I would check the free wiring diagrams on the pelican site. it will show how the fuses are wired. I do recall on SCs at least that several countries had different fog light wiring (due to different national laws about when you can run fogs).

My guess also.

Out of curiosity, I called Jwest.

Waiting for a call-back.

Gerry

according to the lable on the fusebox the fuses are low beam (2 fuses) and high beam (the other two). fog lights are a different fuse.

I did not have time to check how the wires are connected, will try to do that today. They look 'factory', though, same wires, same crimp connection.

the mistery deepens ...

Until I hear back from Jwest, just open up another Crown Lager.

Also, post another picture clearly showing the wire color codes
at the bottom of the subject fuses for circuit identification.
Also, a picture of the relay kit.

Or, if you feel ambitious, just hook up the relays,
and ignore the two outer "Aussie" wires.

Most of the other members are of the opinion that the Ausie
cars are wired differently.

Do you have a Bentley or factory manual for your car?

Gerry

Looks like an opp to run the 4 relay system.....?(JK)


Need to know where the mystery wires run.....


Doyle

Does this help?



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292889552.jpg

Joe Bob:

You posted a schematic for an early 911 (1973 and older). It will work for a later car but the fuse numbers are different.

Early car:

Fuses 1/2 High Beam
Fuses 3/4 Low Beam

Later car:

Fuses 5/6 Low Beam
Fuses 7/8 High Beam

I'll have a look in the evening if I can. My hopes for a quick response have been dashed, I guess the next step is to check if everything still works if I pull one wire each (low & high) like Gerry suggested. Worst thing that could happen is I might have to connect the two fuses on the top.

For now I think going with the 2 realy solution is good, this is exactly how everyone elses setup works. Having additional relays for the drivign & fog lights might be the next step.

Thanks everyone for your help so far! I'll let you know how I go but may not be able to do much before the (long !) weekend.

If you pull those two input wires, (fuse #1 & 4) your engine compartment light may not work, along with your high beam dash mounted light.

Try pulling the wires before you install the relay kit.

I think it will work if installed as we did, and ignore fuses #1 & 4.

And, please send the requested pics.

We need the color codes on the bottom wires.

Cheers,

Gerry

I was going to pull wires 5 & 8.
I could also just combine these wires (rather than seal them).

Let's hold off until I get a call back from Jwest.
They are pretty good at returning calls.

"Fingerpoken" is not a good idea.

My '86 factory manual does cover the U.S. and Euro cars,
but not yours.

I'll follow thru with your concern until we reach a proper conclusion.

Pictures please as requested. Also of the relay kit.

Cheers,

Gerry

I wonder if you have relays and someone wired it so the signal from the stalk energizes the relay and the contact feed each fuse. Do have have any odd looking relays in your trunk?

You can do some testing before you start wiring.

With key off and headlamps off.

1-Remove the four headlamp fuses.

2-Check for power at each fuse (top). If no power, check for continuity between 5/6 and 7/8.
*** You should not find continuty if the circuits are separate.

3-Put key in run position and turn on headlamps - low beams

4-Check for voltage at 5, 6, 7 and 8.
*** You should find 12 volts at 5 and 6. No power at 7 and 8

5-Put on high beams

6-Check for voltage at 7 and 8.
*** You should find no power at 5 and 6. 12 volts at 7 and 8

7-Turn off headlamps, remove key.

What did you find?

ok, I think this is the best I can do.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292934699.jpg

i did not get around to trying the stuff you suggested below, i'll keep that in mind for next.

Feedback from JWest:

There must be some other equipment on your car that, unfortunately, I have not run into before.

Try this: turn on the low (dipped) beams. Remove one of the yellow wires entering the top of the fuse panel. Check to see if one, two, or no lights go out. Replace that wire and repeat with the other yellow wire.

Now repeat that exercise with the high (main) beams on and the white wires.

If both lights go out with one of the wires, use that wire to feed the relay kit (this means that the additional wire is feeding back to something else and will still work the same with the relays installed.

If one of the lights goes out with each wire, then your fuse panel is different (probably driven by your country's requirements). In this case, you should use both wires to feed the relay kit (or one and other taped off, but you might isolate a lamp indicator in your gauges by doing this). Then feed the relay kit into one of the fuses and make a small jumper to the other fuse of like color. Optionally, you could install two relay kits and have one wire for each fuse.

It very well may be that your fuse box does not have fuses 5&6 and 7&8 bridged like most other cars, but rather are separate circuits. If so, performing either Harry's test or JWest's test will let you know. Please let us know what you find.

Having received some guidance from Jwest, this might be your first step in
resolving the "bridging" question.

Subsequent to this evaluation we can move on to determine the functions of
the two mystery wires.

I may have access to your factory wiring diagram in a few days.
However in the alternate, there is/was a P-Dealer in Willoughby
(It has been a while since our last visit to "Down Under") which,
should have the appropriate wiring diagrams for your car.

Until then, without a circuit diagram, we will have to proceed
carefully on a step-by-step basis.

Let's try this "Cold Test".

Gerry

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1292951758.jpg

Must determine function of the mystery wires (I would)..........or do as Jwest said.

Best,

Doyle

I might not have all the answers.....but there are a couple of errors posted within this thread. I will be using my former 85 USA spec car as a basis for talks.....but the 88 should be similar.

The "key" here is to find the "source" of the 2 white and 2 yellow input wires. This does not seem factory. Factory has one yellow wire split-feeding 2 low beam headlights....and one white wire split feeding the 2 high beam lights from the top. Post # 14 above is a good summary of what is expected to be found with factory wiring.

First order of business......find out "where" the 2 white and 2 yellow feeder wires are coming from. we're all guessing unless this is "traced" and verified. Should be one color of each.

1.) first of all, the original post is wrong as to white and yellow wires. The factory yellow wire is input to the top of the LOW ( dipped) beams....and the white wire is the input to the HIGH beams. The original poster has this backwards.

2.) To be as accurate as possible, you need to draw this up as a schematic and not depend solely on pictures. Pictures can act as verification or certification to the schematics. Less chance of errors, as you can "see" and "trace" a circuit.

3.) Look at the "pin-out" of the relay. Pins 87 and 30 are the "power-circuit" pairing......pins 85 and 86 are the electromagnet portion of the relay....the area that will now be the low-amp "control" ( or switching) circuit. In my 85, if you follow the logic of the factory wiring diagram....and assuming you are using pin 87 as the input from the battery, then the matching pin 30 is the output that will connect to the "top" ( input) to where the factory yellow wire enters fuse # 6 ( of the 8 unit front-fuse block). Pin 30 and 87 are bi-directional and you may have the pin numbers revered...but no matter. Fuse #6 and #5 are "bridged" by a copper connector from the factory on the input side, then this new connection "feeds" both fuse #6 ( low beam headlight left side) and fuse #5 ( low beam headlight righ side). That's all you need from the one relay.

4.) Continuing......white wire from the other relay pin #30 similarly goes to fuse #7 ( high beam right side). Again....the factory provides a copper bridge from fuse #7 to fuse #8 ( high beam left side). As before, you may have reversed pins 30/87 but they are bi-directional. There is then one fuse for each headlight, and each of low and high beams ( 4 fuses total).

5.) I see an unrelated problem. The "front" fusebox holds 8 fuses.....the "next" fusebox right alongside and mounted toward the rear of the car, has 10 more fuses. If you "count" from the front, the first fuse of this new series of 10 ( or call it #9 if counting from the very front)...is the front turn-signal right...and should have a yellow ( 5A ) fuse. I see an 8 amp (white) fuse there... MUCH too big. Can lead to a problem. So...I'm commenting based upon the factory wiring diagram of my US-spec 1985 model. As I look now at the factory manual of the 88 model, the wiring is identical for function in this area.

For completeness...here is how I wired the Sucro kit ( identical in form and function to the West ket)--->
1.) postive post of battery....to pin 87 on relay "A". ( also fitted a 25A fuse on thisn incoming line but that is totally optional and is open to debate as to usefullness).
2.) Pin 30 ( as mentioned) from relay "A" to input ( top) of fuse #6. Yellow wire. Fuse 6 and 5 are bridged so both receive this signal.
3.) Fuse "kit" has wire from relay "A" pin 87 to relay "B" pin 87. This is a parallel feed from the car battery to both relays.
4.) Pin 30 from relay "B" ( white wire) to input (top) of fuse #7. The factory copper "bridge" then connects this also to fuse #8.
5.) "Kit" connects pins 86 of both relays.
6.) Connect one pin 86 to ground ( captures both pin 86's of both relays, since they are connected).
7.) Pins 85 of each relay receive the previous factory white and yellow wires ( one color each for each pin #85).

Attaching to this thread assuming people here are interested in my question - very good info. here - thanks to all
It may have been mentioned re. temperature discoloring of wires in the headlight bucket near the connector to the light bulb. I have H5 - stock 89 3.2. Do others see this? It seems the wire size should be larger in addition to relay addition or did the wires get pressed up against something? Thanks.

My wires are white then yellow, not yellow then white. Should this be fixed? Or should I just hook up the relay wires to the colors and positions currently in there?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1331418402.jpg