motion of the a-arm, but doesn't rub on anything. Master of the obvious here :D
Doug

Yeah I figured a question like this was probably a duh - does it rub or bind? ;) it doesn't seem too...lock to lock is fine.

I guess what threw me was I bought new hardlines and spring retainers for, from the caliper to the stut housing, and like an idiot didn't take into account there is no way they will work and the caliper is in a completely different position...the the SS lines from the kit seem to work, the ends will not go through the strut bracket, the banjo fitting on one end is too big and the other nut fitting is even bigger.

I guess in my mind I needed clarification on either - hey you routed them wrong here is the right way - or with this setup do what works doesn't bind etc...

I was thinking to notch/cut a line in the strut tab, bend them open, slide the SS line in with a grommet or bushing and leave it at that...is that ghetto? I also thought about the tie wrap too but that didn't seem like a good solution as there was no real place to tie it properly.

You are missing a plastic clip
this is what it's supposed to look like, when you use 1 long flex line

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1291466914.jpg

the better way to do it is to use a hardline from the caliper to the strut, use a factory clip at the strut and then a shorter flex line to the chassis

OK - where can I source that clip from (I don't have the brake pad wear sensor bracket on the strut anymore) I guess that will fit on the brake line bracket in the front.

If not where is the best place to get lines and fittings?

That bbk kit is sold by Race Technologies and should have included the clip. You might try calling them or the vendor you purchased it from.


If not all you really need is to secure the section that passes by the strut, the goal is to eliminate any chafing, that's why using a hard-line to the strut then going to a flex is better

From what I recall, they never included the clip in the kits we bought. But it is not hard to secure the line to the strut in a similar fashion.

Cheers

Right - I think that would make the kits too specific...so I am just ging to make hardlines from the caliper to the strut mount front and rear and use the standard SS lines from the strut to the body - rear as well.

I posted a question about sizes of OEm lines and fittings - trying to buy the parts from FedHill but I need the sizes of the oem fittings and lines....

Update - per Bill's suggestion - hard line from the caliper to the strut tab, correctly sized SS line from strut tab to body hard line:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292163644.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292163671.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292163707.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292163761.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292163793.jpg

So I need to do the other side - and then the rears...I got the SS lines from Pelican and ordered the DOT "approved" version - but mine don't have the yellow tag...not sure if they stopped doing this or I was sent the wrong ones - here is the package:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292164157.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292164189.jpg

P-Dawger,

Do you actually drive your car or is it a museum piece ... lol
That seems like an awesomely clean underside from what the pictures show !
You must have put many hours into it !

Cheers !
Phil

Thanks - Well it is currrently undergoing a suspension redo. I have 33k on the clock and figured while I am in there (as we all do) why not refurb wherever I am. It does not take as much time as you think, just lots of cleaning and lots of use of the die grinder to clean stuff up. It will be back on the road this spring. The car has been stripped of everything, it will have two seats and a rollbar and that is about it for the interior.

Nice job!

Thanks - anyone have any routing pics for the rears?? - the brake line inlet is way down at the bottom of the caliper so haed line is going to be fairly long to meet the SS line/hard line junction. Also I am thinking I will need some type of clip to mount somewhere on the arm to make the span.

The 930 calipers take-off point for the hard line connection is also at the bottom of the caliper. It banjos off of the crossover tube and therefore makes a long run upward and then inward to the flex line on the trailing arm. Do search for a picture of the rear 930? I'm not near my car right now, plus its nose-up getting a new splitter and quick release bumper installation done that's not getting done all by itself......... :mad: So I can't easily take a picture even if I was home right now! Sorry....

Something like this, similar to what you did in the front
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292264788.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292264872.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292264935.jpg

So an oem 930 line would work (at least get me close)?

Bill - right idea. The issue is on the GTP rears is the brake fitting is at the very bottom - your pic looks to be more in the middle and alos looks like an OEM line/routing. The lines are a bit different, way down almost at the bottom of the caliper so I need to work the line to come back up the face of the banana arm and then over to the SS line connection.

I was wondering if the 930 brake line might work

Then you just have to bend the brake lines around from the caliper feed to the oem break, run you stainless from there as you did in front. It is easier and cleaner when the feed are centered

I'm curious about the rear caliper and rotor in this kit, did you post any pics?

Yup - lots of pics here....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/534247-carrera-suspension-update.html

No pics of the back side of the calipers

This kit is different, all the GT kits I've seen use the big 993tt/RS rear caliper on a modified 993tt/RS rear rotor,

You appear to have the 322x28mm modified rotor(which is supposed to be NLA) but w/ a smaller A family Brembo caliper

very curious:confused:

Bill - I'll try to shoot some pics of the backside of the caliper - It's a GTP Kit that I got here from Pelican some time back.

Bill,

I suspect the rear caliper is a Lotus TwinTurbo V8 application? That's what Jeff Alton mentioned is his ad for the kit he's offering.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-used-parts-sale-wanted/572341-brembo-gtp-brake-kit.html

That car is so clean even a clean freak like me is shocked. I guess getting married and having kids has broken me of that clean fetish, because my stuff isn't even clean anymore! :D

I'll see what I can do about getting a picture of my rear line on the 930 caliper. I have to do something about my garage disaster anyway.......

Kevin - well you just need to marry someone that is neater than you - that is what I did. :cool: I got 3 kids of my own 3,4 and 9 months - but us neat freaks (my wife and I) give them a run for their money...the house stays pretty tidy

My rears look different than the ones in that kit - now Bill has me curious too...I think overall the kit is good, (install wise) I have to install the 23mm M/C and we will see where we are with bias - my guess is pretty heavy on the front but until I get it out on the track for a good shake down I will not know.

Appreciate the help on the pics - it would be great to by a rear 930 line and call it day. In the pics you can see where the in/out line goes - it's pretty far down.

Bill here are some more pics:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292281060.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292281116.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292281151.jpg

My wife is neater than me (never stops telling me to hang up my clothes after work, straighten up your pile of magazines, etc. etc...... :D )

Yes your calipers are tapped differently than those in Jeff's kit and they don't have crossover tubes. These are similar to the old Ate calipers with internal plumbing. But I still think the 930 line could be the ticket. Stay tuned......

What are the part numbers on that caliper? The Lotus TT one is available with different piston sizes and port set ups. Although I have never seen them with a single bleed screw and a lack of cross over tubes...

Cheers

That looks like a Brembo A-family caliper, they come in different versions for front or rear use,

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292282898.gif

I see the issue w/ the o/s feed, like I said just bend a line up from the caliper to the fixed point on the trailing arm

You are probably better off w/ that caliper than the ones they originally sold w/ the GT-P kits

I don't kow what the part number is - like I said it came in a kit. If there was a parts list I didn't see it/get it. These were ordered some time back right when the GTP kits were coming out and they phased out the Big Reds - I was surprised to see the Porsche script on the calipers (most others I have seen just say Brembo)

Bill - why would this rear be better than the GTP (although that is what I thought I had)? For bias? Also you say this rear rotor is NLA - I thought it was just a TT rotor pinned to a e-brake inner?

I'm having some difficulty remembering what was used in the original GTP kits. From correspondence w/ Race Technology and some early adapters I thought I remembered Big red front and rear calipers. I just pulled the spec sheets and apparently my memory is much worse than I thought.

The original kits had the Brembo B caliper that you have in front on 993tt 322x32 2 piece rotor annulus w/ a flat 911 hat, these calipers had 40/44 pistons.

the rears were an A-family as you have pictured on modified 322x28 993RS/tt rear rotors. The calipers had 28/30mm pistons.

this setup is very heavily front biased, 2.1 vs usual 911 1.6. A number of early users reported front locking issues. I have no personal experience w/ them myself. But w/ that much front bias you may want to consider using a rear pad w/ more bite than the front also be sure to remove the stock 3.2 Carrera p/v.

Thanks Bill - it just shows how much mis-information is floating around - I was told not to remove the p/v on the stock setup and use the 23mm.

Where is the p/v on an 84 Carrera? By the m/c?

Facing the rear, to the left of the booster/mc assembly, you want to use the 930 23.8mm m/c so you will have that area apart anyway.

Realized I never provided the picture I promised. Turns out I had to make a new feed line on one caliper when I couldn't get it to come free. I simply took a 12 in. pre-flared line and bent it to fit. 12 in. was just barely enough length to get it connected.

The line pictured here is an old original line.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313958185.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313958208.jpg

Looks like the Brembo kit caliper here would benefit from a banjo fitting like the original Porsche 930 Brembo rear caliper uses?

Thanks Kevin - that is exactly how I ran mine also