Just installed the JWest kit on my '85. The hardest part was loosening the battery clamps and installing the ground lead to the ground post. It took more time and work to get the nut/washers on and off the ground post. The kit is a breeezze.

Relay kit
 

I just did mine too and my experience was exactly like Mike's. The struggle with that massive battery in the tight space was, by far, the most difficult part of the installation. The relay part was super easy, instructions were easy to follow. If you have any experience with strippers and crimpers, it's a breeze (except for the battery part).

I wonder what ever happened to the OP geoz and his 4 headlight wires.

Got mine, clear instructions, easy install, works great, less filling.

Apologies for the thread resurrection but as I'm installing my J West relay kit in my 88 UK spec RHD targa I thought it appropriate to update this thread. My car is pretty original and I have no evidence that any fuse box wiring has been modified. It looks very much the same as the OP's.

I ran into the same issue as the OP. Some testing and checking has revealed the following:

Unlike what the diagram on fuse box cover states Fuse 5 is not for one of the low/dipped beam headlamps but is for what are called the side or city lights in Europe. These are low wattage clear bulbs (4 watts according to the PET) inside the headlamps that come on when the headlamp switch is pulled out to its first stop. Fuse 6 is for both low/dipped beam headlamps.

Fuses 7 and 8 are for the high/main beams. They are each fed by their own white wires but are also internally bridged within the fuse box.

So my plan is to use the yellow wire feeding fuse 6 for the low beam circuit of the relay kit and one of the white wires for the high beam circuit and I will isolate the other one.

Hope this helps someone in the future.

Hi everyone

I've hit the sane issues with the 4 wires. Australian car. Does anyone have a solution?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1706932034.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1706932034.jpg

I installed the blue wire in kit to position 8 and the green wire to position 6,but still have a white wire in position 7 and a yellow/black wire in position 5.

Thanks

Our instructions state that we count the fuse positions from the front of the car toward the back. Porsche does this in FSM diagrams for many of the covered years. Counting each fuse panel in the row separately starting over from 1 is very confusing.

So most of the questions here are answered by counting the same way the instructions written.

For cars with multiple inputs, we have the "brute force" method as part of the instructions, which is the final word and resolves any guesses:

Remove one of the wires at a time from the input side (make sure the loose end is not touching anything) and reconnect the battery with the appropriate headlight beam turned on. When you find the wire that causes both headlights to be off, this is your input wire for step 6.

Thanks for that.
If say one wire is left high beam, one is for right highbeam and then the other wires are the same for low beam what would be the solution in that case?

First thing I would say is that you are working from the bottom instead of the top of the fuse, since the circuits are not designed that way. A single input wire to the upper side of the fuse feeds both left and right circuits. The two fuses for each (2 high, 2 low) are joined together above the fuses. Left and right are split out inside the fuse panel and taken from the bottom of the fuses as separated circuits.

If you are seeing that the upper fuse inputs are causing a separate left and right output, something has been changed and needs to be addressed, as that probably means the circuits are not properly fused in that configuration.

I posted a photo above. You can see that there are 4 wires going into the top of the fuse box in positions 5-8
This definitely factory configuration. To neat to he aftermarket.
I'm not working from the bottom.
At the top of my fusebox on positions 5 and 6 there are two yellow wires. One with a black stripe and in positions 7 and 8 there are two white wires.

Thanks.

I was working from mobile so I could not see the picture well. I was not really meaning to accuse you of working from the bottom, just that is the only way left and right should be divided.

I've never heard of a different part number of the fuse box for any market, so the bussing of those fuses should be the same.

The poster before you was using the wrong fuse numbers (fuse cover instead of service manual numbering), so yours is not the same situation.

Have you just tried using the non-striped yellow and white input wires and ignoring the black striped ones? That is the solution for the late cars that are not from somewhere with like Sweden with special wiring. I really don't follow your comment about left and right.

You can watch my video on YouTube and I show how to tell which is the correct wire (described in my above post in words, and is the failsafe method but takes 5 minutes extra at the car).

Thanks James.

Didn't mean to sound rude. Just confused.

I've used wires 8 and 6 and left 7 and 5 as they were as per my photo in post below. I think that is correct based on your advice?

When you refer to the later cars solution, mine is a later car (1987). Do you know what the wires in position 7 and 5 are for on the later cars? Also do you know if the later cars have a fuse jumper on the back? As it would mean it wouldn't matter which yellow or white was used on the later cars.



Thanks

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1707023308.jpg

Here is photo.

Here is a pic of the fuse panel back side. It is the same for all G-body cars '74-'89. Jumpers are present for the low and high beam fuses and are on the upper side of the fuses. I meant '87-'89 when I said later cars in this case.

What you have will probably work. It won't hurt anything if wrong.

If low beams don't work right, swap the yellow wires.

If high beams don't work, swap white wires.

That should be all there is to it.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1707071305.jpg

Thanks for that. Makes sense.

If there is a jumper on the rear as pictured there should be no real need to swap the wires though really?

Still curious as to what the extra 2 wires are on the 87-89 cars, as it makes no sense if they have the fuse jumper on the back. Id initially thought I had the extra two wires because there was no bumper on the back.

While you're at it, replace all your fuses. See how the strips are buckled and distorted? Those are old and have been through many heat cycles and are getting ready to fail. Replace your fuses every 10 years, unless you upgrade to a new panel with the plug-in fuses.

I am not sure what the additional two wires are. see if you can track down where's going or coming from.


here's my 87.

2 in, 4 out as expected.

the yellow wire feeding fuse 5 or 6 doesn't matter since the hot side on 5/6 is ganged together in the back.

same for 7/8 (white wire)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1707089321.jpg

I installed the JWest kit according to the diagrams and everything works fin except when I turn the foglights on, the high beams switch on automatically with them. any ideas?

My videos on YouTube (JWest Engineering channel) address the fog light wiring.

I saw that, I’ll have to check the grey wire. I was just surprised it somehow was changed after install. Thought I wired it wrong


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