Front suspension rebuild all most complete

[Craig Stevens]

Well, The turbo tie rods are in. SmartRacing Bump Steer
kit,Camber balls,bushings,new ball joints complete. Just one problem!!! The ride height. I installed the torsion bars in the a-arm, then connected the a-arm to the bottom of the ball joint. I believe installing the torsion bar first ,(even though I did not install the end adjusting cap till later) put to much load on the torsion bar & elevated the ride height way to high. So, I am not sure weather to undo the a-arm at the ball joint & pull the torsion bar out to readjust,or pull the end caps off the torsion bars,drive them out of the splines & start over. Leave it to me to screw up a simple job! Any suggestions? Thanks, Craig

[pbs911]

I don't know why you would have to take the ball joint off to R&R the torsion bar. Just undue the adjusted and it will pull right out. You may have to wggle it a little, but it will come right out. That's what I did, unless I'm missing something . . . which isn't uncommon.

[Craig Stevens]

The adjusting cap on the end of the torsion bar is wedged against the top of the of the cross member & won't pry off. that's why I am trying to decide how to readjust. Craig

[nhromyak]

Oh never mind...

[Clark Griswald]

Craig,

The way to do this is attached the ball joint to the control arm before installing the tbar adjuster cap. Doesn't matter if the tbar is in or not, just the cap.

Sounds like you put the cap on, then attached the ball joint. In which case you may have put enough tension on the adjuster cap that it is now wedged. If you can't pry it off, you will need to disconnect the ball joint, get the cap off, reconnect the ball joint, and put the cap back.

No big deal. Otherwise it sounds like you are on track.

[Craig Stevens]

Thanks for the help. When I installed the new bushings on the a-arm,I installed the a-arm,slid the torsion bar in the a-arm,then I connected the a-arm to the bottom of the ball joint. I had to jack up the a-arm to get it to seat to the bottom of the ball joint. I did not have the adjusting cap on the end of the torsion bar installed at this time. There are also splines on the front of the a-arm that I believe were put under a load when I jacked up the a-arm in order to get the nut on the bottom of the ball joint. When I tried to adjust the height,it was way to high. Then I removed the adjusting bolt , the end cap on the torsion bar was wedged aginst the top of the crossmember, My question is, do I have to drive the front of the torsion bar out of the front spline to unload th pressure that I created when I reassembled the a-arm to the ball joint incorrectly inorder to get the lower height that I am looking for,or if I undo the nut in the ball joint will it release the pressure on the end cap off so I can remove it to readjust. Even if I do get the end cap off should I drive the torsion bar out of the front splines to relieve the extra load that I created be installing the torsion bar in the a-arm before connecting to the ball joint. I am doing my best to explain the problem that I am having. Sorry if I am confusing every one. Craig

[Clark Griswald]

So you installed the adjuster caps after attaching the ball joints?

Then you should be able to pop off those adjuster caps. When they come off, your tbars will have no tension at all.

When you say the adjuster caps are wedged, is it the round of the cap or the lever-arm of the cap?

If it is the round, you have a problem with those new bushings. If it is the lever arm, you just need to get those caps off and re-index them.

Can you take a picture?

[Jdub]

Craig and others:

I don't understand how there can be any tension on the A-arm if the rearside A-arm adjusting cap/bolt is not installed. That is, I would have thought that the A-arm with tbar installed would be moveable without tension other than that caused by the friction caused by the A-arm bushings you put in.

I am very interested in knowing from where the tension is coming. And I have a feeling I have a big Doh! coming when y'all tell me...

John

[pbs911]

Sounds like if you remove the ball joint it will relieve any preload on the torsion bar. (I believe you preloaded thetorsion bar by jacking up the a-arm to connect the ball joint, right?) I would remove the ball joint, which will allow the a-arm to drop to where the torsion bar has no preload, pull out the torsion bar and reconnect the entire a-arm sans torsion bar. After the arm and ball joint are all connected, I would then install the torsion bar.

If the torsion bar is under preload I would not try and drive it out. You would possibly damage the torsion bar, if not something else.

Hope this helps.

[Craig Stevens]

Thanks Chuck, It's the lever part of the cap that's wedged against the crossmember. I will remove the nut on the bottom of the ball joint to let the a-arm drop down to releave the load on the cap so I can remove it. I was worried that the splines on the front of the a-arm might still be under a load even if I removed the adjusting cap. I believe that I will have my wrench do the rear suspension,& allignment. I feel that if you are going to own a Porsche working on it is half the fun of ownership,to a point. My wife is starting to demand equal time. What can I say. Craig

[Craig Stevens]

Thanks Paul, I agree, I will disassemble the reassembe correctly. Thanks again Craig

[marcesq]

Equal time JUST SAY NO !!!