Weber problem
 

I measured my float levels and need to correct 3 of the 4.

1. Two of the needle valve plugs are really tight and because they are brass, the wrench or socket is coming close to stripping the plug. Any suggestions on how to remove them?

2. Where do the adjusting washers go? There is a fiber washer between the needle valve and the carb body. Does the adjusting washer go above or below the fiber washer?

3. Should I replace the washer under the plug?



Thanks,

Rob

Rob,

Those brass caps are notorious for stripping. With the carb solidly secured, give your wrench a sharp strike to break it free. If you find the hex stripping badly, stop and get some more grip on it. May have to resort to vise grips. When you get it off you can purchase new ones from PMO or Performance Oriented.

The washer under the plug is the same size as a drain plug washer for a 911 oil tank. Unless your washer is really mashed, you can reuse it. However a new washer gives you just the right amount of crush w/out overtightening the plug.

The adjusting washers for the needle goes between the needle valve and the carb body. You don't need to keep the fiber one but it's OK if you do. The important thing is to get the stack at the right height which will set your needle to the desired position = the float lever closes the valve and you're in the right range on the vial.

The secret to the 16mm plugs is a properly modified tool. Most sockets and wrenches have a rounded profile to facilitate easily installing the wrench on normal nuts/bolt heads. The problem is that the soft brass caps are too short and you only engage the top lip of the cap due to the rounded profile.

Take a 16mm socket. Grind the front edge until the "round" section of the profile is gone. Now that your socket can sit flush with the flats on the brass cap it should easily come off.

Last ditch resort after the above solutions have been tried, take the tops off the carbs and put the brass bolts on a bench vise and use the tops for leverage. These suckers can be really frozen sometimes.

JPNovak has the right path but I go a different one; I use a 6-point, boxed-end wrench that I straightened the 15 degree bend (by heating) to eliminate the twist-off effect. I do grind the side that goes over the hex until the radius is GONE to get as much engagement as possible. If this fails you can remove the cover (after a soak in Liquid Wrench) and apply propane heat to the aluminum body and try again, 240 degrees F isn't a problem. If this fails you can try a cold chisel and try to drive off without scarring the aluminum. If this fails, take it you a machinist and have them mill off the hex, center on the inside diameter and drill out the body, leaving the threads to pick out.

Same theory but perhaps less risky is trying some loctite freezenlube on the bolts. Get em good and cold, good and quick. The brass contracts and with some quick but precise work you can turn them out with a socket. Grinding the socket back as described above so your socket has the best grip may also help.

Thanks for all of your input. I never would have thought that this "little" problem would be such a PITA. I'm waiting to receive some new plugs before I plunge into what looks like a major project.

Rob

Another problem has occurred. When I installed a new plug and alum crush washer over the needle and seat hole, it leaks when the fuel pressure is applied.
It didn't leak before. Any ideas?

Rob