Help for Engine Yoke Installation
 

Just finish my first engine drop, separate the transmission from it. I'm ready to install the P201 Engine mount on a 3.2.

Bentley talk about it but does not show a picture a say hoe to installed it.

The stud pattern only fit at 9 O'clock or 3 O'clock

After finding a photo from search, it look like its should go at 9 o'clock. If so I have to remove the TDC bracket an sensor but it does not seem to clear the Heat Exchanger Cross Pipe???

At 3 O'clock I would have to remove the Engine Speed & Reference Sensors and it may clear the pipe.

So which one is it?

Waiting in the garage... Thanks


Yoke at 9 O'clock



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1293386097.jpg

I've done it both ways.....on one occasion, depending on the year, I've had to drop it and relocate due a part not coming off because of interference.

9 o'clock is what I usually use.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/399544-another-engine-rebuild-thread-80-3-0l-2.html

It looks like that is how I mounted mine. I do recall the exhaust being in the way.

If you are removing the HEs and never done it.....read up on the procedure.

9 O'clock it is... I'm half way remoning the pipe.

Thanks

2.5 Hrs later... Had to cut the pipe in order to reach the 3rd bolt on the flange.

So its on. Tomorrow I'll get spacer (adapter for the stud/bolt) and she'll be hanging by lunch time.

Yes, I'll be removing the H.E. to fit the SSIs. Should be a piece of cake... I can almost hear the stud snapping :eek::D:eek:

Thanks Again

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1293400847.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1293401310.jpg

Curious ... what work are you doing on the engine? Or are you just taking off the old exhaust?

Don't fully rotate the engine on it's back to remove the exhaust. I've heard that debris can fall into the exhaust ports in the heads. If you are doing a rebuild I suppose that it won't matter.

And congrats on the first drop!

If you are going to cut them......cut them completely off.

Then get soak them with PB Blaster or Kroil. Give it at least a day or more.

Heat using MAPP gas, heat them cherry red. Then first tighten them a bit THEN break them loose. Half turn oil, full turn oil, full turn, etc.....

Thanks... I was suppose to wait for some Pelican friends but nobody reply so this morning I decided to go at it alone.

While on the stand, I'm putting SSIs on. General clean-up. Change a few seals and hoses, new oil pressure sender, oil warning switch, maybe some powder coating and of course my first valve adjustment. Clean the engine bay and new heat shield. Once back in, I'll put the new muffler (M&K 2In/2Out).

Still got 3 months of hibernation so I should be ok..

I'm going to try to save them (great shape for 24 years old). Got the PB Blaster, Mapp and so on. Did not exactly help this afternoon. Along do you have the heat the nuts before they Cherry Red?

Thanks Guys :)

A minute, maybe more, depends on angle and elevation above sea level.

Test your wrenches on each to see what you will need. Some will need a swivel, others an open ended wrench, I once needed an offset wrench. But I think that was on a 3.6 and installing 993 HEs......my mind blends builds together.

I prefer six point sockets and wrenches but a dollar says one will need a 12 point to start......

You might want to price SC HEs, they are cheap IIRC. Getting them out of the way and ease of access to the nuts may outweigh the $$ you'd get on resale.

Just my experience.

Thanks JB

Hopefully I won't be posting a "Need Help with Broken Stud"

Cheers

JJ

Ready to take the HE off... (forgot to put the PB Blaster in)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1293556818.jpg

Hope nothing fell down into your exhaust ports.