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Outstanding!
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It only took me 14 months, but I finally found the wires that should have been connected to my oil level sending unit. In the process of installing a rear tow hook, I had to remove the rear bumper. The wires were zip-tied to the right rear bumper shock. Once I figured out what they were, I cleaned them up, tested for voltage, and hooked them up to the oil level sending unit.
Wow! It is now registering 1/2, which is so much better than the constant FULL I was getting before. |
Congrats!
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It seems that when I looked at it, unless the coiled wire (that provides the level through the amount of resistance) is broken, they are very salvageable. Given the price of a new one, I'd try to salvage it regardless!
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Heck,why not, I would, just get a new cork seal and re-check the seal after torquing, I had to re-torque a bit more then spec to keep it from weeping/sweating
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Repair of damaged resistor wires
My contribution: Oil level gage flicked between full and empty. Searched the BBS and found this thread (excellent) Removed the sender, and took it apart per the first post, and found the sweeping contact nub has worn down the resistor wires, and wore through the second wrap.
I was able to solder the worn out wires together, and re-establish continuity in the resistor circuit. I loaded the tip of my soldering pen with a little bit of solder, then pressed it against the wires to transfer the solder to the wires, and bridge the gap. I think this will work for a while, but the process of wearing through will continue. Eventually, it will have to be replaced, but not for a while! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1375056891.jpg |
Quick update: works great! Oil level at idle matches the dip stick.
The rebuild tutorial was very helpful. I reset the wiper pressure and the gage is much more stable. Plus the repair to the wire is holding. |
Sender unit and gage testing
My gage was working but would bounce around a bit. Then I changed the oil and it would register sometimes and others not at all, just sitting at the lowest level. After the oil change and while cleaning the underneath of the car I cleaned of the outside of the sending unit as it was caked with oil and dirt. Also found that the PO did a poor job of crimping on new spade connectors and the wires just pulled right out. I crimped on new connectors and used heat shrink on them. Reconnected them and now I have nothing? I checked the voltage at the wires going to the sending unit with the key on and get 8.08 volts and with he wires disconnected I get 140.3 ohms at the sending unit with the oil level around the mid mark on the dipstick or just a bit below. Any ideas on what else to check? I'd pull out the sending unit, but need to order a new gasket first.
Thanks |
okay,
When you wrote "I have nothing" do you mean after the reconnect your gauge pegged all the way up? or sat at low level? |
Gage sits at the bottom of the scale and doesn't move. Also noticed today that my tach isn't reading much, only goes up to about 2k rpm. Thinking maybe I have some ground issues?
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That is what the Gauge is supposed to read when cold. If it was pegged all the way up past the hash marks then you have a bad ground.
As far as the tach, that is not related, if you had a bad ground that would not register at all. But in saying this it never hurts to check the ground points behind the gauges. Simply pull the clock or fuel gauge then reach in and push out the suspect gauge and clean and polish the neg ground connector. CAUTION, make sure before remove the gauges to disconnect battery at neg side as not to short the gauge wiring out. Jim |
Very helpful Thanks
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Working now
Jim, thanks for the information. It is working correctly. Prior to changing the oil and repairing the connectors my gage would read in the middle, but bounced around all over the place with the oil level on the dip stick about 1/4 the way between the marks. After changing the oil and repairing the connectors with the same oil level the gage would sit at the bottom, so was thinking something was wrong with it. I went and drove it this morning and got it nice and warm and the needle started to creep off the bottom. I added about 1/4 of a quart of oil and the level is now about at the middle on the dip stick and oil gage. It's fun learning all of the intricacies of these cars. :)
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Outstanding, now go enjoy your baby :-)
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Great thread ! I need to do this to mine as well. One question that i didn't see asked about lifting the car. OP says to lift just the right side of the car which would put the oil level away from the opening. I have access to a lift. will that matter ? - not having the oil on the far side of the tank ?
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Oh no it will not but if your oil is full when hot it may come out so do this when oil is low when hot. Basically, time it so you do not top off let cool off over night or just do the service on an oil change interval.
I'm a cheap basturd and did not want to waste my oil. :eek: |
So done cold, i'll be alright. ?
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Yes, you should be if level is low.
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Draco,
Can't thank you enough for the input/ tutorial on THE OLSU, The description on how to remove it was worth it's weight in gold. I Had to read your instructions again after the first try, But the second try produced that aha aha moment. On the first go around I did not remove the dip stick .I'm not sure if that was causing interference getting it out,but once it was out ,everything was like a walk in the park. My OLSU issue was a simple gasket replacement procedure, Of course with the rubber one, not the old school cork gasket. I am guessing, but I believe the fine black particles in my last oil filter (which cut open to inspect it )were actually pieces of cork that fell into the oil tank when I tried to stop the leak by tightening the five 8mm nuts on the cover plate. This was a mistake, But hopefully the filter caught everything and I don't have small pieces of cork trying to get through the oil galleys, Or even worse,plugging them up . THANKS AGAIN |
You are most Welcome Brother, yeah I don't like the cork gasket either :-(. I understand for gas but for oil, hmmm :-/
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