Pimped out enclosed trailers?
 

I am looking for ideas for the interior of a 20' enclosed trailer. Used primarily to pull the car to DEs and as a portable garage. Maybe a little work bench and some shelving for bins? Also need to bring extra wheels/tires and a 30" wide rolling tool box.

How do you attach interior shelving to the walls? How much can it hold?

Pics would be awesome!

Thanks!

I have these cabinets in the front of my 26 foot trailer...

Storage/ work surface.. and I integrated a a 55 gallon fuel cell..

I think a 20 foot trailer is to short for any sort of work bench low mounted cabinets..

If you mount things high, just make sure you fasten to to the studs

Also get some e-track.. you can get creative securing things

I keep mine simple, here it is with my Golf in it. I plywooded the interior painted it white, Rhino lined the floor and part way up the sides, I can power wash it when needed. Movable tire rack so to balance it for different cars. And Pit Pal gas can bin, helmet/suit and gear hanger. The rest rolls in as needed in front of the car. Mine is 22' and gets crowded fast.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1296875380.jpg

Terry

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...000/009-12.jpg


mine is not "pimped out" by any means. It's a pretty basic 24' trailer with a finished interior.
Has: lights, tire rack, pitpal accessories for fuel jugs, fire extinguisher, various hooks

Needs: a/c and heat (yea right!), workbench, shelves, vice, etc.

Mine wasn't pimped out either.....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1296883051.jpg

I use these guys (Pit Posse) for my interior accessories, less expensive than Pitpal but quality just as good:
FOLD UP TIRE RACK

I have two of their fold up tire racks, mounted above each wheel well for good weight distribution, screwed into the studs. Each one holds for of my wheels/tires.
Also have one of their fuel jug 3-jug holders mounted just inside the rear door on the right.
Have one of the oil can/ aerosol can/ paper towel units to mount on the inside of the door. Haven't gotten to mounting it yet.
My trailer is a v-nose so I have simple shelving mounted in the V, one shelf 14" off the floor and the second is 42" off the floor like a countertop. On the floor under the first shelf is my winch, and I have Rubbermaid storage containers that fit under there with the heavy spares, and extra tie down straps. Helmet bags, and other Rubbermaid tubs with parts and pieces go on top of the first shelf. The top shelf is for my stuff at the track like helmet, laptop etc.

I have e-track on the floor under the front tires for my wheel nets over both front tires. I also have e-track down the left side wall to strap taller items in place if needed, like fold up canopy.

If I could get to the trailer I'd take pics, but there's a snow drift about 5' up the right side and a good 24" all around it from our recent snow storm. Might be a while before it gets out.

Did you do the Rhino on the floor or have it done? I'm considering doing the same thing over the plywood floor. If you did it, how much work was involved?

Wow. Tim, your shelving units cost more than I paid for my trailer!!

Thanks for the ideas guys. I think I will use a little from each one. I really like the e-track. And the rhino lining idea.

I bought the 20' so I could not get too much in it. It is only for DEs, not racing. Some simple tools, tires and shelving should do the trick. For now!

what about a winch? anybody have any ideas how to mount one?

for a 911, should I back it in? i am worried about the trailer being too tail heavy.

you can easily mount a winch. I would get an electric winch and connect it to a 12V battery which is grounded to the trailer. Make sure the load rating exceeds the weight of your car.....the load capacity decreases as the length of winch cable increases.

just drive the car straight in. as long as you don't hang out to much over the rear end, your weight distribution should be fine. for a 20' trailer, your car will be over the rear axles.

175K911.....I rhino lined (actually it was Herculiner) my plywood rear door and fold down ramp. bought the Herculiner kit from Autozone, mixed it up and went to town. 1 gallon covered my 8x8' door plus the fold down ramp.

My door is heavy, I would prefer to use aluminum diamond plate instead.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...000/008-12.jpg

I've got a 3,000 lb winch mounted in the nose of the trailer, 35' of cable. It's bolted through the 3/4" plywood floor with stainless bolts, and I cut 1/4" steel plates for underneath the floor to spread the load of the 4 bolts that hold it down. Got it from Harbor Freight when they had it on sale. And it has a wireless remote control so I can actually operate it from inside the car. But I've only used is once, when the car had no engine/trans in it.

By the time you load up the front of the trailer with "stuff" you'll find that you won't want to back your car in for weight distribution. In fact I bet if you're not careful you'll find you can add a lot of tongue weight if not careful.

Ed.....how does your 3000lb winch handle pulling the car inside the trailer and up an incline?

I was under the impression I need a 5-7K lb winch.

This is my old trailer.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1296919069.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1296919130.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1296919238.jpg

911
 

Like the B/W checker floors in both trailers
Was that standard with the trailer or did you have it installed later?
If installed later........source??? cost/sq ft?
My trailer needs a new floor

All depends on the winch. My winch is 3,000 lbs, but that's it's rating when pulling a dead weight. It's 5,500 rolling stock and I think 6,500 marine pull (meaning when pulling a boat across the water.

My car only weighs 2450 so even if I had no wheels on it and needed to drag it onto the trailer, the 3000 rating would be sufficient. I've pulled a 3200 lb 951 with no problem at all.

So check the ratings of the winch and see whether the published weight capacity is dead weight or rolling weight.

thanks Ed.

I got my trailer flooring at Trailer Parts, trailer tires, trailer accessories, trailer hitches, trailer axles, trailer fenders, trailer wheels, led trailer lights, trailer brakes, utility trailer parts, and more

It was reasonably cheap ($200 for a 28'x8' roll) but it's vinyl and not very durable. If you want something durable you should look at industrial flooring or cointop flooring. Much more $$ but also much more durable and less prone to galling/pitting from rocks on the tires

I got my floor (2nd trailer bigger tiles) at Home Depot for .99 a tile. Cheapest place I could find. It's the peel and stick 12x12 tile. You mess one up you can pull it out and replace just the one. I think it was 175 tiles but it's a 24 foot trailer

Back tothe Rhino Liner
 

A buddy of mine had a franchise and I swapped some CCTV equipment for it. I used mine to transport,sometimes leave at a track overnight but not live or entertain in so function over appearance. I was fortunate never to need but a winch would have been the only other option to add. You never know what can happen at the track or a new acquisition might need the assist for you or a helping another.

Terry

Make sure you paint your telephone #...full length on the top!!
It will help the police track it down if stolen.
Bob

FWIW, I had called my local Rhino dealer and left a message. Got a call back last evening. He said they have done a couple of trailers- entire floor and about a foot up the sides, including the ramp door. Would be about $1,000. But the number he threw out that really bothered me was that it would add between 600 and 800 lbs to the weight of the trailer. That's a lot of extra weight to tow around, and really reduces the payload capacity of the trailer a lot too.