cis gurus
 

hello,
just changed the plug wires to beru braided and replaced cap rotor etc. i also found a weak fuel line and replaced a fuel line from the warm up reg to fuel dist. car was sitting for about a week.
tried to fire it up but it wont start...starts then dies or wont start at all. ..a little popping/backfire ......... seems as timing is off.
checked the plug routing and all is correct, rotor points to the 5 degree mark etc.
what am i missing ?
thanks for your help, ben

pics of the 56 nomad?

does your car have a pop off valve? is it stuck open, or coming up off the airbox?

how about lifting the air sensor plate a tad, to prime the motor and fire it up? i would do this, and then yank an injector to see if it even sprays.

What car/engine? Remember, 3.0 distributors turn counter-clockwise. All others clockwise.

Also, sometimes it seems like youve got the plug end of the wire on the plug, but you may not. Gotta get that obvious "click."

What Vash said.
Probably air in the line.....prime it with the sensor plate

Double check your plug wires. Make sure they are in the right order on the distributor cap.

hi ,
sorry forgot to mention its 1983 sc. lifted the sensor plate checked the plug wire routing etc. ..still wont start. do i need to hold it open or lift it a few times? would air in the system cause it to start and run slow then stop?.
do the braided wires need to be grounded some place other than the fan shroud area?
thanks , ben

Check the firing order.
counter clockwise rotation distributor on the SC. But you probably already know that.

If it starts and actually fires up, then dies over the next couple of seconds, then it's something else.
Can you in any way keep it limping along by manually running the throttle linkage?

1) o2 sensor relay
2) CDI connection/fuse
3) Green Distributor Wire
4) fuel pump relay
5) Loose plug wire as was mentioned
so many things that would let it run for a few seconds, instead of just preventing it from firing up at all.

hi,
i will check the distributor wire to verify no cracks etc. at first it would fire and die now no fire-up just cranking. opened up the flap inside the air-box a few times here a whirling sound...i do smell a little gas like its flooded so maybe no spark, dont have my wife at home to help so i will have to wait to pull a plug to check for fire at that side.. thanks for the input, ben

Could be flooded too :)

I did a bunch of upgrades to my ignition a few months ago, and ended up spending some time chasing gremlins like that.
"How could there be problems, everything's new!"

Well, you end up bumping wires and relays and such when in there, and sometimes your elbow just hits the wrong thing.

The #6 plug (deepest right side) is always the hardest to click, put that on your short list. however, the engine should run even with one wire popped off.

My cis instructions say to hold the sensor plate up with the key on to prime the system.I can't remember how long I think 3 seconds or so, you will here a change in the sound ,too long and you will flood. I think your car is starting briefly from the cold start valve.

Did you car run "ok" before you changed the wires?

hello,
PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!!!!!! after tracing and retracing i found the culprit... a cracked wire off the coil...replaced end and it fired on the first click, now to see if it solved the popping/low rpm when cold.
one thing at a time...and no rain today!
thanks to all for responding, ben

My 81 putted for over a year at idle - warm and cold both. Changed exhaust gaskets among other attempts. No dice. It was a loose intake runner to head intake port sucking air.

Guess who changed a bunch of gaskets and seals when the transmission was out right beforehand?

I used starting fluid to find it while the car was running. Carb cleaner works and is not as flammable.

hello,
my popping just started a week ago , only when cold and drop in rpms,
get that little pop at low rpms when i rev it up i and after its warm no issues so we will see what transpires.....would a vacuum leak cause the above mentioned issues? will the carb cleaner cause any problems with the electrical or rubber hoses?
regards, ben

good!!

now post up pics of the Nomad!! one of my favorite cars!!

Yes a vacuum leak could cause that. I had two vacuum leaks. Fixed one and the putting backfire remained. Fixed the leak on the intake runner base and the issue disappeared.

I prefer starting fluid as it evaporates right away. I don't use carb cleaner for the same concerns as you.

However, there are different types of carb cleaner and my mental image is of the stuff in a gallon can that you dip the parts in. That stuff will eat you alive. I believe the spray carb cleaner evaporates quickly like starting fluid and should be ok.

vash,
the nomad is one of mine as well.... i will post when i get the garage cleaned out out ..but for now crocus yellow and black original interior....i like old iron,come to think of it the 83's old as well (LOL) ben

bob , thanks i will give it a try.....o.t. what are the colors of the vac lines is the red one for advance , regards, ben