Engine Stand for Engine Reseal?
 

In the next two months, I'm going to be dropping my engine. The main purpose is to install the 915 that I rebuilt about two years ago. (Yes, I would have loved to install it two years ago, but life has been busy.)

Anyway, while I have the engine out, I'm going to be tracking down some oil leaks and replacing some of the seals for the CIS system.

I don't currently have an engine stand. Obviously I don't need one for the transmission swap and clutch replacement. I'm thinking I probably don't need one for replacing seals and cleaning either. I don't think I need to get to the bottom of the engine for anything (unless I find an oil return tube leaking).

So do I need an engine stand?

Probably not. Return tubes you can do in the car as well. Its a really nice thing to have though :) But, you have to buy the adapter as well so there is an added cost. Perhaps you can borrow one from a local Pelican.

If you do buy one, get one with 2 legs in a U shape and not the T shaped one. Its a few more $s, but much more stable and you can drive the engine right up the middle with the jack.

Best regards,

Michael

What you don't need is a engine yoke. a normal engine stand will do as long as you do not split the case.

That's my other concern. I don't want the headache of trying to get the engine from the ATV jack to the stand. Unless it's like you say. I have the red Craftsman ATV jack. It max's out at 16 1/2" I think. Is that enough height to get it onto the stand?

I guess if I go that route and get a stand but no yoke, then I would have to remove the flywheel and replace the rear flywheel seal prior to putting it on the stand. Correct? I thought I read that it wasn't good to put the engine on the stand using the universal mount. I thought it put stresses on the engine case. Is that incorrrect?

No you will be fine. it normally hangs from the 4 mounts 2 at the trans and two at the rear. the trans mount to the engine is strong enough. The engine is wide that's the reason for the wide engine stand like the cheap ones at harbor freight.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1298567426.jpg
this pic shows a engine on a standard 4 post engine stand

Ok. So I can forgo the yoke (which is a good savings, although you can get an aftermarket one on ebay for about $ 105.)

If I get an engine stand like this:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1298568422.jpg

Will I be able to roll my ATV jack in between the legs and lift the engine right up to the mount? Is 16 1/2" lift enough?

I don't know, maybe several guys can help picking up the engine and slide it on the stand? Also, the cheap yokes on ebay, usually have 3 ribs, are not strong enough for the engine. Use the 5 rib one if you ever want to get one the entire weight of the engine is supported by 1/2 of the engine case. You don't want anything cracking or shearing off just as you get the new engine back together!

I'm usually alone...so I need to be able to lift the engine on the stand solo. I guess I'll figure it out when I get to that point. I just like to have a plan at least.

Yes. I agree with you on the yoke. They make 3, 4, and 5 arm supports now.

PORSCHE VW 5 ARM ENGINE STAND YOKE "THE ORIGINAL" - eBay (item 180630699697 end time Mar-05-11 08:44:06 PST)

16 1/2" isn't high enough. The transmission is about 100 lbs, the engine is mid 400 lbs. Some people have a picker, some use chain hoist, some use friends that like beer.

I read this thread when I was pondering the same question. I ultimately purchased a hoist that was attached to an I-beam in my garage. This engine stand (craigslist) isn't a straight T or a U, but I found it stable. I bought a Mainley Engine Stand Adapter Ring (fleaBay) that bolts to the universal engine stand bolts. It worked fine, but there isn't as much clearance between the stand and the case as there is with a more expensive yoke, so I needed to remove the flywheel first.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/562058-engine-floor-jack-engine-stand-how.html


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1298568555.jpg

I think the yoke your are looking at on eBay just has flat stock (metal) at the edge of the ribs. Look at the Manley Adapter, you can see it is contoured to the exact shape of the case. (Click on button that says "Photo") I am not advocating Manley, just a point of comparison. I would confirm with the eBay seller if the mounting point of the case is flat stock or contoured. If it's flat, it may not be a good idea to use.

Nice set-up there Greg. As you can see Matt, there is a lot of expensive things that can get damaged if the stand fails. Over built is a good thing!

I saw your photo in another thread when I was searching on this topic. I wish I had a steel beam in my garage like you, as I would do exactly the same thing. I had contemplated attaching something to the ceiling joists in my garage. But after doing some quick engineering, I cancelled that plan.

I've already made the 24" x 24" wood platform that others have used to attach to the ATV jack. I think that may add some height. Does anyone know how high you need to get the bottom of the engine up to reach the lift?

Yes. It is flat. Is that no good?

That eBay one is for VW's and 356's not 911's. They are considerably heavier engines.

James and I disagree on the yoke part, but you can get away without the yoke if you are not splitting the case. I just don't advise it, personally.

The ATV jacks are too short. I have a floor jack that runs almost 17" and its too short. I need at least 3-4 pieces of wood to get it up far enough for the mount to slip in the stand receiver. If all you have is the ATV jack you may have trouble pulling the engine out, though I have never tried it with just an ATV jack. I would guess you need a height of 20-22" with no wood... not many jacks go that high.

-Michael

I can measure it this Saturday since I am pulling mine. It will vary based on your set up, but I would say that the center of the crank to the bottom of the heat exchanger is about 10 inches. Add that to your 16 1/2 gets you to 26ish. The center of my stand was about 31 or 32. The good news is you probably only have about 5 or 6 inches to go. The bad news is they are really tough inches to travel.

If you are working alone, be extra, extra safe. A a cracked case, a broken foot or even something worse is not worth the $100 you saved by not buying a piece of equipment.

You can pull the engine with the ATV. Disconnect everything but the four main bolts, then set the car at a height low enough for the ATV stand to support at least some of the engine weight. You will see it move in the bay. Disconnect the four bolts. Lower the engine all the way down. Jack the car up for adequate clearance. I like to remove my bumper and skirt so the rear of the car isn't at perilous heights.

Michael, I agree! if it is me doing this, I would have the correct yoke installed and a heavy duty engine stand, and a chain hoist and the ATV jack. But you can do it if just for cleaning and sealing, quickly!

James

As you know, I thought it was going to be quick... But, the famous while you are in there creep-up, so I'm glad that I got this;

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1298594757.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1298594912.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1298594793.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1298594834.jpg

Show off. LOL. I have neither the space or funds for that lift. My next house definitely.

What is that last picture? It looks like an engine on top of an atv jack on top of a hyd table.