1973.5 Ignition Switch Removal Woes

[SHShockley]

OK, after determining that ignition switch was the reason my 911T wouldn't start (everything would power up, lights would work, just no "klick". I could bypass the ignition switch and it would turn over), I embarked on replacing the electrical part of the switch.

After removing the bezel, grinding off the bolt heads, and removing the allen bolt and nut that holds the assembly into the steering column, I still cant get the switch out. I can push/pull it about half way back through the hole in the dash, but not clear of the hole. It's almost like the steering lock won't let it be pushed/pulled straight through the hole, so its binding on the side. Even taps with a mallet don't seem to help.

What am I missing?

[Walter_Middie]

It must move to the left to clear the steering lock. Sometimes it just doesn't seem like it will come out, then all of a sudden it slides out like nothing. I can't explain it - but I have done it a couple of times with the same result.

There have been a lot of ignition switch removal threads lately - do a search for how others accomplished this PITA.

[Scott Douglas]

Have you tried putting the key in it and turning the key to 'release' the steering lock? If I remember correctly on mine, doing this retracted the 'bar' that effectively locks the column.

[ossiblue]

Did you drill out the two rivets that hold the aluminum plate to the dash? It's the plate that the bolts you removed go through. If the plate is still affixed to the dash, you won't have enough play to slide the mechanism a bit to the left because the hole in the plate keeps the ignition key cylinder aligned.

[pete3799]

Originally Posted by ossiblue

Did you drill out the two rivets that hold the aluminum plate to the dash? It's the plate that the bolts you removed go through. If the plate is still affixed to the dash, you won't have enough play to slide the mechanism a bit to the left because the hole in the plate keeps the ignition key cylinder aligned.

^^^This.
Had the same problem.......ended up drilling the rivets to get it out.

[SHShockley]

Thanks. I'll look at drilling the rivets out. And yes, I had tried unlocking the steering column to see if that gave me enough play to get the assembly out. It didn't seem to make any difference.

What do you replace the rivets with? Should I re-rivet it, or use bolts?

[pete3799]

I re-riveted it.

[SHShockley]

Got it out, after drilling out the rivets. Now I've just got to get it all back together! Thanks for the help!

[Joe Bob]

Cruddy job,,,done it before. Did you ever consider just putting in a push button?

[LakeCleElum]

Originally Posted by Joe Bob

Cruddy job,,,done it before. Did you ever consider just putting in a push button?

I agree Joe....On my 73.5, after doing it a few times, I not longer put the lock back in the steering column. Rotate it all about 45 degrees and it's now a snap to remove if I have to........

[SHShockley]

No, I didn't think about just putting in a push button. I'm hoping that this isn't going to be a recurring problem!

Bob S.- Your idea of rotating the lock 45 degrees is intriguing. Is there any downside- other than the obvious lack of steering lock?

[LakeCleElum]

Originally Posted by SHShockley

No, I didn't think about just putting in a push button. I'm hoping that this isn't going to be a recurring problem!

Bob S.- Your idea of rotating the lock 45 degrees is intriguing. Is there any downside- other than the obvious lack of steering lock?

Nope, had it that way 6 or 7 years....Pulled the switch several times chasing down wiring problems. Very easy to pull this way, did it recently when my keys were stolen in Mexico and I had to take the switch in to have a key made....

[cmcfaul]

Just did the same thing a couple times. Big PITA and a back breaker. Hopefully it's not the stalk as they are like $700. If it's just the ignition switch, there are two versions. Aftermarket failed for me after a couple months. Highly recommend the OEM.

Chris
73 911 e