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Bad barrel nut at starter

This is the stud of the starter that doesn't connect to the engine.
The barrel nut is in bad shape. Since I had the engine and transmission out
I thought this was a good time to replace the nut. I wasn't sure I could get it
off, but after gracious application of PB Blaster it did.
Just the stud came off with it.

Does anything speak against just using a bolt instead?

Also, this is the side that is easier to reach from underneath the car.

Thanks.

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Old 02-13-2011, 07:54 PM
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No problem using a bolt, or a stud and a nut, or stud and a new barrel nut, or a allen bolt.
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Old 02-13-2011, 08:03 PM
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So many choices!

I will definitely not take another barrel nut.
The bolt sounds good to me.

Thanks James.
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Old 02-14-2011, 01:24 PM
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I think a small diameter nut will also work (will take a 15mm wrench instead of a 17mm).
Old 02-14-2011, 01:38 PM
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Agreed about the small dia. (jam) nut. Small dia. nuts are used on the bellhousing forthe same reason- clearance. The barrel nut is used because of the tight proximity of the stud to the bell housing. You could grind away a slight amount of the bellhousing material to get good clearance for your nut & wrench, otherwise you might have to use a thin wall socket.

BTW I think a cylinder head nut is the same as this starter nut. Agree the allen bolt is the way to go. I think the bolts in the front strut mount are the same M10 size. Should be able to get a black 12.9 M10 allen bolt at your local hardware store if they have a good selection of metric. I got a few longer M10 for the front struts from my local Ace Hardware when I needed a longer one to attach a strut bar to that location.
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Old 02-14-2011, 01:50 PM
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they are the same as the exhaust barrel nuts/cylinder nuts. Frugal!
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Old 02-14-2011, 02:03 PM
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Exhaust nuts are M8. I thought trans studs (and that starter stud) are M10?
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Old 02-14-2011, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTL View Post
Exhaust nuts are M8. I thought trans studs (and that starter stud) are M10?
That's correct.
Old 02-14-2011, 02:58 PM
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What happens here is usually one of two possibilities.

Most common is some PO left off the flat washer and the Schnorr washer.
This let the nut go farther on the stud, causing the stud to prevent full engagement of the Allen wrench hex.

This flat washer is unique to the engine-to-transmission attachment.
The OD is barely more than the OD of the barrel nut.


The other possibility is common on magnesium transmission cases.
Someone over-torques the fastener, pulling the threads in the mag case.
This allows the stud to again interfere with the Allen wrench hex.

Add rust and old age and the Allen wrench does not have enough purchase to loosen the barrel nut without ‘camming-over’ in the hex.

If you reassemble everything as Porsche delivered it new, it will work just fine.

Using the M10 nut with the 15 mm wrench feature is not a good solution.
Many 15 mm sockets will interfere with the starter motor.
This is absolutely the case with the 1.5 hp starter.

Best,
Grady
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Old 02-14-2011, 03:01 PM
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