PMO Float Gage Hangs up Zenith Float
 

Just got done wasting ~5 hours trying to figure out why I could not get the float level set on my Zeniths. After wasting most of my washers, stinking of gas, I finally concluded, I was missing something basic... A clue: only the bowl with the PMO gage was over filling. :confused:

Problem: The float on the "front" chamber is much closer to the drain hole than the rear float. The PMO gage, when screwed into the drain hole, sticks too far into the float chamber and locks the float in the down position. :mad:

Solution: Add a few more washers between the vial and the float chamber, to keep the threaded brass portion from sticking in too far and touching the float.

Permanent Solution: Cut 1.5-2mm off the end of the brass thread.

Adding insults to injury:

1) I now have to replace all my sealing washers, as they have been reused too many times.

2) I still have to reset all the float levels.

3) I didn't even have to do it in the first place. They were close, and I thought I'd get clever and get them dead-nuts with the super fine 0.25mm PMO washers....

4) Lastly, I was REALLY clever yesterday. Last Fall I used a extra washer (where it turns out I needed it) because the vial contacted the zenith body before it would seat. No issues with setting the float level last August. So just before this debacle, I ground the vial body down so it would clear the body, with only one gasket. Extremely clever of me, no? But, I never expected the added depth on the screw would bottom out on the float! :(

Hope your winter projects are going smoother than mine ;)

I might just be a little bit less of a perfectionist than alot of u guys on here, and I understand that we all want the greatest amount of power from are cars, but, even though the Zeniths are different than the Webers, I think we may be thinking they are way to far different than what they actually are. Alot of people doing these conversions are digging so deep into these cars trying to get the most out of them. Then after all the tweekig and adjusting, they are about where they were at when they started. Like I said, all the work thats being done, with the really minimal results and power gains, seems fruitless at times, but I really do love reading how involved you guys are in getting things perfect...

And if your doing it on a bench (off car) try using a less explosive fluid like dry cleaning solvent instead of gasoline. Cleans the bowls also.

-1 on the less explosive substance.

The float responds to the density of the fuel. If you're using a different fluid, the float displacement will change. Use only the type of gas you intend to run.

It is much easier on the bench. That said, I still had to set mine in the car because that's where the pressure regulator was.

Good luck!

Dan

Hummmm the solvent (********) is the same as gasoline, that's why I recommended it.

I had that thought, somewhere after the tenth time I tried to check the float level.:( What was I trying to get! But, it's a big toy. Sometimes you break your toy, and then you have to fix it....

You do have a good point. There may be a limit, and I am getting close. However, I ported the manifolds, drilled the butterflies. More good ness to come.


I use gas, in the open garage, on concrete. About as safe as I can get. Low chance of fire there. Too much airflow keeps the vapors from building up.

Do a search.....Your not the first,,,
ask me how I know....

Don't get me wrong, I'm pruchasing an O2 sniffer for my car, and I just bought a Compu-tronix coil on plug system for it, so I'm going a little crazy myself, LOL...

Search, what keywords??