Question about gaskets, permatex, sump strainer oil leak

[joehahn]

While doing my accelerator linkage bushings (bell crank?) last night (which was really easy and makes an unbelievable difference!) I got a good look at my usual oil leak.

I am convinced that during my last oil change, when I forgot one of the "2" gaskets, I overtorqued the sump cover plate and perhaps caused seepage even with both gaskets installed. I believe this to be the case because there is always a drip or two of oil at the ends of a few of the threads of the screws holding the plate on. If you are familiar with this plate you will know that due to the "flange" or "lip" of the plate it would be difficult if not impossible for oil that did not originate there to jump over the lip and rest on the bottom of the plate (this is difficult to explain via typing!).

My question is this; can I use my usual 2 gaskets and load it up with permatex as well? I thought I read that if you use this gasket sealer you don't use the gaskets??? Can I use 4 gaskets instead of 2 and simply crank the tar out of it? I am at a loss but I am quite sure that there is seepage from around the plate.

Thank you,

Joe 68L (now with smooth throttle response!)

[Rot 911]

Joe your leaks might be caused from previous "over torquing". You can see the results of this when you take the cover plate off. Each of the holes will be dimpled on one side and raised up on the other side. You can carefully flatten these back out and just using the correct number of gaskets (2) and correct torque on the nuts fix your leak.

Kurt V
72 911E

[joehahn]

....how do I flatten the plate back out?

[Jdub]

To flatten, use a hockey puck or equiv. under the section you will hammer down gently with a metal hammer.

Dress, with sandpaper, any sharpness of edges, etc. that you encounter.

Jw

[Early_S_Man]

Joe,

When you remove the plate and attempt to fix the leak, I suggest looking at the plate and inspect the metal around all eight of the holes for the 6 mm studs. I suspect you will find dents or bulges caused by overtightening the nuts! These can be pounded flat with a mallet or hammer, then carefully dressed with a file. What I have done on my original plate and a spare is braze oversize diameter washers to the underside of the plate to strengthen that flange area ... the washers are not quite as thick as the plate material, so the metal thickness at each of the stud locations is about 1.75-1.8 times the original. The 6 mm studs in the case are just long enough to handle the extra thickness. No leaks.

In your case, if you just hammer out the dents and make the plate flat again, I think the regular two gaskets is the way to go. Some red spray Permatex probably wouldn't hurt, or even Loctite 518 on the gaskets might help preclude future leaks. I recommend using a 1/4" drive torque wrench set to 7 lb-ft on those nylock nuts. Too much torque just causes too many problems!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa