Just found it, very nice piece

911 Porsche Shift Knob *NEW ITEM* 915 Pattern 72-86 - eBay (item 110629999858 end time Jan-03-11 23:25:10 PST)

I read this in a post regarding the SCRS short shift kit. It said you have to cut off 1/4 inch or so off the top of the shifter shaft to allow the new crush ring and knob to seat to the correct depth - i.e., to seat down on the flange.

Not sure what short shifter you have but worth a minute to put a scale in there to not have another "oh *****" episode considering what you are going through.

I have the SCRS shaft and the knob sits too high. I have a new crush ring but the task is still on my to do list.

That momo knob above is what have. Classy looking and easy to install. It comes loose like once a year and a quick tightening of the 3 allen screws does the trick.

What about a Hurst T handle. ha.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3239/...1e064202_b.jpg

http://image.importtuner.com/f/10019...shift_knob.jpg

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...ics/tst_18.jpg

It seems the current factory short shift levers have a thick steel ring tack-welded onto the upper part of the lever in order to provide an anchor point for the factory leather shift boot. This ring often interferes with the installation of deeper shift knobs (not sure about the factory crush ring). The ring can be removed with a cutoff tool so it resembles other shift levers. Removal and cleanup usually requires repainting the lever.

I would not cut any length off of the FSS lever. Doing so increases the force necessary to shift from gear to gear, e.g. the shorter WM shift lever.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1294114932.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1294115274.jpg

Sherwood

You could thread the shaft and screw on a Hurst knob..
Sorry, couldn't resist, it's late here on the East side.....

Drill chuck is kinda cool actually. very uncomfortable I would assume.

Until I find a permanent replacement, I picked up this knob on sale for $4 at Pep Boys. I have aluminum pedal covers, so it kind of matches, plus I like the nubs. The set screws kept coming loose, but I seem to have fixed that by using a little loctite on the screws and some electrical tape around the shaft. You can see from the boot that I have the Seine Systems gate shift kit, which I can recommend.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1294352988.jpg

Sherwood,

I'm about to replace the center console on our '86 which has the factory short shift, and the leather boot.

Question: Will this appendage on the lever prevent the pulling the console up and over the leather boot and shift rod?

And, how is the leather boot attached to the console?

Thanks in advance.

Gerry

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1294354534.jpg

Not sure I helped much.

Sherwood

Thanks,

Gerry

The "ring" near the top of the short shifter is what the leather boot "rests" against when you put the boot back on and down. Slide it down, and then the lower, wide part of the boot just rests under the console. I've seen pictures of a "draw string" of sorts that pulls the botttom of the leather boot together somewhat, but I think my boot does not have it or it is "loose". No matter, the bottom of my leather just tucks in down there, and only comes out a little (at the back) once a year or so. Easily tucked back in.
The "ring" on the shifter looks right to accept the leather "over it", and then the knob install, so no shortening of the shifter should be necessary...unless one uses just the rubber boot, then it's a matter of choice to shorten it to eliminate the little gap below the stock knob. This is all correct, no?

Sounds like this is a perfect way to apply a sudden force adequate to "knock" it off without cracking the knob. The man with quick hands will catch the thing before it starts bouncing around the cabin! :D I can do this.....
I also wonder if some wraps of cloth tape or similar would be good enough to keep the knob from moving too much instead of using the crush ring; at least for street/daily driving.

on a 85 i bought recently, i needed to get the knob off to install my "long shifter" extension piece. no way i hell was it going to budge. i made a 1/4" plate tool with a cutout that slipped in tight under the knob. wack with big hammer. nothing. get air hammer up under the tool. nothing. crushed the knob with channel-locks and vise gripped the rest off. success! had a spare knob.

did you get your answer... I pulled my 86 and it has/had the leather and the ring....the leather is just tucked in at the bottom and there is a "rubber band" at the top... pull up from the bottom and turn the boot inside out to expose the rubber band....slip the rubber band off and the whole thing comes off the top side

as for the knob it just pulls straight off... I found the best way was to use some plastic prybars to get it started and then slip wrenchs big enough to go over the shaft but not the ring... and apply direct force to the knob... watch out that you dont dent the plastic on the bottom edges... the first time was very uncomfortable but later times I found it to be very easy and I wasnt "yanking" it with the prospect of breaking my tooth or windshield

I had the same success you had... and a spare knob as well... :cool:

I see the need to make a knob puller :cool:

This is the one:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299099483.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299099496.jpg


Excellent quality.

Does this really work?

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/rnwlMiPglWE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Sherwood

wrong end.